I need some primary leverage!

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powerdoc

powerdoc

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OK, remember I'm one of the guys that assembled toy planes as a kid without the instructions. Although I've worked on cars since I stopped making those model planes this is the first bike I've done. I have the primary cover off and am working on the crank gear of the primary drive. I've got a puller on it but it won't budge as I can't turn the puller hard enough because the crank turns as the wheel is off and I can't lock the engine down. Where can I wedge something SAFELY to get the leverage to get that gear off? Can I apply heat while trying to turn the puller?

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement!
 
powerdoc said:
I've got a puller on it but it won't budge as I can't turn the puller hard enough because the crank turns as the wheel is off and I can't lock the engine down. Where can I wedge something SAFELY to get the leverage to get that gear off?
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Don't try "cranking" up the puller to remove the engine sprocket.

Tighten up the puller as much as possible, then give the central puller bolt a sharp tap with a hammer and you should find that the central bolt can be tightened a little more. So repeat the whole process until the sprocket starts to loosen.
 
Hi Powerdoc,
An impact wrench air or electric would do the trick. However there are other times when you just need to hold it, like when you are reinstalling it with a torque wrench. For those occasions I feed about 10 feet of clean clothesline rope into the spark plug hole (being mindful of valve position) then bring the piston up against the rope, works great.

GB
 
I used a cheap steering wheel puller for mine and it even came w/ the right bolts, tightened it up and tapped the center bolt as LAB said and it popped right off. IF the center part of the puller is square you can prevent it from turning w/ a big Crescent wrench.....

I need some primary leverage!
 
Just be careful not to distort the end of the crank if the sprocket is really tight. If the sprocket doesn't pop off easily then screw the alternator nut back on the crank thread and insert a piece of soft metal in between the crank and the puller bolt.
 
I've been rapping the end with my recoil-less hammer with plastic face; I guess I need to get a more serious hammer

I need some primary leverage!
 
powerdoc said:
I've been rapping the end with my recoil-less hammer with plastic face; I guess I need to get a more serious hammer
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You need a proper metal hammer!

A plastic faced hammer won't shock the puller.
 
powerdoc said:
Oh, the thing that the girl is holding... I understand Master
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A sledgehammer would be overdoing it slightly I think, as the idea is to remove the sprocket, not knock the crankshaft out through the timing side crankcase!
 
Powerdoc, Her "hammers" look shockingly serious to me! However L.A.B , bluto & geo46er are right on the money. You can also hold a steel punch againt the sprocket, and carefully hit it with a steel hammer while the puller is loaded, to get the shock to the sprocket if tapping the center bolt isn't transferring enough. Cj
 
Make sure the puller is square, straight and lever or any shock will be deflected the not transmitted efficiently. Load it up and give it a pop.
 
Good and proper advice above. One further tip: Time can be your friend. If tightening up the puller and rapping the sprocket don't bring joy, leave the puller attached and tightened overnight (or longer) - you may find the sprocket loose when you come back; or at least a bit more prone to come loose when you "rinse and repeat." Best of luck.
 
Wow! I didn't expect her hammer to work so suddenly! It didn't budge, I gave the puller a couple of partial turns then a couple of whacks and... Wham! it was off, no creeping out this triplex-loaded sprocket!.

Well, it's dark outside so I'll have to resume tomorrow. I think I'll start a compendium of Mk3 disassembly for the neophyte who refuses to read the shop manual!
 
Turn out the lights in the tool room and confer with the tool girl. Or, leave the lights on!
 
The crank sprocket is a tapper fit and they all can use some HEAT till the oil smokes before even attempting to strike the center bolt, unless just to prove same thing you already know, it ain't coming off w/o HEATING the sprocket. I had them simply pop right off after HEATING while reaching for hammer that wasn't even needed after the HEATING>
 
My problem was actually not using enough cow bells, er....hammer strength. Once I disrespected ( I really hate that that is really a word) the end of my puller with sufficient force it came off readily. The tricky part, with my steering wheel puller, was to equalize the lengths of the bolts connecting to the gear itself and making sure the central part of the puller was straight on the crank in 90 degrees opposites.
 
Getting it all square and loaded is part of being a good mechanic but I still find man's use of fire beats his use of a club in this task. Ugh, on my last need to pull the sprocket last fall I actually broke the HD puller in photo above, so got out my more wimpy puller plus bigger longer flame and a civilized bop or two got er done. But hey its motorcycles and Nortons to boot so make all the memories you can your own way for however many weekends ya got to do it.
 
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