I bought it from Phil Radford in 1997. It had 20470 miles then and I’m fairly confident that was accurate. The following 40,000+ miles are mine.Impressive numbers , do you know if accurate of distance travelled ?
Looking for original Commando owners with mileage closing on 100,000.
"....... and shares some of the secrets of successful ownership""Tony Page has clocked up over 250,000 miles in 37 years on his Commando,... "RealClassic | March 2010 | Single Issue | Classic Magazines
RealClassic | March 2010 | Single Issue | Classic Magazineswww.classicmagazines.co.uk
I would feel very confident buying it from Phil.Also glad to see that odometer reading.Good for you!Have you had the lower end apart?I bought it from Phil Radford in 1997. It had 20470 miles then and I’m fairly confident that was accurate. The following 40,000+ miles are mine.
The bottom end was rebuilt in ‘97-‘98 so has 40,000 miles and seems in very good condition. Top end was rebored to +.040” at that time. The whole machine was restored at that time as it sat for 20 years and was in three lumps. These are normal wear points. What I’m thinking is wear on things like wheel and engine castings, frame sections…etc.I would feel very confident buying it from Phil.Also glad to see that odometer reading.Good for you!Have you had the lower end apart?
Mike
That’s what I’m looking for. Did your uncle mention any worn out castings or frame sections?My late uncle was at nearly 200,000 miles on his '74 Mk 2 when he was killed in an accident in June of 1993. He was the local Norton mechanic / guru in South Western Ontario. Wish he was still here to ask what he had to do to it to get that kind of mileage out of it....
No, do not recall him mentioning anything like that. There are 2 things that I do remember - he had the exhaust port threads repaired and the Amal carbs sleeved. The only other mod I remember is that he put a Lucas Powerbase alternator on when they were first introduced.That’s what I’m looking for. Did your uncle mention any worn out castings or frame sections?
Yep it's worth doing the oversize studs I did the same on my 750 when I built it77,000 plus on Mitzi (my Mk3) Had to repair the g/box cradle when i got her as the bottom lefthand 'ear' had broken off (that the bottom engine bolt goes through) At the same time fitted slightly oversize engine studs through reamed holes fastening the engine to the cradle. This is one of the procedures outlined in the tuning notes published by Norton back in the day. This stops the engine jiggling around in the cradle and helps keep the g/box alignment to what it should be. Did the same to the g/box (made and fitted close fitting studs), with the plain section long enough to span the cradle (the standard g/box and engine studs/bolts have the thread bearing on the cradle and engine alloy at one end allowing/promoting the hole to wear bigger)
At the same time fitted slightly oversize engine studs through reamed holes fastening the engine to the cradle. ... Did the same to the g/box (made and fitted close fitting studs), with the plain section long enough to span the cradle (the standard g/box and engine studs/bolts have the thread bearing on the cradle and engine alloy at one end allowing/promoting the hole to wear bigger)
Well to me pulling the motor down isn't really that hard the only thing I did was new set of crank cases and new main bearings the rest of the motor was just pulled apart rod and pistons stay on the crank, head wasn't touched or barrels didn't get touched as the motor had a rebuild a few months before the crankcases were replaced, that's was when I had the old crank case welded up had hair line cracks around the main seal area, but the it started to leak again why I decided to get another set of crank cases, so to me yes a minor job, a full rebuild is a major job to me.minor rebuild back in the late 2000 when I had to replace the crank cases
That is MINOR?....good lord!