Is fuel stabiliser a good idea?

robs ss

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I have no experience with using this type of product and was wondering if those who have used it would be prepared to share their experiences - good and bad?
 
Yup .... star-tron claim good for 2yrs , I will use pretty much any brand name just not unfamiliar or knockoff types .... usually “sta-bil” for me as well ..
 
What are you going to use it for, for when the bike is going to be stored and let to sit or are you thinking using the lead replacement additive that is added to the fuel for running older bikes, if its for storage I just leave the fuel in it and depends how long its going to sit just replace the fuel after 6 months, premium fuel will last longer than the plain fuel, but all fuels will go off after a few months of sitting , the old leaded fuel use to last for years without problems.

Ashley
 
Why use it at all if you are storing your bike, the tank is only a fire risk.
I drain all fuel out, including the float bowls.
Then pour some 2T oil in tank and swirl around to stop it rusting.
 
Hello Rob

I've had very good results with "Fuel Doctor"
It's made in Australia for the fuel industry.
Comes in 1lt
Any 4 stroke or diesel engine that sits around for a long time ie log splitter etc.
2 of my old singles that don't get used over winter always start and run well after hibernation. (including the Mk111 with Mikuni carb)
I have 2 bikes with fiberglass tanks, these get drained and dried before sitting so I can't give any report on them. I did ring Fuel Doctor and ask re fiberglass and they said it won't hurt.
Look it up on the web. https://fueldoctors.com.au/

Regards
Graeme
 
an interesting video , maybe change the way we all look at most fuel stabilizers .... enjoy !
 
Studied ad nasum...What "read" from various sources. This is the main highlites I recall on this topic.

1. igniter enhancement or replenisher. The petrol light aromatics or igniters (benzene?) evaporates and without it it becomes stale gas. Most stabilizers have a good dose of this to "refresh"your gasoline's Rigor mortis. More than likely the measured evaporation test in the video was from the igniter.

2. Enzyme : to attach to the ethanol molecule and help block the H2O from binding with the hydroscopic ethanol. Helps prevent "phasing" or the dropping out of the contaminated ethanol. Caviat: when you buy your choice of juice be aware.
A. just because it says "compatible with E-10" does not meas it has the active enzyme.
B. It must say it "treats" E-10. Big difference...AND...Enzyme MUST be added initially while the gas is fresh and uncontaminated. It DOES NOT fix phased out fuel/water after the fact.

3. Like old fashion fuel line deicing fluid with
isopropyl alcohol and methanol. There is a fair percentage of this combo. Marine type SEAFOAM has about 4x the methanol of regular automotive motorcycle treatment due to the expected humid wet marine environment. Some water contamination is more likely to run through the carb and burn if carried through by Isopropyl and methanol.

Removing E-10 is my prefered method for storing my machinery. E-10 is bad bad stuff

Sorry if my recollection clashes with newer propaganda LOL
 
i have used them all best thing for me is to use non ethanol gas with just a splash of stabil 360 i use this cocktail in my 68 MG the wife's 79 Camaro the 39 Farmall F30 and all the bikes and all the lawn equipment i put a splash of Marvel Mystery in the tractor's dose leaving ethanol gas in anything for any length of time is bad news at least that's my 2 cents worth
 
I saw the above video on our local Ducati club site (ECDC) , I also watched buddy’s video on chain lube, kinda interesting too .... best practice around here is filling up at Shell with their V-Power high test , so far ethanol free as is most HT gas here , I do go to the trouble of picking up 5gal(US) of 116oct race gas to use in Norton which works incredibly well and has very long shelf life .... sold around here for “racing sleds“ mostly , so not hard to find , a bit costly but well worth it ....
 
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