Fuse block setup

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V

Vulin

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May 17, 2009
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So Im going over my bike, deciding how to go about building everything. Wiring is kinda on my mind. I have a eastern beaver fuse block, which is ok. But then I cam across the M-unit from motogadget. Seems to make wiring and just about everything 10x easier. I know its quite expensive for a bit of wiring, but is less wiring generally equals less problems.
http://spieglerusa.com/gauges-instrumen ... -unit.html
 
HI,
Three hundred and twenty bucks HOLY SHIT, for that much money it better give me a buzz job while I'm driving down the road. How about something like this (also available with fuses) from Radio Shack for cheap.

Fuse block setup



GB
 
it may not matter, but that unit is very likely negative ground only. FWIW if you end up ding a DIY job West Marine and other boat suppliers sell some high quality electrical components that would work well on a bike
 
This is 2nd M-unit posted about here in a year. Shouldn't matter what ground polarity if re-wiring soup to nuts. Nice as Swooh's wiring is really neat is to me, but the M-unit has more features and components in tighter space and likely not cost that much more than a complete fused and relayed set up like Swooh's, or one I did - all summer long in '03. Took it all apart d/t re-engneering whole C-do, so I sprang for a $300+ ThunderHeart Micro Unit, just before the 1st posting of this M-unit and now not sure which I'd like best.
 
my wiring will be negative ground, and Hobot hit it on the head, neat wiring. I will no longer need fuses, relays, etc.
 
I see your setup but you still need to run relays. I was originally going to do it this way, but after seeing the M-unit, its almost too good. I have the motoclassic gauge from those guys, and its extremely well made.
 
go for it, and get it. you already know their quality is a step above- not to mention the alarm, light modulators, hazard light feature, etc.... I'm about to put mine in real soon. Forgot- each circuit is lit up by led so you know exactly where to check when you have an electrical problem

If I wasn't going to keep a somewhat stock look I'd be all over their keyless ignition and the new motoscope pro
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYCXPx_ah5Q[/video]
[video]www.youtube.com/watch?v=_44XgVSuL7s[/video]
[video]www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyp8GSr2FOY[/video]
 
i have to admit its the sexiest until I've seen and we'd all swoon to see it neatly connected and displayed. What will ya cover the wire run bundles with?
 
I love the sensation of your robust complex tidy wiring and video. This is what it was like for me in '03.
Fuse block setup


Looking forward to this little shoe eve helper kit.
Fuse block setup


PRODUCT INFORMATION

* Compact design is easily hidden on custom motorcycles
* Performs all fuse, relay and signal canceling functions in one simple package
* Provides multiple flasher combinations (signal canceling, hazard lights and tri-state indicators), running lights, brake lights and turn signal from one bulb
* Reduces size, weight and overall complexity of the electrical system
* Utilizes relays to distribute all power functions, eliminating the need to run large wires to all the switches
* Small size of controller housing allows multiple mounting locations�both visible and hidden
* Weather resistant connections for trouble-free use in extreme environments
* Comprehensive installation and troubleshooting manual to minimize installation time
http://www.pawpawcycle.com/eshopprod_ca ... E_MICR.htm
 
wiring complexities....

here's my modified Dynaco ST70 tube amp I built 4 years ago:

Fuse block setup


Fuse block setup



I can still smell the solder fumes

JD
 
Does that go under the seat or the tank?
Although I may be missing others, where is the purple and brown for the horn.
 
jeffdavison said:
wiring complexities....

here's my modified Dynaco ST70 tube amp I built 4 years ago:

Fuse block setup


Fuse block setup



I can still smell the solder fumes

JD
Click to expand...

That sir scares the shit outta me
 
nah... my Eimac tube amp at 1200 volts DC scares the crap out of me (corona discharge is unpredictable), This one only has 800 VDC.


JD
 
Here is what I did on a 1947 Triumph. The owner did not want to have to carry any key. The first one I did had a relay and was fairly complicated with a couple of switches in series to keep prying hands from turning it on. He doesn't use it very much and even the small current drain of a Podtronic rectifier / regulator would drain the battery to zero, this was compounded by his slow riding in town which didn't allow the battery to recover when he did use it. Now I have a main switch which can be seen and this completely disconnects the battery from any other circuits, there is also a hidden switch to keep the bike from being started and also the batter from being drained if someone was clever enough to find the main switch.

I have a main fuse and an alternator fuse, the circuit board really cleans up the battery box.

Fuse block setup


The black wires are for a battery tender, not needed anymore, but it's like the Everest, there, so I kept it in.

Fuse block setup


Fuse block setup


Fuse block setup


Jean
 
Jean that circuit board on battery top is the neatest install I've seen. The keyless and hidden switch style is how I'm doing Peel's deal, though don't know how I'm going to do it till I get there. Been thinking of a magnet that hold contacts closed so no obvious switch to diddle with and maybe stick in a bunch of toggles just for confusing show. I'm eyeballing those flashing neon sparking timing lights.
 
No need for sophistication one switch is the one you see in the pictures, but it is behind the battery box, so hidden from view. The other one is in the headlight shell, far away from the battery box and also hard to see. both switches must be on for the bike to run and the lights to turn on. I also tought about RFID relays, but if your battery gets low, they may not work, keep it simple and you will avoid problems.

Jean
 
hmm... all very interesting..... i opted for a set of circuit breakers on mine.... all wired in accordance with my 78 FXS harley (had to go to neg ground for all my electronic stuff anyways, so i figured i might as well wire both bikes the same)

the panel has five breakers
1. the main breaker that is is the overall safety breaker from the battery
2. the ignition breaker,
3. the breaker for the lights
4. the breaker for all other circuits... signal, horn running lights etc
5. signal flasher... not really a breaker, but fits the same holder

its nice, i don't have to worry (or buy fuses) and with #s 2,3 and 4, if there is a problem in one circuit, it doesn't compromise the other two

Fuse block setup


Fuse block setup
 
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