Homestretch....

I'm really trying to finish up now that I have time and space. I thought I'd share some pics as I go. The economy tanking combined with some health issues put my project on the back burner for awhile. Hopefully the planets have aligned...

My bike is finally in my home shop(shed) after being stuck in my living room for a year. I had too many tools and materials from downsizing last year to fit it in there till recently.


For the record I consider this spacer to be a real pita to get installed, atleast when everything is new it is. Notice where I dented the disc cover? Ughh !!


I noticed my right fork leg has been dripping from this slotted screw?? The local d-bag who helped me when I first got my bike, rebuilt the forx. I'm wondering what he screwed up? This is on top of not paying me for all the parts I gave him or finishing the work he had been paid for, but that's another story...


I don't like the sharp bend in the oil lines. Any ideas about bending those supply and return pipes on the oil junction block?


Here's a few other pics for the interested...

When I got it...


Frame back from being straightened...


RH10 goodness after Jim and Matt's handiwork..


Fairly customized roadster tank...


Cheers,

Brad

The bikes looking very nice.
I fitted one of these: http://www.stevemaney.com/products/Oil% ... 0block.jpg
It allows the rubber pipes to butt right up to the junction block, allowing a more gradual bend around the gearbox.
I fitted one as I see the original set up as a catastrophic 'fractured pipe' failure possibility!

Nice man-cave and project. The oil lines you need are called herringbone. Or you can go nuts with braided stainless just make sure no rubbing or chafing anywhere !

Looks nice!, who did the frame? did you send the cradle and swingarm also?

Vince

Snorton74 said:

I don't like the sharp bend in the oil lines. Any ideas about bending those supply and return pipes on the oil junction block?

Click to expand...

The 850 Mark 1A, Mark IIA and Mark III use a different oil junction block p/n 064134. It's bent down so that the oil hoses will clear the plastic airbox and it also gives the hoses a more natural, relaxed routing. That might be what you are looking for. The only disadvantage is that your top gearbox bolt is a little harder to get to for primary chain adjustments.

Snorton74 said:

For the record I consider this spacer to be a real pita to get installed, atleast when everything is new it is. Notice where I dented the disc cover? Ughh !!

Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my Norton. I ended up shortening the right hand spacer about .075 inches and that made all of the difference in the world. After I did this mod I checked the drive chain alignment and it checked fine.

Keep up the good work your bike looks great.

Fast Eddie said:

The bikes looking very nice.
I fitted one of these: http://www.stevemaney.com/products/Oil% ... 0block.jpg
It allows the rubber pipes to butt right up to the junction block, allowing a more gradual bend around the gearbox.
I fitted one as I see the original set up as a catastrophic 'fractured pipe' failure possibility!

Click to expand...

Exactly what I'm looking for. Gratsi

Unclviny said:

Looks nice!, who did the frame? did you send the cradle and swingarm also?

Vince

Click to expand...

I sent the cradle and swingarm to Matt for the treatment and they let me know it was a rhombus. I ordered a new one from Rabers and had it sent directly to CNW. Then I'm worried my frame is bent too so I built a crate and shipped it to Colorado! Sure enough it was bent at the headstock so it was shipped to GT Enterprises in CA. Verne Fueston runs the place and is a one man operation. He used to work for Buchanans back in the day when they did that kind of thing. You can buy some really trick parts for the amount of money I spent shipping my frame around...

Snorton74 said:

I noticed my right fork leg has been dripping from this slotted screw?? The local d-bag who helped me when I first got my bike, rebuilt the forx. I'm wondering what he screwed up? This is on top of not paying me for all the parts I gave him or finishing the work he had been paid for, but that's another story...

Cheers,

Brad

Click to expand...

Brad,
There should be a fiber washer under that screw. May be it is missing.
Part # 000203 item 12
Cheers
Tom
CNN

Thanx for the suggestion Tom. It has a washer that came with an AN rebuild kit. I think it was an AN kit... Washer seems to be similar to gasket material as best I can tell. Bolt was nipped up good. I noticed as the bolt was out that it made a big drip ever few seconds instead of dripping steadily. Not sure if that means anything.? My forx have been sticking since I can remember. You push down on them and they stick for a second or two then rebound.

PeterJoe said:

Snorton74 said:

I don't like the sharp bend in the oil lines. Any ideas about bending those supply and return pipes on the oil junction block?

Click to expand...

The 850 Mark 1A, Mark IIA and Mark III use a different oil junction block p/n 064134. It's bent down so that the oil hoses will clear the plastic airbox and it also gives the hoses a more natural, relaxed routing. That might be what you are looking for. The only disadvantage is that your top gearbox bolt is a little harder to get to for primary chain adjustments.

Snorton74 said:

For the record I consider this spacer to be a real pita to get installed, atleast when everything is new it is. Notice where I dented the disc cover? Ughh !!

Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my Norton. I ended up shortening the right hand spacer about .075 inches and that made all of the difference in the world. After I did this mod I checked the drive chain alignment and it checked fine.

