I know this has been asked before but

Norton46 · Jun 16, 2017

I would like some opinions and I know I will get them here.
ok we have a 1974 Commando, orange metal flake with silver logos and pinstripe.
I was last licensed in 2000, and has not been ridden since
it has 6100 miles on the clock
The throttle slides as stuck. Owner says someone test rode it back in 2000 and he did not run carbs empty.
Compression on both cylinders is 140 lbs with the throttle closed as they are stuck.
oil was dumped of course but when drained looked good
Rear chain has minimal wear
Tensioning rear chain does not cause primary chain to move
Selects through the gears freely (when turning rear wheel)
turn signal stalks showing some corrosion and chrome flaking
Original tires
Front Master cylinder does not leak but will no actuate brake
Has been stored inside, but paint seems dull, no clear coat, pinstripes are painted on but Norton logo is decal and not covered on tank and Commando decal on side covers same.
I will post some photos

Norton46 · Jun 16, 2017

What would the going value be?
Owner thinks that being all original adds lots of value.

Fullauto · Jun 16, 2017

Nice bike! If it hasn't been repainted, that is a rare colour. In fact I thought it was only MK I 850. I've never seen that colour in the flesh. The issues you speak of are fairly easily dealt with. Rebuild front master cylinder and caliper. Fork oil change. Adjusting the drive chain will not cause movement of the primary chain, but adjustment of the primary chain means you will need to adjust the final drive chain. Change all fluids etc. Take Anal Eccentric carbs and bin them. Either a new pair of Amal Premiers if you wish to punish yourself and remain fairly original or a single Mikuni VM34 if you want faultless running, good fuel consumption and little tuning and maintenance. Turn signal stalks are available. Not expensive and also available in stainless if you wish. Originality is worth SOME extra. Not lots. All parts are available and nothing expensive relative to other makes. Change tyres of course, Dunlop K81 (TT 100s) if originality is important to you or Avon Roadrider AM 26 100/90 x 19 if you prefer to have modern rubber that works.

Value will depend entirely where on the planet you are. In Australia, top dollar. Probably 14 to 15 thousand despite the issues if everything is clean and original. UK not much less, US the cheapest of all.

Should be a nice little time capsule.

lrutt · Jun 16, 2017

It's interesting that his does not have the grab bar on it.

My 73 that had 4200 miles, barn find, not ridden in 20+ years was basically the same. All original, fluted pipes, seat, etc. but no grab bar.

Was that an option? or did some people just remove it right away or what?

kommando · Jun 16, 2017

I thought the grab bar was Federally mandated, from when I do not know.

The 60’s fad of ridiculously high sissy bars also came about because the government started requiring “grab bars” for passenger safety. Bikers of those days began flaunting the law by building them as long and as garishly as they could get away with.

http://abate.r2pwebsites.com/About/History-of-ABATE

o0norton0o · Jun 16, 2017

This is the same old story...

The seller wants to get paid like he's selling you a bike that is a "runner",... so he says it could be a runner with very little work. IMO, he should spend the money and time to make it into a runner, then sell it as a running bike. I've seen many good runners bought and sold here that were unrestored, and in reasonable shape, for prices between $5 - 7,000. Just take a look at Mark's interstate in the "for sale" section here. It's beautiful, but not perfect paint. It could use an engine freshen up as he states, but runs still runs fine. He's asking $6,000. for it. When you start with a bike that is demonstrably, a reliable runner, that's worth something extra. When you start with a bike that "used to run" or "Ran when I put it in the barn 2 years ago", then you are starting with less valuable bike.

what does the seller think his bike is worth?

jimbo · Jun 16, 2017

Fullauto said:
Nice bike! If it hasn't been repainted, that is a rare colour. In fact I thought it was only MK I 850. I've never seen that colour in the flesh. The issues you speak of are fairly easily dealt with. Rebuild front master cylinder and caliper. Fork oil change. Adjusting the drive chain will not cause movement of the primary chain, but adjustment of the primary chain means you will need to adjust the final drive chain. Change all fluids etc. Take Anal Eccentric carbs and bin them. Either a new pair of Amal Premiers if you wish to punish yourself and remain fairly original or a single Mikuni VM34 if you want faultless running, good fuel consumption and little tuning and maintenance. Turn signal stalks are available. Not expensive and also available in stainless if you wish. Originality is worth SOME extra. Not lots. All parts are available and nothing expensive relative to other makes. Change tyres of course, Dunlop K81 (TT 100s) if originality is important to you or Avon Roadrider AM 26 100/90 x 19 if you prefer to have modern rubber that works.

Value will depend entirely where on the planet you are. In Australia, top dollar. Probably 14 to 15 thousand despite the issues if everything is clean and original. UK not much less, US the cheapest of all.

Should be a nice little time capsule.

looks like Tacoma, Washington

jimbo · Jun 16, 2017

Norton46 said:
What would the going value be?
Owner thinks that being all original adds lots of value.

