how to remove the certification label from the frame?

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Lorenzo

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I am stripping down the frame to powdercoat it and I am at the point to remove the certification label, which I will replace as soon as the frame will be powdercoated..
then, I was wondering how I can remove it without damaging at all..
Thank you for helping!
 
Simple, take a dill bit the size of the rivet and drill the head off. Use a center punch first. You might want to make a flat surface on the head first using a flat file.
 
I just removed mine last night by cutting a slot in the riviot head and turned them out with a screw driver
 
Guido said:
Simple, take a dill bit the size of the rivet and drill the head off. Use a center punch first. You might want to make a flat surface on the head first using a flat file.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do it this way. It's threaded so it's better to "unscrew" them out.
 
Don't remove it at all..... your powder coater can cover it so you won't have to remove it. I've had 3 frames done and never removed any of them.....If your guy knows what he is doing it won't be a problem.

Tim_S
 
Tim_S said:
Don't remove it at all..... your powder coater can cover it so you won't have to remove it. I've had 3 frames done and never removed any of them.....If your guy knows what he is doing it won't be a problem.

Tim_S
Click to expand...

Thank you Tim: I have a newly one done from Andover Norton in order to replace the old one..
of course, I will keep the old one and I wish to be able not to damage it..

on another note, the idea of rboyd to cut a slot and unscrew it seems good..
 
How 'bout this...I removed three of mine by cutting a slot and unscrewing but the forth broke so I drilled it and punched it out!
 
You know what, you learn something new everyday. I never knew they were threaded in rivets.
I was told from Phil Radford that they were rivets and to just cold chisel the heads off and punch the stem into the neck.
So they are threaded, huh?
Who'd a thunk. Makes sense.
Mine got chewed up from the fairing support when it had the Dunstall kit on. Haven't replaced it yet
 
I was able to get three of them by twisting them out with a pair of vicegrips, on the last one the head came off. I punched it out. Either way was pretty easy.
 
They are soft and they are not threaded like screws, more like a twisted nail. So there are not threads in the frame to destroy if you punch them out.
 
Doubt the rivets are threaded, Parker rivets [self tappers]cut a spiral as they are knocked in, looks like a thread at a glance..but aint.
Personaly i would tap into the head stock bore a tappered bar just undersize, this will force the rivets out from the inside enough to get some vice grips on the head, twist them out anti-clockwise. or a crow bar will do the trick.
Chiseling will damage the alloy plate holes,and will make the holes oval.
 
I think the ridges in the rivets are there so that they'll bind in the hole when they are pounded in, they could have been straight for that matter because there's no actual threading involved.
 
properly called escutcheon screws, they are used to attach placards on industiral machinery, among other decorative applications
 
When you drive them in, take an old 3/8" bolt, drill a small shallow hole in the head and use that to pound them in so you don't flatten the tops.

how to remove the certification label from the frame?


Dave
69S
 
I tried drilling mine, but even with center punching them I had a hard time getting the drill bit to bite. I ended using a cold chisel and hammer and knocked the heads off of then drove the body of the rivet through the other side with a punch. If you're planning on putting on a new plate this is the quickest and easiest way to go about it and did surprisingly little damage to the tag.
 
The rivets that are used to fix general machine labels are Parker Kalon type U hardened fixing screws,made originaly by Nettlefolds , GKN bought the company and is the "N" in GKN.
These original spiral knock in self tappers are very hard and undrillable, It appears from forum members Norton used a combination of softer rivets as some are drillable.
 
I drilled mine out and pop-rivetted it back on. How much less is my bike worth now? Will it affect the top speed? :shock:
 
They are also known as "drive screws". I re-positioned my plate to the top of the main frame tube under the seat because my fairing attachment bracket fit's over the front of the headstock. It's much easier to read the numbers where it is now, I can't understand why it wasn't fitted there in the first place!

Dave.
 
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