Fork Rebuild Kit

danfr · Nov 29, 2013

Hey guys (and ladies),

I have a pretty beat up '71 Commando that I'm going to rebuild (not restore) section by section. I'm at the point where I need to rebuild my forks. There was actually NO oil in the forks. Nada.. I have seen a couple rebuild kits out there, but I haven't found any reviews. So, where are YOU getting your parts to rebuild your forks? I contacted Clubman Racing Acc about their kit and received a reply, but not with all my questions answered.

Cheers
Dan
ps. and yes I have looked into the lansdowne kit but no it's not remotely close to fitting in my budget.

concours · Nov 29, 2013

danfr said:
Hey guys (and ladies),

I have a pretty beat up '71 Commando that I'm going to rebuild (not restore) section by section. I'm at the point where I need to rebuild my forks. There was actually NO oil in the forks. Nada.. I have seen a couple rebuild kits out there, but I haven't found any reviews. So, where are YOU getting your parts to rebuild your forks? I contacted Clubman Racing Acc about their kit and received a reply, but not with all my questions answered.

Cheers
Dan
ps. and yes I have looked into the lansdowne kit but no it's not remotely close to fitting in my budget.

How do the stanchion tubes look? Pitted? $200 for Forking by Frank, top quality, $100 for EMGO

danfr · Nov 29, 2013

They're pitted where the fork ears are supposed to be. They're fine around the seals. I would love to replace many parts on this bike, but it's just not an option for me. I'm starting with the essentials and see how my finances are in the new year.

Cheers

DogT · Nov 29, 2013

The fork rebuild kit should include new seals and the associated parts, the bushing at the bottom of the stanchions, and the brass top hat style bushings too, it shouldn't cost $50 or so. But if the chrome is worn off your stanchions, all bets are off as to how long it's going to last. Find some SAE 20 fork oil to put in and don't over fill it. Flames welcome.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Nov 29, 2013

Restore as factory which works pretty well short of fairly extreme conditions or upgrade kits for more comfort zone range.
lansdown-fauth-questions-t17929.html

danfr · Nov 29, 2013

Ya I think I'll stil with stock for now. Once I have more finances and a feel for the bike, I may consider upgrades.

Where do most people purchase their rebuild kits from?

Hobot · Nov 29, 2013

First need to dissect and examine for a parts order. Roll tubes together and in any gaps seen might be able to have straigtened and may be ok even with slight light gap seen. Way more sensitive than one flat plate method. Stanchion insides get rusted up to pay attention for spring friction. You should do the simple bottom hydro stop solution, plug the lower holes on the tapper where they don't ever get covered. Kits sell alloy rods that are beat in then smoothed over some as nothing rubs by close anyway. Weld or epoxy. Then make similar size/area holes 1/2"-3/4" above damper tube bottom lip and that's it. I made one similar size hole 3/4" up then two more staggered smaller holes 5/8 & 1/2" above the tube lip for a more progressive indefinite stop/reversal action. Then diddle oil grade and fill to 175 ml but not much more. Its was Roadholders that gave Nortons their UnApproachable banner so should yours, up to isolastic weirdness onset.

DogT · Nov 30, 2013

Just about anyone has the kits, OB, Walridge, the standard places. They're not expensive.

Al-otment · Dec 2, 2013

hobot said:
First need to dissect and examine for a parts order. Roll tubes together and in any gaps seen might be able to have straigtened and may be ok even with slight light gap seen. Way more sensitive than one flat plate method. Stanchion insides get rusted up to pay attention for spring friction. You should do the simple bottom hydro stop solution, plug the lower holes on the tapper where they don't ever get covered. Kits sell alloy rods that are beat in then smoothed over some as nothing rubs by close anyway. Weld or epoxy. Then make similar size/area holes 1/2"-3/4" above damper tube bottom lip and that's it. I made one similar size hole 3/4" up then two more staggered smaller holes 5/8 & 1/2" above the tube lip for a more progressive indefinite stop/reversal action. Then diddle oil grade and fill to 175 ml but not much more. Its was Roadholders that gave Nortons their UnApproachable banner so should yours, up to isolastic weirdness onset.

The fork bottom bump stop mod works very well as well as the extended top bush. As usual do not agree with iso comment. Peter Williams had no problems speeding around the Island. Perpetuate myths for long enough and people will believe them.

MikeG · Dec 2, 2013

I bought my fork stuff from Clubman and was happy with everything. As I recall though, not everything I needed was in the kit. The damper rods and caps had to be ordered seperatly and you do have options on them, I went with the standard stuff. Can't remember if the gaiters were in the kit either, and they required a heat gun to install. One of my fork legs was dry as well, and the other pretty munged up but the tubes were OK so I just cleaned up and replaced the worn stuff and went back together with it.

danfr · Dec 4, 2013

Well, I'm going to go with the Clubman Racing fork kit and I'll pick up their extended bushings. Maybe some progressive springs too. Hopefully the fork tubes and damper rods will check out fine.

Thanks for all the great information and replies. I appreciate it!

MikeG · Dec 4, 2013

If I recall correctly, the fit of the rod through the cap is the determining factor there. Too much clearence and the dampers don't work as they should. Rod is steel and the cap is alloy so they do wear, and one of my rods was scored so I changed em both. I can't tell you offhand what the hole in the cap should measure but should be easy to find. Take care removing the caps as well, pretty easy to screw up the damper body.

Hobot · Dec 4, 2013

The factory rods are also smaller dia. than Greg's kit with 10mm alloy rods plus he sells tighter better quality caps so most happy with ATF or slightly thicker, plus can then take a bit off rod in the 1" area of normal sag height so nuisance road texture dissapears in another layer of isolation which helps effective tire contact too.

Fork Rebuild Kit

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