ignition switch problem, I think
- Thread starter OzT
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OzT said:
If it won't idle any lower without stalling then obviously not. :wink:
OzT said:
It shouldn't be stiff? Maybe remove it and clean the threads?
OzT said:
The starting point is irrelevant. With the engine fully warmed up, use the air screw to obtain the highest and smoothest idle RPM, then reduce the idle speed (using the throttle stop screw) if necessary.
OzT said:
Adjusting the air screw basically affects the idle mixture. Once you begin opening the throttle then the mixture is governed by other carburettor components. I would suggest you wait until you've got it on the road before you attempt to adjust any other settings.
http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf
OzT said:
Possibly? It would seem that something isn't wired correctly, or maybe there is a bad earth connection?
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Hey Dave, it sure sounds good and strong! specially now I've done as L.A.B. suggested with the air screw, it runs a lot sweeter now. Big test is wil she start easily still tomorrow.
Yeah I can't get it to tick over too nicely much under 1,200 rpm, but at least it doesn't stall. One thing I like about the Commando is if you set timing/mixture wrong, the kick back is like a leg tickle compared to the Matchless, which really lets you know you've got it wrong or you've opened the throttle too early.
Another wee little niggle... oh and I have given up trying to trace the bad earth on the ignition light, thought I've cleaned all the earths but am wondering if the ignition switch is not 100%, but hey ho it's working so leaving it, an expense I can do without. I know it's only fairly smal beer but not ghaving reserves of cash spenfding as little as possible.
Anyway, back to this little niggle. When th ebike was tunning noticed a wips of smoke coming form the connector from the alternator, the blue one. And when I switched off it did feel hot. But not able to reproduce since. Wonder if she's overcharging? See how goes as I carry on putting bike all back together again. Awaiting a rear lens and getting a fues holder in, then renew the brake fluid and I think she'll be ready for her test then I can take her out for a shakedown run.
Let you know how I get on.
Cheers guys, and happy riding. I hope it's sunnier weather over the pond than here, rain rain rain and more rain.
Yeah I can't get it to tick over too nicely much under 1,200 rpm, but at least it doesn't stall. One thing I like about the Commando is if you set timing/mixture wrong, the kick back is like a leg tickle compared to the Matchless, which really lets you know you've got it wrong or you've opened the throttle too early.
Another wee little niggle... oh and I have given up trying to trace the bad earth on the ignition light, thought I've cleaned all the earths but am wondering if the ignition switch is not 100%, but hey ho it's working so leaving it, an expense I can do without. I know it's only fairly smal beer but not ghaving reserves of cash spenfding as little as possible.
Anyway, back to this little niggle. When th ebike was tunning noticed a wips of smoke coming form the connector from the alternator, the blue one. And when I switched off it did feel hot. But not able to reproduce since. Wonder if she's overcharging? See how goes as I carry on putting bike all back together again. Awaiting a rear lens and getting a fues holder in, then renew the brake fluid and I think she'll be ready for her test then I can take her out for a shakedown run.
Let you know how I get on.
Cheers guys, and happy riding. I hope it's sunnier weather over the pond than here, rain rain rain and more rain.
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Hi L.A.B, how are you?
Is the bullet connector green/yellow from alternator to the blue from the loom. That was smoking yesterday, seems ok today. Bike started this morning with my new mixture settings from yesterday. Just need to relearn when to use the cold start lever and when you just kick and open throttle.
The plate under the seat that holds the angled hook which screws onto the shocker, can you buy just the plate and if so what is it called and where from please? It's the one about 4 inches long with 6 little screws that screw onto the seat and the other hook bit screws on the end. If not purchasable at a realistic price guess will find piece of metal and drill the holes myself, should'nt be hard.
Brake fluid. I have some Comma brake fluid 11 years old, been opened, is it any good now or do I need new fluid?
Anyone know size of fuel lines, is it 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16 please?
Still awaiting the rear lens then should be ready for the MOT, then hopefully rain free day, insurance to get yet and yay, on the road!!!
Is the bullet connector green/yellow from alternator to the blue from the loom. That was smoking yesterday, seems ok today. Bike started this morning with my new mixture settings from yesterday. Just need to relearn when to use the cold start lever and when you just kick and open throttle.
The plate under the seat that holds the angled hook which screws onto the shocker, can you buy just the plate and if so what is it called and where from please? It's the one about 4 inches long with 6 little screws that screw onto the seat and the other hook bit screws on the end. If not purchasable at a realistic price guess will find piece of metal and drill the holes myself, should'nt be hard.
Brake fluid. I have some Comma brake fluid 11 years old, been opened, is it any good now or do I need new fluid?
Anyone know size of fuel lines, is it 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16 please?
Still awaiting the rear lens then should be ready for the MOT, then hopefully rain free day, insurance to get yet and yay, on the road!!!
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OzT said:
Fine, thanks, and hope you are too?
