Gearbox Preventative Maintenance

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Another few attempts trying to free up shell to remove. Seems to hit the nut for gearbox adjuster and I cannot get a decent purchase on it ( located very conveniently inside right engine cradle with no clear shot via open end wrench or socket even with a wobble connector. Can this be undone via the square block section on the outside of right cradle?
 
Surrendered on tryingto get the shell out. With increased clearances due to shell being rotationally mobile in cradle, decided to try my "bear skin & stone knives" tooling again on the bushing. Cobbled a better socket of suitable size to accept larger diameter threaded rod through its bore (the 1/4" soft metal all thread kept stripping using sockets as found). Now, with 5/16" all thread, more force could be applied and bushing began to migrate out. Still fought me for every 1/1000" but ultimately I won. That one little bushing took me 3+ days of futzing about! Got the new ones in without much ado....though the quadrant bushing seemed very tight on the quadrant spindle....had to emery paper it quite a bit the free things up for smooth insertion/rotation.
Taking a well earned break before beginning re-assembly.
 
Yup got the DVD and his rebuild kit with phenolic ball bearing for layshaft. Also studied up using OldBritts tech paper and another one I came across on Jampot...Magazine write up with Mick Hemmings. Having proper tools, full access always makes this work go so much better. I have to perform this stuff on a condominium parkade garage floor, unheated of course using whatever I can cobble together from my limited toolset.
 
Can you manage a picture? It's worth a thousand words. Regards the nut for the back side of the adjuster, no a wobble won't fit. I've always used a box end, you don' t get much of a turn. Air cleaner not in the way?
 
Figured the air cleaner might need to be removed just for that nut. More I looked at what was happening I wasn't sure that nut was the only remaining issue. Just got a bit sick of it all, for that one remaining little bushing!

What photos do you want, bushing tools used, shell removal issues?
 
As far as geargox shell removal, left and right (as included) would help us all sort you out. The adjuster and it's nut need to be removed and you haven't mentioned anything about removing the bottom two cradle bolts and hinging on the top bolt (with a jack to keep things from collapsing) which you have to do in order for the bottom gearbox lug to clear the "cutout" at the bottom right of the cradle.
Gearbox Preventative Maintenance

Gearbox Preventative Maintenance


If you'll forgive me, it sounds as if you've gone "A bushing too far". We did start with a movie theme :)
 
Today I got around to completing the button up of the AMC gearbox. All new bushes (save for the steel KS one), new bearings, new springs, new KS pawl/spring/pin, new cam plate index spring, new clutch lifter roller/nut&bolt, new gaskets and all seals. Filled with remaining Royal Purple 75W90 gear oil left over from my first change one year ago. Plan to do a short change interval after a few hundred miles...to remove any break in wear debris. Really keen to feel how clutch lever feels after discovering the very worn roller on the lifter. Won't know until primary us all back together.
Next up is to pull the swing arm spindle to fully clean it (DPO had used grease). Also taking care of oil leaking from chain oiler fitting Tee once I remove the mudguard for better access.
 
Well done, and in an unheated workspace in Canada in February....
Good luck with the spindle, mine was a serious pain to knock out, the rest was easy. Stay warm!
 
Having the primary cases fully off gives good access to the left side swing arm spindle cap. Hope to get all the grease out and renew the rubbers, put some silicone before reinstalling the caps. This is the early MKII type with the long thin bolt...not the pressed in " welch" caps on MKIII'S. I've had the spindle moving around, starting to pull out when I last tried this...but hadn't taken mudguard off and could not access to fully remove the top bolt which I discovered was holding spindle in place.
 
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Good job on getting that gearbox shell out. Last time I did one of those, I was single living in a rental so there were no issues with using the oven to remove the layshaft bearing race nor the dishwasher for cleanup thinking of other current threads.

Let us know how the spindle goes. I've done a few. Make sure someone hasn't added extra securing bolts for the spindle other than the top one. It's a common mod.

Oddly enough, I'm finishing up the R&R of a BMW transmission and swingarm. In comparison, I think the BMW might just be the easier job.
 
Good job on getting that gearbox shell out. Last time I did one of those, I was single living in a rental so there were no issues with using the oven to remove the layshaft bearing race nor the dishwasher for cleanup thinking of other current threads.

Let us know how the spindle goes. I've done a few. Make sure someone hasn't added extra securing bolts for the spindle other than the top one. It's a common mod.

Oddly enough, I'm finishing up the R&R of a BMW transmission and swingarm. In comparison, I think the BMW might just be the easier job.

As I mentioned earlier, I gave up on fully removing the shell from the frame after have difficulty accessing that adjuster nut and dreading further issues before removing it. Got the last bushing changed out with shell still in frame. I needed to up-rate my homemade push/puller technology from 1/4" all-thread rod (which as stripping threads with the force required) to a 5/16" rod (using this needed an old socket bored out to accept the larger diameter).
The swingarm is stock, no added collars or bolts, MKII with the long thin bolt holding in the caps at each end, not the MKIII type with Welch caps. I've had the spindle out once before and managed to scrap out much of the grease....but I didn't have access to left side cap b/c primary in the way. Seems a good time to go at it again now. Got to take the mudguard off first though.
 
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