Forks

Status
Not open for further replies.

bryan_woods

Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
59
Hello Guys,
Ive just come from the shed after putting together my forks with new seals bushes etc. When I put them in the triple clamps I noticed that one of the forks dropped lower (longer in length about two inches) than the other. I had secured the nut underneath the slider so Im not sure why this would be the case. As well does any body know of an easy way of putting on the fork gaiters, I had to leave the shed before I lost a spanner.

Regards Bryan
 
If the shorter one hasn't jammed up then there's a good chance the damper rod/ damper has come adrift. You'd better take a look and see.

Cash
 
bryan_woods said:
When I put them in the triple clamps I noticed that one of the forks dropped lower (longer in length about two inches) than the other. I had secured the nut underneath the slider so Im not sure why this would be the case.
Click to expand...

The damper assembly reduces the total fork extension by about 1.5 inches, so I would guess that-

Either:

1. The damper rod has become detached from the fork cap nut?

2. Something is broken or loose at the lower end of the damper rod? = Damper cap broken, pulled off or has unscrewed from the damper tube?

3. The damper tube isn't fixed to the slider?

4. Are you certain both forks were the same length before you started? = Wrong length damper tube or damper rod fitted?
 
For the gaiters, warm them with a heat gun on the low setting. Then they get nice and stretchy and go on easily. OldBritts has a tech article posted with all the details (that's how I learned that technique).

Debby
 
Thanks everyone for the advice I will take the longer one off as I could feel some movement when I pulled it down. The caps looked O.K when I put them in the sliders. But I didn't pull the damper tube apart so maybe something wasn't right from the start.
Debby great Idea with the Gaiters. This will definitely save me a spanner.

Another couple of questions sorry. What size socket is used for the fork nuts and the nut for the steering head. They have exceeded all the sizes of my sockets. Finally when you tighten the fork tubes through the yokes using the fork nuts are they meant to fit flush with the surface of the top yoke?

many thanks Bryan.
 
bryan_woods said:
What size socket is used for the fork nuts and the nut for the steering head.
Click to expand...

= 1-5/16" AF

Personally I use a 3/4" Whitworth (1.3" AF) box spanner on the fork nuts, as the hexagons are thin, and a socket can slip off and damage them, although the 3/4" Whit. box spanner may need to be filed out slightly to fit?




bryan_woods said:
when you tighten the fork tubes through the yokes using the fork nuts are they meant to fit flush with the surface of the top yoke?
Click to expand...

Mine do, so I'd say yes, they should.
 
Thanks L.A.B,
I will try to tighten the stanchions to tops of the yokes. How tight should the steering head nut be tightened I cant see torque figure?

Thanks Bryan.
 
bryan_woods said:
I will try to tighten the stanchions to tops of the yokes.
Click to expand...

OK, but I wouldn't overdo it. If the recommended torque figure of 30 lbs./ft. doesn't quite pull them up flush, then I don't think I would be too concerned about it personally? However, if the stanchions are nowhere near the top of the yoke at 30 lbs./ft. then I think I'd want to check that the tapers of both parts matched up correctly?

bryan_woods said:
How tight should the steering head nut be tightened I cant see torque figure?
Click to expand...

The 1970 - '73 factory manual gives the following information:

"Steering head main nut (1971 - later) : 360 in./lb. 30 ft./lb. (4.15 Kg/m)".

And always use a tab washer (part 061912) on that nut.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top