Initiation Rites: My Sat morning with the MkIII

Field notes from my long gone pipe dream of a simple carb clean on a non runner…

1. Getting the battery tray, horn and oil tank out was about the same as solving a Rubik's Cube. Patience my son…
2. Top rear tab on oil tank sheared and rubber mount trashed. Need to search here for mods.
3. Rear ISO slid out in my hand. I think it's bad - and I think I heard it say "you will experience pain in the future.."
4. Swing arm movement definitely due to bushing play. Will do the threaded rod and washer thing.
5. Patina vs. powder coat? I really don't want to do the full monty on the frame. Touch up? Powder coat the center stand?
6. Made another "Norton tool" by cutting down a wrench to remove the lower left rear shock against the chain guard.
7. Trying to stay original and debating reinstall of the oil cooler on the frame just below the front ISO.

Opinions, encouragement appreciated! Just hope I can remember how to put it back together.

Cheers,

Andy

yes to everything else

however you have enough off the frame now to just sandpaper what you can get to and hand brush on a nice semi gloss paint and all be well

oil cooler, just my opinion but not necessary at all and another source of piping, complexity and possible oil leaks

I have twice crossed the desert SW United States on Commandos with no oil cooler in temps over 100 degrees all day to no ill effect

the Commando engine is well air cooled as is and an oil cooler could even be a negative by not allowing the oil to get hot enough to remove condensation on shorter trips

IMHO skip the oil cooler. Ugly to look at and not needed on a Norton for ordinary street riding. As a matter of fact, could be detrimental as you want the engine oil to get hot enough to burn off any moisture and volatiles, something above 180 degrees F or so.
I've had good luck sanding the rough parts of a frame down, scuffing the good paint areas with 1000 grit and then spraying Rustoleum black. Prep counts, use etching primer on the bare metal and then sealer primer over the paint, followed by high build filler primer over everything. Some people say they have had problems with oil and gas on Rustoleum, but I never have. It's best if you can let it cure for several months before handling it. Being an enamel it gets harder over time.

In Canada we have Canadian Tire Store ( hardware / automotive ) they sell oil base paint for metal called Rust Coat ... all black metal on my Commando was painted with a brush using this stuff ( gloss ) 11 years ago ... still looks great and easy to touch up ... simple ,easy and effective .... no one has ever said hey budy you painted your frame and stuff with a brush either ... I did however strip all old paint off with automotive grade paint stripper first ... that was a bit painful and messy ... the end result was really quite good and I like it ...
Craig

Thanks much guys… I will leave the oil cooler off and look for a way to touch up the rough spots.