Kickstart position

The RGM T160 kicker is longer than a M111 kicker as I have both brought a M111 kicker for my 74 Commando when a scum bag stole my original kicker back in 79 it has a more bend on the lever, took me a long time (over 4 months) to find one as was the days before the internet, but I got good at clutch starting the Norton, 4th gear bump start was easy just had to be quick on the clutch when it fired up lol, but the RGM long fold away kicker has been the best for kicking and folding away completely, wish I had one when I brought my Norton new and I was a skinny 17 year old, but I learned the knack real quick.

Ashley
 
I don’t know how the fine folks at RGM can ship to the states faster than the states can. Thanks for all the reply’s!
 

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The kickstart that came with my bike must have been the cheap one because the Andover genuine one actually gives your leg more clearance .
 
I realise I should give more info on my fix for lack of detent in the folded position for the long RGM.
I inserted a belleville spring (dished washer) in the top gap between the kicker and the knuckle. The top gap is important because I could not get the pivot bolt to "start" with the spring in the lower slot.
I fitted a 22.5x11.2x0.6 spring like the link below

Tap it into place (dished downwards) with a small hammer (or a big one)
Centre it using a rod (philips screwdriver?) from above until the bore appear centred from above
Install the pivot bolt - can be a bit difficult to start. A bit of a wriggle won't hurt.
Torque and lubricate - I use TAC2

Makes it stay in whatever position you choose.
I guess as it wears you may need to insert a second one - probably in parallel with the first. Mine has done 9000 miles - 99% kick-starts.

If the kick-starter is brand new it's possible the spring won't yet fit - wait!
Cheers
 
Last edited:
I realise I should give more info on the fix for lack of detent in the folded position for the long RGM.
I inserted a belleville spring (dished washer) in the top gap between the kicker and the knuckle. The top gap is important because I could not get the pivot bolt to "start" with the spring in the lower slot.
I fitted a 22.5x11.2x0.6 spring like the link below

Tap it into place (dished downwards) with a small hammer (or a big one)
Centre it using a rod (philips screwdriver?) from above until the bore appear centred from above
Install the pivot bolt - can be a bit difficult to start
Torque and lubricate - I use TAC2

Makes it stay in whatever position you choose.
Cheers
The original lever fitted to my Commando and still working has a billet 304 stainless steel knuckle, is fitted with a detent and a stainless Bellville spring washer. I used 304 stainless for the knuckle as it's relatively tough, machines well and the splines mould into the KS shaft perfectly. The production lever uses a carbon steel knuckle as they thought the 304 would be too soft. Why the Belleville washer and detent were dropped I have no idea.
 
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