To me ,yes it does, but not so much in dollars, does that make any sense? You have to be the right person, that would keep the originality and patina as he recommissioned it. To restore(repaint/machine polish/rechrome/gob on shiny stainless steel spokes/fasteners/etc) this bike would be a absolute travesty .

Norton46 · Jun 16, 2017

I agree with keeping the patina and doing upgrades for brakes and ignition and having a fine runner. That was my plan.
The owner wants to work down from 10K. He's thinking 7.5k, I offered 5K, which is what I think would be a good deal.
I was thinking replace all the cables, 13mm brake upgrade with SS line, caliper rebuild.
Sealed wheel bearings
Electronic ignition
Premiers
New tires and tubes
Checking the wiring and replacing the snap connectors through out.
New battery
That is 1.2K depending on what deals you can find.
The tank has fine rust on the inside top, bottom of the tank has fuel in it. That needs some tic.
Then of course there your time you put into it.

Yes it is in the Tacoma WA USA area.
One good thing is he does not want to put it on Ebay!

jimbo · Jun 16, 2017

Norton46 said:
I agree with keeping the patina and doing upgrades for brakes and ignition and having a fine runner. That was my plan.
The owner wants to work down from 10K. He's thinking 7.5k, I offered 5K, which is what I think would be a good deal.

$5000 is good nonauction money

I was thinking replace all the cables, 13mm brake upgrade with SS line, caliper rebuild.

doing the brakes a good thing, replacing good original cables ,whatever

Sealed wheel bearings/

you could repack them as they are good ones and probably ok

Electronic ignition,

you don't have to, but its a good thing for reliability

Premiers,

again the carbs don't have many miles, might be OK, with a through cleanout

New tires and tubes

for safety ,sure

Checking the wiring and replacing the snap connectors through out.

the wiring should be OK, and you can replace the lucas ends and couplers if the they are suspect use the good crimper

New battery ,

that's a good thing

That is 1.2K depending on what deals you can find.
The tank has fine rust on the inside top, bottom of the tank has fuel in it. That needs some tic.

use the nut ,screw and bolt shake method then run a inline filter and you will be good to go

lrutt · Jun 16, 2017

Norton46 said:
I agree with keeping the patina and doing upgrades for brakes and ignition and having a fine runner. That was my plan.
The owner wants to work down from 10K. He's thinking 7.5k, I offered 5K, which is what I think would be a good deal.
I was thinking replace all the cables, 13mm brake upgrade with SS line, caliper rebuild.
Sealed wheel bearings
Electronic ignition
Premiers
New tires and tubes
Checking the wiring and replacing the snap connectors through out.
New battery
That is 1.2K depending on what deals you can find.
The tank has fine rust on the inside top, bottom of the tank has fuel in it. That needs some tic.
Then of course there your time you put into it.

Yes it is in the Tacoma WA USA area.
One good thing is he does not want to put it on Ebay!

Damn, I gave $3500 for mine that was pretty similar to yours. I only had to put about $700 in it to make it a good reliable runner. But that was about 10 years ago. $7500 sounds kind of steep but then maybe prices are up there now.......hope so.

BTW, I kept mine 100% as it was, including swapping out the crap Barnett clutch plates for the bronze ones to make the clutch work properly.

lrutt · Jun 16, 2017

Norton46 said:
I agree with keeping the patina and doing upgrades for brakes and ignition and having a fine runner. That was my plan.
The owner wants to work down from 10K. He's thinking 7.5k, I offered 5K, which is what I think would be a good deal.
I was thinking replace all the cables, 13mm brake upgrade with SS line, caliper rebuild.
Sealed wheel bearings
Electronic ignition
Premiers
New tires and tubes
Checking the wiring and replacing the snap connectors through out.
New battery
That is 1.2K depending on what deals you can find.
The tank has fine rust on the inside top, bottom of the tank has fuel in it. That needs some tic.
Then of course there your time you put into it.

Yes it is in the Tacoma WA USA area.
One good thing is he does not want to put it on Ebay!

IMO, you don't need all this.

check the bearings, they might be just fine
No to the EI. Points work just fine.
No to the premiers, but yes to at least putting in the premier slides.
tires yes
check wiring and clean connectors yes
fluids yes
MC rebuild yes, rebore and upgrade....not needed IMO. Mine stops pretty darn good as is. New pads though and rebuild caliper.

o0norton0o · Jun 16, 2017

Norton46 said:
I agree with keeping the patina and doing upgrades for brakes and ignition and having a fine runner. That was my plan.
The owner wants to work down from 10K. He's thinking 7.5k, I offered 5K, which is what I think would be a good deal.
I was thinking replace all the cables, 13mm brake upgrade with SS line, caliper rebuild.
Sealed wheel bearings
Electronic ignition
Premiers
New tires and tubes
Checking the wiring and replacing the snap connectors through out.
New battery
That is 1.2K depending on what deals you can find.
The tank has fine rust on the inside top, bottom of the tank has fuel in it. That needs some tic.
Then of course there your time you put into it.

