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- Sep 26, 2009
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Eddie, you are possibly right! the carb as no studs,pins or clips to retain it from the pictures....just a weird adaptor?
john robert bould said:Eddie, you are possibly right! the carb as no studs,pins or clips to retain it from the pictures....just a weird adaptor?
http://s292.photobucket.com/user/frohn-nielsen/media/P1080039_zps9f624c2e.jpg.htmlNielsen said:Thanks for your help, All. Much appreciated. I feel like such a Noob!Here are a couple of photos of the carb, left and right side, plus a photo of the Lucas electronic ignition system the bike came with. I must admit not checking/setting the float level when I rebuilt the carb. Having said that, the bike runs really well once it has started. It's getting it to catch when cold (yesterday was 18 degrees Celsius here in Vancouver. That's 64 degrees Fahrenheit.
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john robert bould said:In Dirty Harry, the guy liying on the floor with his hand a few inchs from a saw-off,looked up and asked the question. " i have gotter know" I have got to know..how is the carb fixed on? :lol:
concours said:john robert bould said:In Dirty Harry, the guy liying on the floor with his hand a few inchs from a saw-off,looked up and asked the question. " i have gotter know" I have got to know..how is the carb fixed on? :lol:
It was a blued S&W model 29, 8-3/8. That's like sayin the Easyrider movie featured Honda's... :lol:
Nielsen said:The manifold is indeed just opened up and the carb is a press-fit into it, but a very tight one at that. I have no idea why he did this, and I can't ask him. He died a dozen years ago. I don't detect any air leaks, but it sounds like a good idea to replace the manifold and get a rubber collar. I did wonder about vibration, especially when I see the stock MK II with the rubber mounting collar.
He may have done it so he could fit that thick air cleaner. My thinking, however, is that I could easily cut the thickness of the air cleaner, thus giving me space for a rubber collar between the manifold and the carb.
Nielsen said:Hi All: Firstly, thanks for your support with getting my '74 Commando roadworthy. I must begin to say that I'm new to all this..... I've finally got the bike licensed and insured, and have now taken it on the road. Once up to temperature, it runs very well indeed. I stalled it once, and one kick and it fired right up. BUT..... Starting it cold is horrible. I have a single Amal concentric Mark II with an 'enricher' rather than tickler. When I kick it over, it fires for perhaps half a second, and it doesn't seem to make any difference whether I have the enricher on or not. It will not catch. Over and over, either nothing, or it catches for a half second or so..... Could this be too lean? Any advice will be gratefully accepted!
jseng1 said:The electoric ignitions do not spark the 1st revolution - you don't get spark until the 2nd revolution so you have to kick the hell out of it.
concours said:john robert bould said:In Dirty Harry, the guy liying on the floor with his hand a few inchs from a saw-off,looked up and asked the question. " i have gotter know" I have got to know..how is the carb fixed on? :lol:
It was a blued S&W model 29, 8-3/8. That's like sayin the Easyrider movie featured Honda's... :lol:
john robert bould said:No it was a pump action on the ground ...Clint had the .44 magnum. Now i know what your thinking? did i fire 5 shots or six as this is the most powerfull hand gun in the world...that could blow your head clean off! do you feel lucky...well..... do ya Punk.?
concours said:john robert bould said:In Dirty Harry, the guy liying on the floor with his hand a few inchs from a saw-off,looked up and asked the question. " i have gotter know" I have got to know..how is the carb fixed on? :lol:
It was a blued S&W model 29, 8-3/8. That's like sayin the Easyrider movie featured Honda's... :lol: