Im new :-)

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Slapperen

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Hey...Im new here.

My name is Johnny,im 45 years and i live in Denmark (sorry my bad english).

I just bought a from papers 72 commando 750 maybe its 71, showing a few pics.

Im new :-)


Im new :-)


Im new :-)


Im new :-)


Im new :-)


I noticed, that when i start it, the right side fires harder and more hot than the left side and even, after running idle and a quick spin for 100 meters or so the left side stays really cold, as i can touch the exhaust pretty close to the head, where as the right side get hot all the way to the end of the exhaust.

Any idea what could coz this ?

Cheers johnny
 
Welcome, looks nice.

Check you are getting spark on the cold side and fuel through the carb too. You might have to clean the carb on the cold side. Sounds like no fuel or no spark, but could be other things (coil, wiring, points?). Those are the first and easy to check.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Welcome, looks nice.

Check you are getting spark on the cold side and fuel through the carb too. You might have to clean the carb on the cold side. Sounds like no fuel or no spark, but could be other things (coil, wiring, points?). Those are the first and easy to check.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

Thx...it does fire on both sides as it run`s nice...and will get hotter..but take much longer on left side tho..so maybe it gets less fuel on left side ?

btw it has a Boyer ignition

Cheers
 
Are the exhaust pipes the same colour as it goes away from the head? Does it get better with a long ride? Air control correct? Choke is on with loose cable, off with tight cable. I'm no expert, I'm sure others will chime in. Check the carb slides are both all the way up in the carb at the same time with throttle wide open. Floats set the same? Lots of things to check. http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20 ... html#FLOAT

Since you just got it, you may want to do a complete tune up, including adjusting chains. Don't know what the last guy did.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Are the exhaust pipes the same colour as it goes away from the head? Does it get better with a long ride? Air control correct? Choke is on with loose cable, off with tight cable. I'm no expert, I'm sure others will chime in. Check the carb slides are both all the way up in the carb at the same time with throttle wide open. Floats set the same? Lots of things to check. http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20 ... html#FLOAT

Since you just got it, you may want to do a complete tune up, including adjusting chains. Don't know what the last guy did.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

Thx Dave

exhaust pipes look more or less same, havent had the licence plate yet, as im waiting for the historic one, so the long run have to wait :-), and im not that keen on running it if something is wrong, it should have been overhauled and done 5k kilometers since (head and buttom) no Chokes in carb`s and slides follow fine all the way, ill check the floats, when lights comes back :-) air screws are some position

Cheers
 
Slapperen said:
....it should have been overhauled and done 5k kilometers since (head and buttom) ....
Cheers
Click to expand...

But you don't know for sure? Best to check it out yourself or if not capable or interested, get yourself a good Norton mechanic, they require care like a fine mistress.

I would think you have all kinds of evening light there by now, maybe to 10pm, but it's 11 or 12 now.

Dave
69S
 
Check the pilot drillings and pilot bush are not blocked: http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

Change the spark plugs?
Check valve clearances?
Maybe do a compression check of the cylinders?

(It's a fairly common mistake, but the headlamp brackets are fitted on the wrong sides-as the left bracket has been fitted upside down on the right side, and right hand bracket is probably on the left side)
 
G'day slapperen,
Looks like a nice one... Problem is a bit odd, if it starts and idles and runs nice.
It's probably weak spark, but lets think simple first.
Recent rebiuld by previous owner ?... I wonder if the pipes are a matching pair.
Possibly, only one got replaced and is either better or poorer quality.
Have fun with your new bike.
AC.
 
L.A.B. said:
Check the pilot drillings and pilot bush are not blocked: http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

Change the spark plugs?
Check valve clearances?
Maybe do a compression check of the cylinders?

(It's a fairly common mistake, but the headlamp brackets are fitted on the wrong sides-as the left bracket has been fitted upside down on the right side, and right hand bracket is probably on the left side)
Click to expand...

thx l.A.B
ill look into it..sparks r new tho...valve was also in my mind and ill see if thats where the problem is

AussieCombat said:
G'day slapperen,
Looks like a nice one... Problem is a bit odd, if it starts and idles and runs nice.
It's probably weak spark, but lets think simple first.
Recent rebiuld by previous owner ?... I wonder if the pipes are a matching pair.
Possibly, only one got replaced and is either better or poorer quality.
Have fun with your new bike.
AC.
Click to expand...

not rebuild by owner....some dude up north..he should be one of the better ones here..but what do i know ;-)

It allways start in first kick

"I wonder if the pipes are a matching pair.
Possibly, only one got replaced and is either better or poorer quality."
im not sure what u mean by that :-)...the peashooters ?

Im gonna order Amal Carb Service Kits and new needles
what needle jets should i get..a range ?
Cheers
 
While you are waiting why not check that the valves are all fully opening before you start spending money. You could measure each one with a ruler, it doesn't need to be too accurate, within 0.5mm will do for now.

Cash
 
Welcome to the forum!

Very smart looking bike.

Check the valve adjustment first, and the throttle cables for equal pull (just the slightest bit of slack in each cable when you have the handlebars turned to full left or right).

Two of the easiest things to correct.

New spark plugs next, just in case.

