Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by alan hodge, Dec 5, 2018.
Thanks baz, small movement is the only explanation I can imagine …
That's just the kind of straightforward answer I was hoping for, Craig, thank you! I have a 'Norvil' head steady and have ridden my Commando for long distances, for example from Brighton to Cornwall in a single trip (about 280 miles; then back again, obv!), and never felt my hands to be numb – my butt is another matter, but let's not go there! Anyway I've always been curious about the DT head steady, now I feel clearer. For numb hands, I have memories especially of a BSA A65 as the kind of thing to avoid – I sold it because the vibes were just too awful. With hindsight I could probably have worked at that, but I was young …! Cheers.
To be fair , I did have a physical issue with both my wrists , driving , sleeping , riding etc. , even holding a fork .... in this past 10 months have had both hands surgically repaired , no big deal and a huge relief , ( managed to post photo in the modern section for Nigel of first go round ) so that has obviously helped .... but the Norton is now just the lovely smooth , quick machine I had in mind when I found it ....
I do sympathise – I have trouble with other joints, and I know someone who had problems with their wrists when still quite young, which limited their enjoyment of cycling, for which they were hugely enthusiastic. I'd like to try adding a MK3-style spring affair to my MK2A some day, I think that'd probably help.
I have the CNW Comstock head steady with spring on a MK3 feels perfect highly recommended, bigger rose joints very strong! My other MK3 had an Old Brits adjustable shim type that too felt good.....
Yes ,as in all things , more than one way to skin a cat , eh ....
You did Craig and thanks for trying to help...
But I’m still recovering just from looking at that picture...!
I don't have a DT head steady in front of me but I fitted one to my 1974 850 Roadster about a month ago. CNW were out of stock with their version.
From memory of the dimensions I just did a quick calculation to determine how far the arc described by the bar bobbing up and down could be. I got less than 2 thou up or down from the neutral position. Or 4 thou in total. So this would be less than the standard setting for the front and rear isolastic shimming. So the effect is negligible.
So far as my experience of the DT head steady is concerned -
I was replacing a rather beaten up original setup so there was lots of potential for improvement.
After the first pass at fitting here was a very good improvement on tracking in corners and I was very pleased with the improvement in handling.
However I had wound the spring up too tightly to begin with and had considerable vibration through the foot pegs above 3000 rpm. I then rechecked both front and rear iso clearances finding as usual considerable variation around the diameter and decided to set the minimum to about 8 thou. This left me with 12 thou in other places!! (Some improvement seems possible if I ever pull the bike apart) I also slacken the spring considerably - so it only just picked up the weight of the engine. Evidently it was design to control the up and down shaking of the engine at idle and low rpm. I also rechecked the movement of the rose joints while seated and on the main stand as described in the instructions.
One or all of these changes made a marked improvement and the bike now has very little vibration and still tracks very well. So I'm happy. I would have gone with the CNW version if it had been available but the DT steady has given me a very satisfactory result.
Obviously I cannot say anything about its long term reliability or wear performance yet
I made the Keith1069 headsteady from aluminum, rose joints and some bolts. It was easy enough and I liked the fact that it bolted to the original headsteady locations rather than clamping on the tube. Worked fine for me but with my old farts riding style I really didn't notice any difference. If I did it again I'd use 3/8 joints instead of the 5/16 and if you can find sealed units, that's even a plus. Somewhere I've got the Word document for the whole thing, but I can't find it at the moment. Pretty sure I had a thread about it quite a while ago.
There's a few pictures left to see.
Yup , like JohnM , I had the spring under too much tension as well , took a couple whiles to find the correct tension , then all good ..... more is not always the right path .... Nigel at this moment sitting in wait room for Plastic Surgeon to have a look at his work on my left paw .... so far all good , no more issues with either hand ... something to consider much easier than 10 minutes in Dentist chair
I’ll consider it when I have to...!
Anyone with the home brew headsteady come up with a slick way to fit the MKIII spring thingie?
Got loads more pics if you want them.
Post is informative, but I am clueless on many terms. What does "ataldited in" mean?
Think it was a spelling mistake, "Araldite" is a glue.
Hi Joe, I think it's a typo. Araldite is a (very good in it's original form) two part epoxy resin adhesive. Hence the phrase should have read "Araldited"
Read more here..
Sorry I meant to to write "araldited"
I have had a Dave Taylor head steady on my 750 and it is really effective at reducing vibration. Over 3000 revs it was really smooth. However it does not fit under the Hi Rider tank which I want to fit. The cut out in the tank is designed for the stock item. The question is will the CNW/Comstock device fit? It look as though it should, I just wondered if anyone had tried this.
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