Flood Victim

Note the valve at the lower right, it came out scalloped...

...and that was the GOOD cylinder!
 
Popped the primary cover last night-more water, very little oil. Some surface rust on the bottom run of the triplex chain, but most came off with a shot of PB Blaster and some ragwork. I'm used to the Mk III primary, which has a drain plug. This one doesn't.
 
Is the barrel off yet?
How long has it been since it was submerged, looks like quite awhile. I had a Honda 90 that looked like this, it got removed with a rubber mallet, block of wood and lots of heat.
 
MS850 said:
Is the barrel off yet?
How long has it been since it was submerged, looks like quite awhile. I had a Honda 90 that looked like this, it got removed with a rubber mallet, block of wood and lots of heat.
Click to expand...


Not sure how long, but you would think someone would have drained the water before now. The drink that came out of the sump was clear, not rusted, so there's hope for less than total destruction in the crankcase.

This weekend, I'll pull the primary drive and start trying to free the pistons.
 
Danno said:
MS850 said:
Is the barrel off yet?
How long has it been since it was submerged, looks like quite awhile. I had a Honda 90 that looked like this, it got removed with a rubber mallet, block of wood and lots of heat.
Click to expand...


Not sure how long, but you would think someone would have drained the water before now. The drink that came out of the sump was clear, not rusted, so there's hope for less than total destruction in the crankcase.

This weekend, I'll pull the primary drive and start trying to free the pistons.
Click to expand...

Try heat and candle wax, this trick works on rusty bolts.
 
Haven't found a frozen one yet other than the exhaust crossover fasteners and PB took care of those.
 
Pulled the primary drive this evening. Surprised to find 2 bronze and 3 fiber plates in the clutch stack. Apparently some ham-hand took a whack at sealing a leak between the crankcase and the inner primary with about a full tube of RTV. Got everything off but the drive sprocket, one of the few parts to show complete rusting of the surface.

Also disassembled the Amals earlier and sank everything in a bath of carb cleaner. Only reluctant component were the fuel inlet banjos. Hopefully a good soak will free them up.
 
Danno said:
Pulled the primary drive this evening. Surprised to find 2 bronze and 3 fiber plates in the clutch stack. Apparently some ham-hand took a whack at sealing a leak between the crankcase and the inner primary with about a full tube of RTV. Got everything off but the drive sprocket, one of the few parts to show complete rusting of the surface.

Also disassembled the Amals earlier and sank everything in a bath of carb cleaner. Only reluctant component were the fuel inlet banjos. Hopefully a good soak will free them up.
Click to expand...

I had that same setup when I opened mine up.

bill said:
that was a common stackup years ago. the black barnett plate's was very aggressive. can you measure the and report the thickness of the barnett plates so we can knoewif they are for an 850 or 750? my guess from you stating a heavy pull it was an 850 set. another trick is to use the thicker 750 plates in the mix to adjust the stackup for an easier pull.
Click to expand...
 
The SS clone has Barnett plates. I also have some leftovers I may check for usability and get rid of the 2 bronzes in this machine. If you could keep the clutch completely dry, as with a belt drive, I think the bronze clutch would be fine. As it is, a little primary chain lubrication tends to get in there and cause slippage. Mine used to act as if it was being disengaged at higher rpm.
 
Dyno Dave's mainshaft end cap seal is a good cure to keep transmission lube from creeping into the clutch plates causing slippage.
 
grandpaul said:
Dyno Dave's mainshaft end cap seal is a good cure to keep transmission lube from creeping into the clutch plates causing slippage.
Click to expand...


I think some splash from the primary drive eventually gets in there. I might do that if the trans lube level drops.

Got the gearbox moving and shifting with a little working and a long soak in oil. Got the sprocket nut off, but the sprocket's a little recalcitrant. Did the vicegrip grab to the rear iso shaft to get the timing side nut off. Still very stiff. The threads may be galled. I have another nut to try....

I know everyone likes pics, but for anyone (everyone?) who's done this sort of re-do Who needs to look at that nasty garbage? Once I start sprucing up, I'll take pics as I go.
 
Got the cylinder off today. Rings were frozen in the lands, but not rusted. Looking a little crusty in the upper part of the bore:

Flood Victim


A little scraping and a little sanding and they don't look too bad. Once I hone them a bit, I'll be able to tell if it needs boring:

Flood Victim


Bottom end is much cleaner than I expected. No rust on the crank, flywheel or camshaft that I can see:

Flood Victim


No sign of any base gasket.
 
grandpaul said:
Bottom end looks decent; you may have dodged a bullet.
Click to expand...

yeah looks good, rings sometimes seem to be good and stopping water. I have taking apart several Honda 90 engines with rusted top ends and prefect bottom ends.
 
I think the bottom is ok. Still gonna take the driveside case off to make sure there's no crap in the bottom. I'm hoping the cylinders clean up nice with no pits and then we're just talking piston rings instead of a re-bore and oversized pistons.
 
Last night, the drive sprocket popped right off with a little puller persuasion. 21 tooth. Is that the factory piece? Today, I drilled the tach drive and installed a seal. This afternoon, I removed the stands and spun the gearbox bolts loose. All three stand bolt holes will need to be drilled out and bushed. I think I should pull the dual oil line fitting before I start spinning the gearbox out. Correct wrench is in the SS clone's tool roll. Manana.
 
Crankcase and gearbox out, wheels and fork separated. Bottom yoke off, but top is being stubborn. Gonna do some more cleanup before I remove the swingarm from the cradle. Goofy bottom rear engine mount bolt that will require replacing.
 
Re: Flood V

Now the stub axle refuses to budge in rear sprocket/drum. Looks like there's a grease cap on the back side which rotates with a little tapping but doesn't move axially. Smacking the axle with a board and hammer has been futile. Guess I'll let it soak in PB for a while.

Got a Dominator/Atlas manual and a 750 Commando manual and neither ones says much about the sprocket/drum. The '74 has the rectangular drive pegs, but there doesn't look to be much difference between those and the stud-and-shebolt drive earlier examples.
 
You need to remove the felt seal, then the circlip, THEN the stub axle & double-row bearing.

Check the parts diagram in case I'm wrong (I'm working from a fading memory here)
 
grandpaul said:
You need to remove the felt seal, then the circlip, THEN the stub axle & double-row bearing.

Check the parts diagram in case I'm wrong (I'm working from a fading memory here)
Click to expand...

That describes the hub, but no felt seal or circlip present behind the sprocket upon disassembly, only what looks like a pressed-in metal grease cap. This rotates but does not pop out from rapping on the thread end.
 
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