THEN teardown of carbs with soak in GOOD carb chemical bath.
 
BEWARE, nowadays lean/clean burn/booze fuels do not hardly leave anything that can clog a passage and that the bulk of clogs past and present has nothing to do with fuel but everything to do with white zinc oxide crust that can form from O2 in the air or H2O in fuel and nothing but physical methods or mild acid bath-boil, like vinegar will clean it up, just don't leave long in acetic or any other acid or strong base like detergents too long, as in 10 min scale. Never trust a new item to work any better that the failed one, until it does for sure. Spark plugs and contact condensers top list of these to be aware of.
 
cash said:
While you are waiting why not check that the valves are all fully opening before you start spending money. You could measure each one with a ruler, it doesn't need to be too accurate, within 0.5mm will do for now.

Cash
Click to expand...
I will :-)

grandpaul said:
Welcome to the forum!

Very smart looking bike.

Check the valve adjustment first, and the throttle cables for equal pull (just the slightest bit of slack in each cable when you have the handlebars turned to full left or right).

Two of the easiest things to correct.

New spark plugs next, just in case.

THEN teardown of carbs with soak in GOOD carb chemical bath.
Click to expand...

the throttle cables does equal pull :-)

hobot said:
BEWARE, nowadays lean/clean burn/booze fuels do not hardly leave anything that can clog a passage and that the bulk of clogs past and present has nothing to do with fuel but everything to do with white zinc oxide crust that can form from O2 in the air or H2O in fuel and nothing but physical methods or mild acid bath-boil, like vinegar will clean it up, just don't leave long in acetic or any other acid or strong base like detergents too long, as in 10 min scale. Never trust a new item to work any better that the failed one, until it does for sure. Spark plugs and contact condensers top list of these to be aware of.
Click to expand...

I will clean the carbs, when i get repair kits :-)

Thx for the welcomme and nice fast answers guy`s

Cheers
 
I've been doing this stuff for over 30 years and I can only fully recommend ONE carb cleaner:

Berryman's Chem Dip, in the 1-gallon can, with parts dipping basket.

VERY nasty stuff. Use in well ventilated area, with rubber gloves. FLUSH ALL PARTS IN FRESH RUNNING WATER for a few minutes.

Your spouse may not want you in the house for a day or two, the lingering odor is amazing.

Bottom line: IT WORKS.
 
I used to get the carb dip at NAPA. it came in a metal 1 gallon can with a steel dipping basket. It had a lingering odor, my wife made me remove it from the house garadge and relocate it to my shop 3 miles away. It gave her asthma attacks.
 
grandpaul said:
I've been doing this stuff for over 30 years and I can only fully recommend ONE carb cleaner:

Berryman's Chem Dip, in the 1-gallon can, with parts dipping basket.

VERY nasty stuff. Use in well ventilated area, with rubber gloves. FLUSH ALL PARTS IN FRESH RUNNING WATER for a few minutes.

Your spouse may not want you in the house for a day or two, the lingering odor is amazing.

Bottom line: IT WORKS.
Click to expand...

Hehe..sounds nice and really nasty ;-)

U have any idea if i can find that in europe ?

bwolfie said:
I used to get the carb dip at NAPA. it came in a metal 1 gallon can with a steel dipping basket. It had a lingering odor, my wife made me remove it from the house garadge and relocate it to my shop 3 miles away. It gave her asthma attacks.
Click to expand...

Damn nasty stuff...wish i could get some :-)
 
Johnny,
welcome to the forum. Sorry about my bad Dutch :lol:
You have thee 72 combat comando with the disc brake.
It is a 1972 750 cc bike. Vin# should be between 200,000 - 220,000.
I have the same beautiful creature in yellow.
Fastest factory bike released to the public
I know the proddy racers were avail folks.
Very cool bike looks great.
Start askin' away we probably been there done that.
Your on the right forum.
Marshal
 
MarshalNorton said:
Johnny,
welcome to the forum. Sorry about my bad Dutch :lol:
You have thee 72 combat comando with the disc brake.
It is a 1972 750 cc bike. Vin# should be between 200,000 - 220,000.
I have the same beautiful creature in yellow.
Fastest factory bike released to the public
I know the proddy racers were avail folks.
Very cool bike looks great.
Start askin' away we probably been there done that.
Your on the right forum.
Marshal
Click to expand...

Thx Marchal :-) yours is really nice 2..how do u know my bike is a combat ?

to the topic..i checked the valves and it looks fine..same in both sides...so must be a fuel problem..as the plugs r new and spark is fine both sides 2

Johnny
 
Johnny,
Well that's a bit of good news the cams OK. How does the bike run past quarter throttle? The motor will be running on the needles not the carb's primary circuit.

Cash
 
cash said:
Johnny,
Well that's a bit of good news the cams OK. How does the bike run past quarter throttle? The motor will be running on the needles not the carb's primary circuit.

Cash
Click to expand...
hey Cash...it seems like it runs fine..pulls really nice also...just heats really fast on right side and slow on left..it maybe idles a bit high..but i havent really riden it yet..still need the licence plate :-)..just trying to get it to run as smooth as posible before i get it :-)
 
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