Knocking / rattling inside primary drive case + backfire

L.A.B. said:
To clarify, are you saying at TDC the apparently correct rotor timing mark was the one off to the left of the timing scale as you seem to be saying the same thing twice?
Click to expand...
Yes, when I looked through the timing scale hole with the engine at compression TDC the timing mark that I thought was the correct one was off to the left as I believe it should be. My rotor also has degree marks near to one of its two timing marks, which is the other bit I was talking about.

So, to clarify, you rotated the crankshaft backwards (clockwise from TDC in the opposite direction to the normal crank rotation when viewed from the primary side) until the nearest alternator rotor mark (should be to the left) of the timing scale at TDC aligned with 28/31 degrees (BTDC) at which point the Wassell rotor mark should have aligned with 'A' on the Wassell stator but was getting on for 90 camshaft degrees (thus 180 crankshaft degrees) off, however, it apparently ran like that so it must have been set closer to correct before you repositioned the Wassell rotor as it certainly won't start if the timing is now many degrees out.
Click to expand...
No, from this compression TDC position with the timing mark off to the left I rotated the crank ANTI-clockwise until the timing mark came all the way around again. I did this because I thought I was supposed to move the crank in the direction of operation. Sounds like this was incorrect and is the reason that I'm out? Have I timed to Bottom Dead Centre?
 
M-Hawk said:
No, from this compression TDC position with the timing mark off to the left I rotated the crank ANTI-clockwise until the timing mark came all the way around again. I did this because I thought I was supposed to move the crank in the direction of operation. Sounds like this was incorrect and is the reason that I'm out? Have I timed to Bottom Dead Centre?
Click to expand...

Yes, if you rotated the crank anticlockwise from TDC then the first rotor timing mark to line up with the scale would be the wrong 180 crank degrees out timing mark so the Wassell rotor position would then be approximately 90 degrees out.
 
L.A.B. said:
Yes, if you rotated the crank anticlockwise from TDC then the first rotor timing mark to line up with the scale would be the wrong 180 crank degrees out timing mark so the Wassell rotor position would then be approximately 90 degrees out.
Click to expand...

Ah, that explains (at least some of) it then. Thanks. I'll re-do it and report back.
 
Also, with my newly acquired boroscope (which is awesome by the way!) I decided to double check the fuel tank. Last time I flushed it, I couldn't really see inside.

Looks like the lining of the tank has gone. I think it's an Indian reproduction tank but the lining has been done very badly. It's pitted everywhere and there's quite a bit of rust. This could explain a lot of the problems!

Now on the lookout for a decent (genuine) 2nd hand Commando Roadster tank. Anyone got one?

The saga continues :)
 
Oh, my...

I have yet to see a tank liner that has survived 2 or more years of actual use.
 
Compression might be a concern. I assume this was done with engine cold so would be lower than when hot. I hit 150-ish when hot, throttle held wide open while kicking. Both sides within a few psi. That is the issue I see on yours, 15psi difference side to side.
Repeat check once you get it running and see if things even up some.
Are you running a fuel filter in the hoses to carbs? Helps keep crude out. I run the sintered bronze type, not the metal mesh ones. Cheap insurance at $15 for a bag of 10 on ebay.
 
Correction on the compression. I suddenly realised that I didn’t have the throttle open on the left cylinder test!

I’ve just re-tested and got 130 each side. Phew!

Tested cold, by the way.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top