Hi, I am installing new isolastics - verier adjustable type - into the front cradle. The new outer rubbers are the same diameter as the tube and seem to need an awful lot of force, even when using lots oil as a lubricant, to get them inserted. I am concerned that the use of screwdrivers as levers could rip the rubbers or too much force could even tear the rubbers from the shaft. Is there a technique or piece of equipment I should be using to make this job easier? Thanks in anticipation. Trev.
How do you fit isolastic rubbers?
- Thread starter Trev
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Please do NOT use oil or grease or any petro based lube.
Clean all that off the rubbers and off the inside of the cradle real good.
Petro based lubes cause the rubber to deteriorate and break down.
Get some Silicone spray lubricant at any auto parts store, use it on the rubbers and inside of cradle, won't harm the rubbers. Use it liberally.
Clean all that off the rubbers and off the inside of the cradle real good.
Petro based lubes cause the rubber to deteriorate and break down.
Get some Silicone spray lubricant at any auto parts store, use it on the rubbers and inside of cradle, won't harm the rubbers. Use it liberally.
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You really should use rubber lube for this task. Grease or even silicone breaks down the rubber. You can get rubber lube from people who sell tire mounting supplies.
Here is my favorite product.
http://www.ipcol.com/shopexd.asp?id=31
It makes installation a breeze. Jim
Here is my favorite product.
http://www.ipcol.com/shopexd.asp?id=31
It makes installation a breeze. Jim
Plumbers grease worked great for me. Absolutely non corrosive to rubber.
Turn this little gizmo up on my Smithy. Tapered with lip, driver and stop.
I changed out the front this summer when I noticing it drop off center with the DT type head steady. No vertical support. Also put the stock steady back on for much better overall handling. Also homemade.
Turn this little gizmo up on my Smithy. Tapered with lip, driver and stop.
I changed out the front this summer when I noticing it drop off center with the DT type head steady. No vertical support. Also put the stock steady back on for much better overall handling. Also homemade.
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Nowadays I just spray with sillycon then pound in with socket of appropriate tube and don't be gentle. It may surprise you how easy they suddenly sink in and calibrates the rest of your taps to center. I don't recommend pounding on the center tube as may tend to separate adhesion and mare the threads. Prior I've fiddled em in by fingers and pry tools. The soonest smoothest Commando I've ever ridden was Peel, whose front doughnuts I trimmed edges so only half width rim remained to contact iso mount. I stuffed extra full width doughnuts in rear to delay the inevitable sag factor.
Always wondered - if/why the small OD donuts are needed. I've never seen evidence that they are ever contacted, even from wheelie or leap landing impacts and various crashes and impacts.
Always wondered - if/why the small OD donuts are needed. I've never seen evidence that they are ever contacted, even from wheelie or leap landing impacts and various crashes and impacts.
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pvisseriii said:
Plumbers grease works without damage to the rubber but it stays around a long time. You really want the lube to go away so the rubber sticks to the metal . This makes the rubber last longer.
Norton used to suggest using gasoline. It make the rubber slippery but evaporated quickly enough that it did little damage to the rubber and left no residue. Not a very safe suggestion.
By the way if you go to the p80 site above you can click on the free sample link and get a small bottle for free. Enough to do a lifetime worth of isolastics. Jim
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comnoz said:
Maybe when gas didn't have all the crap in it as it does now.
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I've done front iso 3x's in last couple weeks, slowly creeping up on milling mount down till a one man task to fit in frame and still be able to turn the adjuster.
I have been using a Teflon power in fast evap carrier, then put a wood drift on the center tube and use a 3# sludge with one strong BAP to dive it most the way in one swing then fine tune with more lesser Raps. Work the first rubber in rim with down pressure and blunt probe to assist. I used same dry Teflon lube on the sliding washers too. I see how much grit grease collects so also fit the booties.
I had such nice smoothness on trimming Peel's iso rim on bench grinder to about 1/2 thick edge, did the same with Trixie to see if she also likes it that way.
Very little is mentioned in manual about big hammers and wood pieces, but can hardly do much w/o em.
I have been using a Teflon power in fast evap carrier, then put a wood drift on the center tube and use a 3# sludge with one strong BAP to dive it most the way in one swing then fine tune with more lesser Raps. Work the first rubber in rim with down pressure and blunt probe to assist. I used same dry Teflon lube on the sliding washers too. I see how much grit grease collects so also fit the booties.
I had such nice smoothness on trimming Peel's iso rim on bench grinder to about 1/2 thick edge, did the same with Trixie to see if she also likes it that way.
Very little is mentioned in manual about big hammers and wood pieces, but can hardly do much w/o em.
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