Fuse but not OEM type

Status
Not open for further replies.

speirmoor

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
1,895
Country flag
Found my fuse holder had melted slightly and causing the bike to cut out randomly. Couldnt figure it out for a while but after checking key switch and kill switch I ran back towards the fuse holder and sure enough a slight tap or jiggle would make the bike cut out. So I went to the Auto store and they dont have anything 35A like the manual says. I bought these different 30A ones as I need the bike running on Sunday. I can wait to get the OEM type but in the meantime which one should I use?
Fuse but not OEM type
 
the one on the left with the weather cap BUT us a 15 amp fuse as the English ones are rated differently.
 
speirmoor said:
So I went to the Auto store and they dont have anything 35A like the manual says.

35A in the manual refers to the old Lucas 'blow' rating. Do not substitute any other type of 30A-35A fuse.

Only use alternative fuses of approximately half the 35A rating = 17A continuous rating.

15A or 20A being the nearest quivalents.

Fuse but not OEM type
 
Modern blade type fuses are available in just about every petrol station should you be out and about an run into a problem. Also they dont break like the old glass type when the fuse wire becomes detached from the metal ends.

I would use the modern blade fuse my bike has 6 separately protecting different systems.
 
I thought 35A was alot but in haste I made an error. Thanks for all the help I'll be on the road in no time :)
 
speirmoor said:
I thought 35A was alot but in haste I made an error. Thanks for all the help I'll be on the road in no time :)
I ran a 35 for a while. It never blew, thank goodnesss. After enlightenments from this forum, I now run the 20amp. It too has never blown, thank goodness. There are a half a dozen spares in the side cover just because.

Fuse but not OEM type
 
The last time I had a fuse blow because of a faulity fuse holder I used a piece of an aluminium beer can from the side of the road to get me home. I figured it as a slow blow rated fix because it was a lite beer can.. :>)
Go with the blade type fuse as mentioned.


Tim_S
 
In Ozarks we used to reach in pocket for a .22LR and get going again. But after the report of what happened at groin level truck fuse box to a pair vistiing from New Orleans, we now use spent .22 magnums nor check gas tanks with a lighter. There's funny chart on amp capacity of foil to nails in road side pickings. The glass type can also look perfectly good but lose internal connection to stimmy a good bit longer till bored and just check stuff for the heck of it waiting to see how it will get back home again. Blade type much better but more bulky to install.
 
Well I put in a 20A fuse as that's all they had other that a 15A. Bike runs fine now :)
Also I like this blade type as there's no moving parts and the fuse I got has an indicator light that lights up when its blown
Talking to another Norton guy yesterday and he had the same thing happened to him years ago. Fuse holder got hot, tab melted and the spring shot the fuse out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I got off Ebay for a ever reasonable £12 a fuse box that holds 6 mini type blade fuses in 2 rows of 3. It has a large single connection for unfused side from battery and each fuse has a small red LED which will light if fuse blows and they light even though bike is still positive earth.
Unfortunately I don't have a link for it but am sure some Ebay surfing will turn some up.
 
hobot said:
In Ozarks we used to reach in pocket for a .22LR and get going again. But after the report of what happened at groin level truck fuse box to a pair vistiing from New Orleans, we now use spent .22 magnums nor check gas tanks with a lighter.
How about looking down the barrel of your .457Mag to see why it didn't go off?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top