Keep up the good work your bike looks great.

Click to expand...

Thanx.

Lovely looking bike, Brad.
Did you change anything on the tank other than the filler? I have been considering the Comatlas tank that Ross Thompson makes from an Atlas tank.
The Roadster tanks look great but the range is a bit small for touring. I recently toured for 1200 miles with a group of bikes, mostly Vincents but one Commando with Roadster tank. Riding two plus luggage, he needs to start looking for gas every fifty miles. If he waits till 75 -80, there might not be any and somewhere around 100 he runs out!!


Glen

The chain line is good but the fender won't stay aligned when the tailpiece is tightened down. Notice how the tailpiece doesn't line up with the frames spine?? I'm starting to think the fender holes aren't in the right spot or maybe the tailpiece is flawed. Anybody else have issues with this?

worntorn said:

Lovely looking bike, Brad.
Did you change anything on the tank other than the filler? I have been considering the Comatlas tank that Ross Thompson makes from an Atlas tank.
The Roadster tanks look great but the range is a bit small for touring. I recently toured for 1200 miles with a group of bikes, mostly Vincents but one Commando with Roadster tank. Riding two plus luggage, he needs to start looking for gas every fifty miles. If he waits till 75 -80, there might not be any and somewhere around 100 he runs out!!


Glen

Click to expand...

Thanks Glen. We had to open the bottom a little to make room for the gas to flow in. Not very much though so fill ups will be a little slower. I talked to Evan Wilcox a couple of years ago about making me an enlarged Roadster tank, unfortunately money and time prevented me from ordering one. Eventually....

I got to thinking about your leaking fork leg drain plug and when I overhauled my forks awhile ago I discovered that I had not one but two gaskets under the drain screw. One was embedded into the fork leg for a long time and I didn't even notice it at first. Maybe you still have another gasket embedded in your fork leg that is possibly split or cracked causing your fork leg to leak. If not check the gasket surface. If it is damaged you can always spot face the gasket surface with a correct sized counter bore and pilot.

Once you get the fork leak fixed, loosen all the fork, fender, and axle fixing hardware slightly.

Compress the forks and they should immediately rebound smoothly. If not, they'll need to come apart and sort the stiction in the stanchions, lowers, and bushings. Start by loosening the seal retainer lugs slightly; if that doesn't get it smoother, it's in to the bushings you go.

Certainly if the forks are extracted from the yokes, they should individually compress and rebound very smoothly. If not, then it's easy enough to see if you have a problem in one, or both forks.

Once the individual forks are sorted, re-install (snug but not tight), and tighten the axle hardware then test again. If not smooth, sort the misalignment of the axle to the fork lowers. If smooth, proceed upwards.

Next is the front fender mount. Test, sort and proceed upwards to the lower yoke, and lastly the upper yoke.

If you get all the way to the top and the stiction re-appears, go back down one level at a time and pinpoint where your issue lies.

Sometimes it helps to try tightening any level with the forks compressed, and re-test. (takes two people)

Ugh, if not just bad assembly, only two things I know of to cause delayed fork action, crusty rust inside stanchions or bent stanchions. Rolling stanchions against each other reveals truness. Some slight bend can be compensated by marking and twisting stanchion so their bend is mostly parallel, but rarely are both stanchion bent the same amount. Good point on checking for mashed down hidden washers or gaskets, oil filters too.

Considering the damage to my original primary cover, the bent swingarm, and twisted headstock, I wouldn't be surprised if a stanchion was bent. Maybe 'the hinge' got the best of a previous owner... Thanx for all the advice you guys.

ugh that's the same list as my deer struck Trixie suffered and so must the poor pilot off of yours. These Cdo are like pigs in a poke. Takes me about 1000 miles not to expect some issue to arise, sometimes by me checking stuff that disturbing something else to chase. Trixie frame got tweaked too so kind of sprung askew on dissassembly and a bugger with helper to beat bash and level and mill to assemble again but no issue on hands off tracking to riding into beginnings of Hinged Handling Horrors. Sticky forks feels like a ghost trying to help steer away form your expectataions.

Snorton74 said:

The chain line is good but the fender won't stay aligned when the tailpiece is tightened down. Notice how the tailpiece doesn't line up with the frames spine?? I'm starting to think the fender holes aren't in the right spot or maybe the tailpiece is flawed. Anybody else have issues with this?

Click to expand...

That rear mud guard looks like it is sitting over to the left. Also the tail lamp housing seems to be sitting crooked on it or is that just an illusion.
If the leak oil only drips out it could mean there is crud in the bottom of the shock, so pumping the forks up and down should pump the oil out. It will probably look very grey when it comes out. Have patience when adding the new 150 mls as it is a pric of a slow job.
all the best. Nice looking bike though. Doesn't chrome look good when its new. Better than stainless that's for sure.

I'm starting to think my exit hole for blind wiring my taillight is off a bit and as a result the bracket is pulling the fender to the left. I've heard the rear is often 3/16" to the left but mine is about twice that.