Yes it is in the Tacoma WA USA area.
One good thing is he does not want to put it on Ebay!

You two aren't too far apart. As a commando owner, I would like to see all commandos be worth as much as possible. At $10,000. he's completely tripping off his ass. If his bike was a runner, I could see him asking $7,500. but his bike doesn't run. It needs carbs, tires, a front brake rebuild and to be gone over top to bottom. I think your offer of $5,000 is fair. He may get more than that for his bike, but I doubt he'll get $7,500., but you never know. Maybe Jay Leno wants to finally get a commando in his stable of bikes... 8)

cliffa · Jun 16, 2017

lrutt said:
Maybe Jay Leno wants to finally get a commando in his stable of bikes...

He has at least one (a JPN) already.

Cheers,

cliffa

CanukNortonNut · Jun 16, 2017

You two aren't too far apart. As a commando owner, I would like to see all commandos be worth as much as possible. At $10,000. he's completely tripping off his ass. If his bike was a runner, I could see him asking $7,500. but his bike doesn't run. It needs carbs, tires, a front brake rebuild and to be gone over top to bottom. I think your offer of $5,000 is fair. He may get more than that for his bike, but I doubt he'll get $7,500., but you never know. [/quote]

+1
I agree
Cheers,
Thomas

Dances with Shrapnel · Jun 16, 2017

From all I read above, good advice.

I suggest you compile a list of the things you must do including:
tires & tubes,
replace fuel lines,
deal with carbs/slides,
new battery,
flush and replace fluids,
service/clean fuel tank,
fix brakes, check,
services and set the isolastics (safety),
check and lube swingarm spindle bushings,
inspect and replace sprockets as indicated,
new rear chain,
fresh plugs and a tune up,
...etc)
and get a reasonable cost associated with them. These are the knowns.

Compile another list which includes a SWAG of labor costs to pay someone to do the work - regardless of whther you plan to do some or all of the fixes yourself. These are the estimates.

Keep in mind there may be a few no see'ums such as dried seal(s), bent valve, stuck ring(s), spun bearing or broken crank so factor that cost in as an element of $ risk.

Now you will be in a position (in your mind) as to determine what this bike is worth based on the price of a runner in good working order. Factor in any provenance or special aspect the bike may have.

I don't recall seeing an orange/gold one and vaguely recall maybe the high rider model as coming in an orange color.

grandpaul · Jun 16, 2017

Looks like a nice survivor.

If I were the buyer, I'd sure HOPE to grab it for $5K.

If I were selling it, I'd have it running and test-rideable, and stick closer to the $7,500 number for sure. In fact, it would be worth a bit of additional investment to have it totally serviced and street legal with current tags, where it could fetch a lot more. $10K isn't unreasonable for that bike if it were ready to ride cross-country.

...in my opinion; which, as we know...

CanukNortonNut · Jun 16, 2017

Dances with Shrapnel said:
From all I read above, good advice.

I suggest you compile a list of the things you must do including:
tires & tubes,
replace fuel lines,
deal with carbs/slides,
new battery,
flush and replace fluids,
service/clean fuel tank,
fix brakes, check,
services and set the isolastics (safety),
check and lube swingarm spindle bushings,
inspect and replace sprockets as indicated,
new rear chain,
fresh plugs and a tune up,
...etc)
and get a reasonable cost associated with them. These are the knowns.

Compile another list which includes a SWAG of labor costs to pay someone to do the work - regardless of whther you plan to do some or all of the fixes yourself. These are the estimates.

Keep in mind there may be a few no see'ums such as dried seal(s), bent valve, stuck ring(s), spun bearing or broken crank so factor that cost in as an element of $ risk.

Now you will be in a position (in your mind) as to determine what this bike is worth based on the price of a runner in good working order. Factor in any provenance or special aspect the bike may have.

I don't recall seeing an orange/gold one and vaguely recall maybe the high rider model as coming in an orange color.

Doing the Twist with Lady Shrapnel,
You are right on with the list to look at that will need to be addressed (all those unseen or heard variables) right out of the gate. A no runner shows just a bunch of parts put together of unknowns.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

grandpaul · Jun 16, 2017

As unmolested as it appears, and as low mileage as it shows, I'd say the unknowns are PROBABLY low-risk, with the compression readings they got...

CanukNortonNut · Jun 16, 2017

grandpaul said:
As unmolested as it appears, and as low mileage as it shows, I'd say the unknowns are PROBABLY low-risk, with the compression readings they got...

Grandpaul,
If it is low risk then the owner could have it up and running to get his asking price. No?
thinking out loud. I still agree what dances stated. I bike that sits needs alot of attention with the details described.
Cheers,
Thomas

I know this has been asked before but

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