OzT said:
Something a bit odd there, as the green/yellow from the stator would normally connect to the harness green/yellow (two green/yellow wires) and the stator white/green to a corresponding single harness white/green. Blue is usually the power wire to the headlamp, so somebody may have done some re-wiring in the past? One "green/yellow" harness wire should ultimately connect to one of the two rectifier AC terminals, and the other green/yellow goes to the assimilator "AL" terminal.
OzT said:
I don't know what part that is, the '73 model seats usually come complete.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... &Plate=026
OzT said:
I think it's high time you broke open the piggy bank and bought some new fluid. Where brakes are concerned there's no reason to penny pinch by using ancient brake fluid.
OzT said:
It can depend on the size of the tap and carb fittings, probably 1/4" but I suggest you check the fittings.
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I'm good thanks L.A.B., be heaps better when I've got the bike MOT'ed and the sun comes out.
Think I'll get new brake fluid, maybe not Comma though, didn't liked their engine oils so maybe their brake fluids not so good? DOT 3 or 4? I guess 4 must be better?
3 wires from alternator to short cables to the rectifier, Green/White -> Brown/Blue, Green/Black -> Blue/white and the Green/Yellow -> Blue. All 3 then goes to the I think it's rectifier on the frame, wired in as from frame out to the earth plate Blue, Brown/Blue and Blue/White.
So I guess those wires from the alternator bullet connectors to the rectifier are not original.
As to the seat plate, may just leave it. It's only cause it's a bit flexi worried it may fail the MOT if the tester grabs that side of the seat and rocks it. Guess if failed I can make a new one up I'm sure.
Whilst the bike is awaiting its rear lens, wonder people's opinion on driving belts? The primary drive is belt. I've shredded the original one years ago, replaced it and done about 4,000 miles on it before bike put in garage 11 years ago. Do belts fail on just the mileage used or over time as well? I have also a brand new one I brought as spare when I replaced the old one, but that's 11 years old now as well, if unused. They still be ok to use?
Will get 5/16 clear braided fuel hose I think. always easier to clamp down oversized I guess then try and force fit it on. Have a Mikuni VM34 and it looks quite a big fuel inlet.
Cheers guys!
Think I'll get new brake fluid, maybe not Comma though, didn't liked their engine oils so maybe their brake fluids not so good? DOT 3 or 4? I guess 4 must be better?
3 wires from alternator to short cables to the rectifier, Green/White -> Brown/Blue, Green/Black -> Blue/white and the Green/Yellow -> Blue. All 3 then goes to the I think it's rectifier on the frame, wired in as from frame out to the earth plate Blue, Brown/Blue and Blue/White.
So I guess those wires from the alternator bullet connectors to the rectifier are not original.
As to the seat plate, may just leave it. It's only cause it's a bit flexi worried it may fail the MOT if the tester grabs that side of the seat and rocks it. Guess if failed I can make a new one up I'm sure.
Whilst the bike is awaiting its rear lens, wonder people's opinion on driving belts? The primary drive is belt. I've shredded the original one years ago, replaced it and done about 4,000 miles on it before bike put in garage 11 years ago. Do belts fail on just the mileage used or over time as well? I have also a brand new one I brought as spare when I replaced the old one, but that's 11 years old now as well, if unused. They still be ok to use?
Will get 5/16 clear braided fuel hose I think. always easier to clamp down oversized I guess then try and force fit it on. Have a Mikuni VM34 and it looks quite a big fuel inlet.
Cheers guys!
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OzT said:
Yes, as the standard RM21 alternator stator only has two wires, Green/Yellow and White/Green, as it has a third Green/Black wire if all three wires go to separate rectifier connections it is probably a high output three-phase alternator in which case the rectifier won't be the standard item.
OzT said:
The VM Mikuni inlet stub is probably 8mm.
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I feel flipping amazing. Took the Commando out just round the block, and what a feeling! The sound, the power, I've forgotten how quick it was. Maybe lack the sustained easy lopping top end cruising of the K75 I've been riding last few years, but the take off grunt is something I've missed for so many years. Just wanted to share it with you guys, you know how it's like rebuilding something that you've sort of forgotten how it was like when it was your everyday transport.
Brakes are a bit soft, that needs looking into but was going to bleed the front and clean both the pads and shoes anyway. Get some new fuel pipes, and I think it'll be ready for the test next week. I'm away rest of the week so next Monday the final touches.
Can anyone remember from the UK what car oil filter the bike used? I think from memory it was a Renault 12 or something. I know it was a common old car filter that will go on.
Cheers
Brakes are a bit soft, that needs looking into but was going to bleed the front and clean both the pads and shoes anyway. Get some new fuel pipes, and I think it'll be ready for the test next week. I'm away rest of the week so next Monday the final touches.
Can anyone remember from the UK what car oil filter the bike used? I think from memory it was a Renault 12 or something. I know it was a common old car filter that will go on.
Cheers
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OzT said:
Ducati.
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Hi
I bought one of these. I thought it was good value, and delivered quickly:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281076802768
I bought one of these. I thought it was good value, and delivered quickly:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281076802768
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