Fettling a Norton Commando 750

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Fitted the lid to the roadster tank today. Steady hands, small hammer and a drift did the trick.

And the wisdom to use protective tape.

Changed the fork oil today. The old oil was nasty. According to my dad it was at least 20 years old

solbero said:

Fitted the lid to the roadster tank today. Steady hands, small hammer and a drift did the trick.

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Why is hinge at front of the filler neck? All standard tanks I have seen have the hinge at the rear. Custom tank?

- Knut

mdt-son said:

Why is hinge at front of the filler neck? All standard tanks I have seen have the hinge at the rear.

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Fibreglass tanks have the hinge at the front.

L.A.B. said:

Fibreglass tanks have the hinge at the front.

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Under current legislation, these tanks are not allowed on road going bikes without proof of resistance to ethanol. This applies to the EU as well.

- Knut

mdt-son said:

Under current legislation, these tanks are not allowed on road going bikes without proof of resistance to ethanol. This applies to the EU as well.

- Knut

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In Norway you are still able to buy 98 octane petrol without any ethanol. There was some public discussion last year about introducing ethanol into 98, but it was abandoned after a large public outcry from vintage vehicle and boat owners. Some petrol station chains have even pledged that they will continue to sell ethanol-free 98 even if it becomes allowed to add ethanol nationally.

I also did some quick searches and I could not find any information suggesting that fiberglass tanks are regulated in Norway.

Also, I have two fiberglass tanks: one roadster and one Dunstall. They are in great condition and I see no need to change them if I don't have to.

Edit: I noticed after I wrote the reply that you're from Norway as well, mdt-son. I found in Chapter 22, §22-1 second paragraph of Kjøretøyforskriften that the fuel system has to be suitable for the fuel you intend to use in it.

As long as there is no ethanol in the fuel I use, and considering that vintage bikes have been using fiberglass tanks for quite a while without problem with the correct fuel, I would consider the fuel system as suitable for the fuel I intend to use in it.

But I would consider changing the tanks if they pose a major risk or there is some regulation I am not aware of. But I see no need to do so unless I have to.

Please check ChatGPT for guidance on likelihood of approval of a polyester-based composite tank on a vintage motorcycle, fuel selection notwithstanding. You will find it unlikely our "DMV" will approve it, for several reasons. The question is about what the tank endures, not the petrol type you chose to use.

- Knut

Finished hooking up the new wiring loom today. Every switch and connection worked on first try, except I had switched two wires when hooking up the main headlight bulb. I got a lot of great tips on how to build a loom from How to build your own wiring loom.

solbero said:

Finished hooking up the new wiring loom today. Every switch and connection worked on first try, except I had switched two wires when hooking up the main headlight bulb. I got a lot of great tips on how to build a loom from How to build your own wiring loom.

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Nice job @solbero and a very good choice to use “Japanese” style 3.8mm bullet connectors. They are far superior to the Lucas bullets, which were ok back in the day, but designed for cars really, and being rubber covered impossible to spot corrosion and are an absolute bear to separate.

If you intend to future proof your fiberglass tank, I can thoroughly recommend Flowliner tank sealer. However, you may need to get somebody in the U.K. To post it to you, as they can’t post abroad apparently.

cliffa said:

If you intend to future proof your fiberglass tank, I can thoroughly recommend Flowliner tank sealer. However, you may need to get somebody in the U.K. To post it to you, as they can’t post abroad apparently.

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Thanks for the tip. I have looked at Caswell Tank Sealer (recommended in Norman White's book). They seem to be shipping abroad.

I have been busy with rear wheel maintenance the last two weeks. I have dismantled, cleaned and greased the rear brake drum. I have also arched and fitted RGM high-friction breake shoes. I arched them using the sandpaper-glued-to-the-drum-method.


I had a lot of trouble removing the rear lock ring, mostly because I don't have the appropriate peg spanner tool. After some false starts, I finally managed to get it removed using a Bacho 19-50mm hook wrench. Applying some heat and tapping lightly on the wrench with a mallet loosened the lockring.

solbero said:

I have been busy with rear wheel maintenance the last two weeks. I have dismantled, cleaned and greased the rear brake drum. I have also arched and fitted RGM high-friction breake shoes. I arched them using the sandpaper-glued-to-the-drum-method.
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I had a lot of trouble removing the rear lock ring, mostly because I don't have the appropriate peg spanner tool. After some false starts, I finally managed to get it removed using a Bacho 19-50mm hook wrench. Applying some heat and tapping lightly on the wrench with a mallet loosened the lockring.
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When you put the lockring (speedo drive lockring) back on, just get it good and snug. Should not have been very hard to get off and turning inside the speed drive means it won't unscrew.

Removed the 15 year old Avon Roadriders and fitted new Hidenau K65s. 90/90 19" front and 100/90 19" rear.

Changed the front brake shoes for new RGM high friction pads. Someone has been very liberal with a grease gun at some point. There was grease everywhere. Arched the new pads using sandpaper glued to the drum.

solbero said:

Removed the 15 year old Avon Roadriders and fitted new Hidenau K65s. 90/90 19" front and 100/90 19" rear.
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Tread pattern is reminiscent of the old Super Venoms.

Let us know what they rode like.