First start of new bike (new engine) Help

I have been told that I should first before starting the engine, to use kickstart to circulate oil around engine and back to oil tank. I have a oil filter in the circuit of pipes, I filled the oil tank up with oil about 2 months ago an it is making its way ok to the sump. But I cannot get it to return to the oil tank by the kickstart. Do I have to prime anything with oil, or do I just start the bike and keep an eye on the oil in tank. Also any advice on how to start the engine as first time to norton show. Many thanks. John. Norfolk. Uk

You'd need Superman's leg to get oil flowing back to the tank using the kick start. Do this instead.
Remove the intake rocker cover and pour several ounces of oil inside to get the oil pump primed.
Then start the bike and watch for oil returning to the oil tank. Assuming you used assembly lube on the important bits like the tappets, rods, etc, you should be OK.
If you have a healthy friend you could get him to push you around on the bike in gear with the plugs removed.

Also, loosen the left rocker feed banjo. It will only take a few kicks to show evidence of oil prime. Do this kicking stuff with the plugs out of course.

John leathers said:

I have been told that I should first before starting the engine, to use kickstart to circulate oil around engine and back to oil tank. I have a oil filter in the circuit of pipes, I filled the oil tank up with oil about 2 months ago an it is making its way ok to the sump. But I cannot get it to return to the oil tank by the kickstart. Do I have to prime anything with oil, or do I just start the bike and keep an eye on the oil in tank. Also any advice on how to start the engine as first time to norton show. Many thanks. John. Norfolk. Uk

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You are not doing the engine any favors by rotating it with the kickstarter. Slow rotation of the engine parts means there will not be enough surface speed to create hydrodynamic lubrication -which is what keeps the engine parts from scuffing.

If the oil tank has been filled that long then the crank and oil pump are already primed.

Start the motor and bring it to 2500 rpm for a few minutes. 20 minutes would be best but you will need a cooling fan to avoid overheating. Jim

comnoz said:

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You are not doing the engine any favors by rotating it with the kickstarter. Slow rotation of the engine parts means there will not be enough surface speed to create hydrodynamic lubrication -which is what keeps the engine parts from scuffing.

If the oil tank has been filled that long then the crank and oil pump are already primed.

Start the motor and bring it to 2500 rpm for a few minutes. 20 minutes would be best but you will need a cooling fan to avoid overheating. Jim

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Also keep in mind you have a filter in the return line that needs to be filled before you see any oil spits coming back to the tank...That equals a lot of kicking.
And may I add to what Jim said. After you get the engine running, don't at this point, start fine tuning the carb idle mix for that nice smooth slow running we all like to brag about.

As stated by others, more damage is to be realized by kicking through on a new engine, especially with a new cam and/or followers. You want to get it up and running right away to get it into the hydrodynamic lubrication. One thing I have done in the past after a rebuild as a check is after priming the pump, turn the engine over a bit in correct rotation to assure oil on feed side of pump goes down the feed side tube. I seem to recall reading about one or more after market repair manuals showing the oil lines reversed.

In your case, if there is any doubt about the oil lines, pull what you believe is the feed to the engine and turn the engine over a little bit. You should immediately see the oil disappear down the line. No doubt the feed line is hooked up correct and no doubt the feed side of pump is primed.

With a total rebuild with an inline filter, it can take several seconds for the engine to show return to the oil tank with the engine at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm.

When you did the initial fill of the oil tank, did you give an allowance for filling the in line oil filter. The fact that the bike has sat for two months, there is probably some wet sumping so don't assume you need to add oil until the engine returns all the oil BUT before the tank empties.

Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

And take the tappet covers off and pour about an egg cup of oil over the valves and down the pushrod tunnels to the cam follower and cam.

I assume the cam lobes had assembly lube applied during the rebuild.


And after the first run let it cool down overnight and retorque the cylinder head.

Tighten exhaust pipe roses again when engine is still hot after first run. Then each time you run engine after that untill they remain tight and will not move anymore.

One nice thing about starting a partially wet sumped engine. The cam and lifters get thoroughly lubed as soon as the crank begins to turn. Jim

So when a Norton wet-sumps, is it safe to assume the crankshaft flywheel cavity is full of oil ?
I recall using a big plastic syringe to fill my Atlas crankshaft after rebuilding it.

mschmitz57 said:

So when a Norton wet-sumps, is it safe to assume the crankshaft flywheel cavity is full of oil ?
I recall using a big plastic syringe to fill my Atlas crankshaft after rebuilding it.

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Since the crankshaft is pretty well immersed I would think the sludge trap is also going to be pretty well filled.

When I have the time I normally just fill the oil tank at least 24 hours before the first start on a fresh build. Then I don't worry about any further priming.
I have watched as the oil pressure gauge shows pressure immediately on the first kick [if it starts]. Jim

Tried to start bike today, emptied some of the oil out of the sump. Filled with petrol,(no leaks),ignition on,petrol on,choke on, tickled float on carb. Big kick nothing, second nothing, tired it fired once then nothing next 2. Re tickled float and same again. Fired once each time. Any help on what I am doing wrong. John

John leathers said:

tickled float on carb.

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Single carb?

John leathers said:

...choke on, tickled float on carb. Big kick nothing, second nothing, tired it fired once then nothing...

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Unsure as to your local weather/temp, but, if I tickle the carbs on mine, adding choke will only cause it to die/not start from an over-rich condition. Try it again with the choke off, and the throttle just cracked off of idle.

Nathan

Don't be shy, give it some gas.

Ignition is a Boyer, set up as per instruction. Yes. Lab. It is single carb.

John leathers said:

Ignition is a Boyer, set up as per instruction.

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But not, as yet, strobed, so the timing may still not be set accurately, however, there could be 101 other reasons why it won't start?

John leathers said:

It is single carb.

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Try it with the choke off?

Try swapping the plug leads around - you may have done the preliminary timing one rotation out.

It's an easy check, and a good place to start.

gtiller said:

Try swapping the plug leads around - you may have done the preliminary timing one rotation out.

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The Boyer is a wasted spark ignition so that doesn't apply.

Should have another go at starting this weekend, got a mate round with a strobe and a bit more experience than me. Will see what happen and get back to you Many thanks. John