help with stripped headsteady threads
- Thread starter openroad
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The threaded hole in the frame tube is continuous, so one longer helicoil would be appropriate.
I have gotten real sturdy (better than original) Lord mount bobbins but they have 5/16 NC threads.
I use them on the rear muffler mounts.
Depends on what type you will replace with it may be an option at this time to re-thread the hole.
I have gotten real sturdy (better than original) Lord mount bobbins but they have 5/16 NC threads.
I use them on the rear muffler mounts.
Depends on what type you will replace with it may be an option at this time to re-thread the hole.
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Once the side plates have been tightened against the head steady, the rubber mounts should then be clamped tight against the frame. They can't loosen or drop out of position (unless the engine was to drop out of the frame) so what need of a thread?
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Good point Les.
Even better, Ludwig drilled right through and fitted bolt when he did his head steady mod. Thar was the best and most simple design I have ever seen, and have now done it to both my bikes, although I didn't need to drill right through as my threads were in good order.
Dereck
Even better, Ludwig drilled right through and fitted bolt when he did his head steady mod. Thar was the best and most simple design I have ever seen, and have now done it to both my bikes, although I didn't need to drill right through as my threads were in good order.
Dereck
Bob Z. said:
mine seems to be blocked with some metal, this is looking in left side:
right side:
"Once the side plates have been tightened against the head steady, the rubber mounts should then be clamped tight against the frame. They can't loosen or drop out of position (unless the engine was to drop out of the frame) so what need of a thread?" L.A.B.
So maybe Loctite and tighten things up? I guess I thought they were kind of load bearing but thinking about it... pretty small bolts to carry much load.
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I struggled with mine just yesterday. I had to make an ugly face (worse than normal) and use all of my might, and the biggest pair of vice grips I have to get mine off. Unfortunately, both bolts broke off inside the frame. I drilled them out and tapped them for a future owner since I'm going with a Dave Taylor head steady.
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Openroad,openroad said:
You could use a Dave Taylor headsteady. :idea:
Much better that the original and eliminates the need to repair your threaded holes.
I use this design and have liked it very much. I use the one with the spring system. Clubman Racing has them available. http://www.clubmanracing.com/cyclepartsnorton.php
If you want it to be original then carry on with the HeliCoil Thread repair. I have never thought much of the headsteady rubber system.
Cheers,
Thomas
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Openroad:
I drilled the bolts one at a time. The first drilled hole hit something as it past the end of the bolt. The second drilled hole passed into and through the first, so I'd say "No", it wasn't blocked. In tapping it, I never saw or felt anything that would represent a blocked hole.
I drilled the bolts one at a time. The first drilled hole hit something as it past the end of the bolt. The second drilled hole passed into and through the first, so I'd say "No", it wasn't blocked. In tapping it, I never saw or felt anything that would represent a blocked hole.
concours said:
Ordered!
I'll see if I can knock out the block, looks like slag or something.tall951guy said:
Looked it up from your post, actually looks better.Danno said:
Down the road maybe, just getting it going again, maybe in time for Sturgis.CanukNortonNut said:
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