ID Knurl

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Ok, So im going to be modifying my Hyde rear sets, so that I can actually start my bike, and not half ass kick it to life. Im going to be eliminating the shift linkage, and running a shift lever similar to the stock setup. Anyone know the kurl size? Its probably a odd question.
 
Have you thought of doing away with the linkage all together and simply fitting a standard shift-lever facing backwards? You will have to bend the lever out to an angle of about 45 degrees and the shift pattern will be one-down-four-up. If the ergonomics work for you this is a very positive feeling arrangement with no linkages to develop play.
 
I had this arrangement on a Commando cafe racer and it worked very well, I used a standard shift lever and bent it myself to suit then had it rechromed, however if you have particularly large or small feet it could be a problem. I wear European size 42. It's easy and cheap enough to use a rusty old lever and see if it works for you.
 
Bob, that Norvil lever is just a standard length lever with a different bend in it. Easier and cheaper to do it yourself especially if you are experimenting.
 
That would work, I might take the stop shifter, cut off the existing shaft, and machine/weld my own version on.
 
Dave, I was thinking about bending the stock lever that I have. The one on the link is a little too long so that it's too close to the peg for me. Did you need to heat the lever before bending it?
 
Bob, I simply put it in a vise and bent it cold, I wouldn't try to bend it on the bike, as I think it might put too much strain on the shaft. I liked having the gear pattern reversed as it was then the same as the other bikes I was riding at the time.
 
On Peel I started off with shifter lever reversed. Don't think I had to bend it. After a season or so working up more whiz in leans I found I liked the 1dn3up pattern better even with the over head linkage. I believe there is a reverse gear box cam than restores normal shift pattern with the lever reversed. Ain't tracked that down yet but would eliminate another 1b+ of linkage. Welding your own custom sounds appealing to me but for the refinishing or re-chroming.
 
I have one of the Norvil reversed levers & like the pattern, solid shifts & simplicity of it. But I couldn't find a position where my foot was under it for the right leverage. I was allways fighting to upshift & it felt like I was pushing straight down the lever. My clipons are to low & I don't like the Corbin seat so when I get things situated I plan to try that lever again.
 
I can imagine if the footpeg position wasn't quite right for this set-up it could be a problem. I had Dunstall side-plates on mine and it worked for my feet, but I note that some of the kits have the pegs further back and further up than others. If fitted on standard Z-Plates there are a couple of possible positions where the original footpeg mounts went. One of my chums with big feet used to knock my bike into gear whenever he tried to start it, but he is a bit of a muppet!
 
The one on the left is the Norvil lever to replace the linkage. There's no reason one couldn't bend the stock one to that shape. It would have been better if they made it about an inch shorter, IMHO. Either lever, there is an odd feel to it because the pivot point is almost a foot in front of the peg and the arc is the opposite of the linkage or stock setup, which is more or less at the peg so your foot just rocks on the peg and the lever follows it. Still, I prefer it to the linkage.

ID Knurl
 
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