- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Joe Piska in NY educated me with this so passing it on. Joe's building one up modeled off Ms Peel's set up so will see if gets as slap happy as it made me. hobot
Good that you bought a stock spindle. Note the super smooth ground finish on the O.D. That's what you need to run against any kind of plain bearing, bronze or plastic.
Your are right about those MKIII machined slots. They won't matter if you don't use them the way the MKIII does.
Most engineers (myself included) use the "hole dominant system" when we design stuff. That means basically you try to make the hole a standard size,
(weather metric or American standard) and make your shafts a little under-size for sliding fits, and a little oversize for press fits. The reasoning is that its a lot easier to turn a custom shaft than it is to bore a custom hole.
In their infinite wisdom, Norton engineers also followed the "hole dominant system" when they could, and the swing arm is a perfect example. For the cradle hole you want .8750 which is exactly a standard 7/8".
This should be easy to do since all you have to do is buy or borrow a 7/8" reamer. Try to borrow one if you can or get a machine shop to do it for you. A 7/8" high speed steel reamer will set you back close to $100 bucks.
One other word of caution: When reaming you want to drill or bore within say 1/64 (.015") of the finished size. Then with plenty of cutting fluid use a drill press or a milling machine for the finished ream. The ream will follow the
drilled hole, so you need to get the hole drilled straight and accurate using a machine tool. If you try this with a hand drill you will most likely ruin your cradle.
When done right the hole should have a nice smooth accurate bore that is exactly 7/8". Your spindle will fit in so smooth and tight you will not be able to feel it wiggle around.