I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)

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Well sure if engine cases leak then wise to rig up a 'safe' shut off rather than tear down to crank and back up - like I'm in process of doing to Trixie [again], who did not leak out bottom of cases and drained over a qt out from DS and TS of engine opening after sitting since fall. If rings/bore worn some smoke expected on heavy wet sump splashes so not bad idea to stifle the coking phase with less sump oil. Too much and not enough applies to many things so gaining control of wet sump is worth while how ever its done 'safely'. Of course if I'm at a rally and see a gas ball valve I'll laugh out loud pointing and pointing just for fun.
 
Hi Gents. Found this old post, hope someone is watching.
I have a 650ss. It wet sumps like a beast.
I have dreamed about an ignition switch/oil petcock combo that would solve this infernal nuisance. I have heard mutterings that such a wondrous device exists for purchase. Can anyone direct me to one?. I would rather buy one than build one....
 
Regardless of what cure you come up with, the fast wet sumping is an indicator the pump clearances are excessive and oil pressure will be low. Fixing that would be first on the list and may mean nothing further is needed.
 
There is one available in the UK that looks to be a very tidy little unit, barely noticeable on the bike. Looks well made too.
Some other offerings are quite ugly.
I'll find the link and post it here.

Glen
 
I used the Holland Norton valve and oil pressure gauge. Works for me, 60 psi on startup, 40 psi highway speeds, 10 psi at idle when warm. No wet sumping any issues with oil supply is readily apparent.
 
My solution was to fit a PEX type stainless ball valve with brass housing. Fit nicely on the stock oil line. Made a bracket from alu flat stock to hold a NO microswitch that is actuated via the valve turn knob. Wired switch inline to the white ignition switch line. Works a teat and ran me only $10 or $15 in parts.

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)


On the bike showing the microswitch and bracket:

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)


If you are not into making your own, then the one linked above from ebay seller motopartsinc is a good one but too spendy for me.
 
I overhauled the oil pump and leave the engine at or near TDC after shutdown.
Drain-back into the crankcase eliminated.

Everyone has their own way of addressing a problem on their bike, who am I to criticize the aesthetic influence, I'm not riding it and if it works for them more power to them.
 
There was an elderly (ahem)gentleman at Barber one year selling a yellow 750 Roadster. As soon as he got a firm offer, he set about pulling the Mk III timing cover to replace it with an older type. Said no way was he was selling his non-wet sumping cover with the bike. Is that sufficient or does the pump need the AMR-type mods too? The Mk III engine in the SS clone wet sumps very little over time. The Titanic's '73 850 motor drops it's load in no time at all.
 
More than a few Norton engines have been destroyed by some foolproof contraption in the oil pump intake line. None, that I know of, have ever been destroyed by wet sumping. Forewarned is fore armed.
 
this oil valve and switch from motorradrestauration looks very nice.
can this be ordered?

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
 
JimC said:
More than a few Norton engines have been destroyed by some foolproof contraption in the oil pump intake line. None, that I know of, have ever been destroyed by wet sumping. Forewarned is fore armed.
Click to expand...


There have been zero reports of this type of valve causing engine failure.
There have been multiple reports of the spring loaded automatic valve like you fitted causing total engine destruction.
These are two completely different things that look different and operate differently.


Glen
 
worntorn said:
There have been zero reports of this type of valve causing engine failure.
There have been multiple reports of the spring loaded automatic valve like you fitted causing total engine destruction.
These are two completely different things that look different and operate differently.


Glen
Click to expand...

Bullshit! Reports of those shutoff valves causing engine destruction have been noted elsewhere as well as this forum. And that’s just from those not ashamed to admit the mistake.

Not only is there the constant possibility of these Gyro Gearloose contraptions failing to open, shutting off the oil supply to the pump while the engine is off will cause the pump to loose it’s prime.

I don’t give a rip if you blowup your Norton, but don’t encourage some inexperienced newbie to do so.
Putting a shut off valve in the oil pump intake line is akin to playing Russian Roulette.
 
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