I use a 20 amp automotive blade fuse.
Your manual says 35 amp, but be very careful with what this actually means.
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Bear in mind the difference between the US and UK way that fuses are rated:
The British Standard used rated fuses by the current that would make them blow instantly.
The American (and now international) Standard rates fuses by the amount of current they will carry forever.
With larger fuses, it becomes an issue and you stand a chance of melting your wiring.
For example, our Norton Commando factory workshop manual (written for the Brits with the British Standard in mind) specifies a 35 amp fuse.
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A 35 amp North American fuse is around double the rating of what a 35 amp British fuse would have been back in the day.
And at this point, all the insulation would be melting off your wires before the fuse blows.
The equivalent automotive blade fuse is 17.5 amp (I upsize to 20 amp, as they are readily available)
The two typical wire sizes we see on our classic bikes, are rated as follows:
13 gauge - 17.5 amps
12 gauge - 27.5 amps
This is working current, not maximum cable capacity.
Always bear this difference in mind when reading the manuals, and replacing the fuses.
How fuses are rated now makes no difference to the way the manuals are worded in the books we've all got on our shelves.
If I bought a glass fuse from my local autostore today, it would be a 20 amp fuse, even though my manual calls for a 35 amp fuse.