Another "one last thing". Here's a question for Power Arc users. Sometimes it actually starts on first kick. And sometimes on first kick it stops my swing near the top and then on second swing it might kick back really hard. Might I have it a touch too advanced? I was very careful with making sure the light just next to the optical sensor (in my case, hard to see without bending way down to look just below the sensor module) came on at top dead center. Method I used was to first lightly tighten down the timing module in the middle of it's limited range of rotation. Then fully tighten the timing disk bolt, getting the notch as close to directly under the optical sensor housing I could without worrying about getting it exactly correct. Then, making sure of tdc, loosening and rotating the module to get it just right -- light coming on -- and tightening the module down again. Is this kick back due to not giving the sensor wheel a full rotation in the correct direction to get the correct count between firings? Could that be caused by lack of sufficient swing in the kick? I don't remember a large backward rotation on the first kick that would have increased the count and caused it to fire very advanced though that certainly would cause a kick-back. Also noticed often on first kick there is an "almost" kick-back where, after the slightest downward movement in the kick, my kick is stopped dead as if it has fired very early in the downward swing rotation. It often fires up next kick, but just as often kicks back violently at the bottom of that second swing. By the way, that's when my foot sliped off the kick-starter yesterday and the kick-starter banged back up. I got a good whack in the shin. That, I really want to prevent happening again. Is there, perhaps, a 'slight' backwards rotation where I percieve a dead stop in rotation that increases the count and is enough to cause kick-back? I have thought to kick it through with the key off, but if it's all turned off, what good would that do to the count? Also wondered if there is still power to the timing module if the red ignition cut-off button is pushed? Must say that once running it is now running very well. And would it do any good to install a cutout swich for power to the coil only so I could get a full rotation? Anyone else experiencing this -- or am I doing something wrong?
