JBWeld bearing bore saving technique

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Hobot

Hobot

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Shade tree mechanics just love our chemical cold welding, and leaf liter. If one were ever to encounter a worn wallowed wider bore in otherwise decent shell, how would one apply the sauce yet not weld the rolling elements path or end up welding bearing off center in the worn bore? Loctite is not up to this, no way no how, period end of discussion on it here. Oh oh, hehe, just hit me, I'm going to put various logo's on Ms Peel, like Jim's blue spacey one, now see I'll confuse the world more with a JBW logo near by : (

http://jbweld.net/index.php

JBWeld bearing bore saving technique
 
JBW and big rasp are being used currently on Peel's frame and braces and have used a rock and bailing twine to get going again. This ain't a post to spoof on to me so responding so comnoz will notice and fill me in before I glue races in. Does one need to texture the race surface to match worn chattered grip texture of the bore?
 
Found this but still leaves a few loose ends for me to comprehend, I think, therefore I am,... I think.

Postby comnoz » Sat Apr 30, 2011 3:15 pm
I would clean it up with no residue solvent and fit the new bearing with a thin coat of JB weld. I usually have put it in the bore but as Pete says only a very thin coat so it doesn't get a buildup behind the bearing. A thin coat on the OD of the bearing also couldn't hurt anything. Jim
Click to expand...
 
That's quite a JBW link RennieK...when it opened I laughed out loud. So Hobot , just exactly how wallered out is your bearing bore? I mean if it is opened up so much that you're worried about the race being off center then it sounds to me like it is too badly worn for JB weld to be effective. As for getting it in the "rolling elements path" just take care not to be messy with it. I like your idea of using their logo on you bike too. Cj
 
The bearings can be masked off with low-tack poster-mounting stuff (Blu-tack in the UK) or modelling clay, and if you put the JB weld tubes into hot water it goes very fluid, so it may be possible to centralise the bearing and pour the stuff into the gap?
It also stays fluid for some time.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a kid's bike engine with JB weld, as a huge chunk of engine casing got knocked off by the chain unshipping itself, and its going well so far... I'll try to get photos if anyone's interested.
 
i can't hold me liquor as gives me bad H/A's later if I drink enough to get off on, so took me a bit to see what the J&B images were about. Just don't put in fiber glass tanks but I know ole JBWeld is up to it.

Cj, I don't think I'd want it to flow away easy and pile up away from the bore walls. The deal is I've a repaired Qualife shell that has eye ball obvious bore spin wear and I'd thought to use J BW before I saw JIm using it, but then wondered about over spill and bearing going in slightly cockeye'd to add bind to shaft once in service. I know the black steel dust part is magnetic and used that to hold flowing soft JBW where needed till set up.

Plan a is nick up the outer race and grease fill the run, heat shell then smear JBW on and place froozen race then assemble with shafts and other bearings give it a spine then let set up. If it works then I've another over bored shell Trixie can use it ever needs to. I've also one with the whole back side of the shell blown out slightly bigger than the outer race that just would stay put even cold.

To The Moon Alice - Right in The KIsser!

ahhhhhhhh
 
With it's high temperature rating, and it's general toughness, it's a great product for some engine repairs, and this type of repair seems appropriate to me too.

Yeah, as you say Steve, just get the alignment correct.

I've found that it flows when the parts are heated after the glue is applied as well.
I use those acid brushes that are meant for soldering to "paint" gasket sealants and they also work well to "stiple" JB Weld into broken casting edges.

So, I'd think about painting the JB Weld it onto the bearing outer race as well as the race seat to ensure complete yet frugal coverage, followed by assembly and a touch of hair dryer to just warm the casting and bearing enough to slightly liquify the glue and let gravity flow further ensure full penetration. When it flows, add a little cool glue to the top and watch it get sucked down into the joint.
 
Has anyone ever managed to successfully remove a bearing that was fitted with JB Weld? How would one do this?
 
Ok xback, guess JIm ain't gonna chime in on tricks, so with your review will strike out on my own, so to speak. I do know about JBW flowing out of the seam and on to no no's. i"ll freeze the race after I slice some notches in it then solder brush on some semi-set stiff JBW, then heat the shell to like 300' F and place grease protected race then slap the box together with shafts and hope for the best.

To remove I'll heat shell to upper 400's, lower 500' F and stick on a stack of super magnets to add mass to the race and slam bam thank you mam it out.
If you ever get a race or whole bearing stuck cockeye'd in too cool a case, you get use to frying pan smoke to get it back out and in again no more problemo.

I would not trust JBW in an engine bore as hot enough to soften to clay like as seen on a cast iron fake fin repair.
 
When you mentioned "J-B weld logo" my mind thought 1st of Jim Beam Bourbon but then moved quickly to J&B Scotch either of which would make a fine decal. Although Jim Beam Racing has the best image:

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/v ... p&fr=aaplw

Still the fit can't be that loose can it? The J-B weld has a certain consistency of it's own so I'd think the bearing race would almost self centre if one very gently lowered it in place keeping it perfectly level on the way down. If it was looser than that you could use a feeler gage cut into 3 or 4 shims to centre it (if in fact the oversized boss is evenly worn on centre)
 
Hehe, this was logo that first flashed back to confuse me.

JBWeld bearing bore saving technique


I'd think the slightly stiff JBW would tend to spread loads and self center. Its a used race shell so obvious galling but beefy surround so if too far off may just fill with JBW and carry to a machinist to re cut. This is just a stop gap until can afford ITT bullet proof 4 spd wide ratio side car gear box.
 
Steve -

It's easy to get the part too warm such that you lose control of the flow of the glue. Maybe even no heat at all.

You might experiment on some old lawn mower engine or other bearing/race combo, to optimize the procedure.
 
Huh, xbs'r that's what I was hoping someone else could guide me on rather than my own trial/errors. Not a bad ID to get old mower case and bearing and play with it. There's 80 yr old fella that still works on mowers on garage floor near by so will check for spares there. I've got 3 old mower engines here but more work to open up down to cases, ugh. I'll take a photo of the mystery bore condition and see if a machinist might tap in some set screws some how.

Ugh, just discovered my mowers thrown belt included throwing off the blade and its shaft in the deck and I don't know where they landed. This is a priority over a cycle to survive here so another set back delay.
 
Yeah, at some point cutting the grass becomes a priority. Last Saturday, I cut our 1/2 acre for the first time this spring. Pissed off the gophers. Last year I trapped 36 of the little bas***ds; this years count after 2 1/2 days of traps out - 3.
 
That made me grin xbs'r, that there common grounds among us. Mower parts ordered. I just got a call out, so missing my Trixie to vacation on each way. Today lully gagging to work a beeped at a crow to get away in time, then glanced in mirror to see if he returned quick or not then brought eyes to road path to see a deep dead ahead 3 car lenghts then leaped away within one lenght, then I heard myself scream/squeal involuntary in mix of anger and fear reflex. Safe Journeys's hobot
 
Steve, I try real hard to follow along on your posts but what the heck are you talking about here....."Today lully gagging to work a beeped at a crow to get away in time, then glanced in mirror to see if he returned quick or not then brought eyes to road path to see a deep dead ahead 3 car lenghts then leaped away within one lenght, then I heard myself scream/squeal involuntary in mix of anger and fear reflex. Safe Journeys's hobot" My guess is that you were goofing around with a bird?? and not paying attention to the road and almost ran into something? Is that about right? be safe buddy, i want to see your bearing repair , and your dourin supercharged custom bike finished. Cj
 
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