I don't see them listed in the parts lists.
Are they available for replacement?
How did you get the bushings into the sleeve gear ? When I rebuilt my box , I used a socket to knock out the old and knock in the new ones ( frozen). But they got tougher to fit inside the gear to the end of the tappings . So the final 2 taps were tight ones and I think this caused the final bush to "flare" inwards a slight bit, my fingernail snagged on it to prove my suspicion. Because the mainshaft would not enter at that end ,but would on the other that was not tapped. So this could be it. I dressed the flared thin snag with a round file and the mainshaft had it's sliding fit just fine. Up to you but check.
normally they shouldn't need to be reamed.So I pushed the new bushings into the 4th-main gear sleeve and they are too tight to slip onto the main gear shaft. This implies boring or reaming.
The main shaft measures 0.81"5. The closest reamer is 13/16 which is 0.825". 0.010 bushing clearance seems like a lot.
Comments on appropriate clearance for bushings in this gearbox?
I have a friend who teaches at the local Tech school, so I get help from him for delicate work although I have a lathe at home. It's a bit of a trick to make sure you bore the bushing exactly straight down the bore of the part. With gears it's critical.Brian,
You could have just turned in an old tap into the Kick start bush and turn it in the bronze bush about 6-8 revs take the assembly with tap and clamp the tap in a soft jaw vice and wack the kick start shaft with a hide mallet to drift it out. Then use the lay-shaft to push the new bush back in. as per Hemmings video. But you have a lathe and why not use it. Looks like you did it a school. Lockers in the background. How did the kick start pawl look? YMMV
Cheers,
Tom