extreme vibration on right hand grip
- Thread starter Mike1
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Its not unique to your ride though maybe more extreme than what I discovered on factory Trixie Combat, head lights in LH mirror are in stable point focus while RH mirror slows them skewed horizontally and some vertically for a diagonal skew vibration witness. If I grabs RH bar hard the vertical component disappears to leave horizontal trace. Have not checked anything yet to what this is coming form. I know Trixies frame under tube is tweaked to LH and a tight fit in front frame with iso's gap adjusted to factory ~.010" i got the strain out of head steady rubber cushions so think they are in neutral support, but still suspect. I'm all ears to how your tale turns out.
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Weights? Do tell?
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Weights added are a band aid last resort besides adding weight. Here's guide I'll try to follow for Trixie who don't make me numb with blunted vibration but is more annoying than she once was prior to a few bad crashes and my rebuilds and mystery of RH mirror skewing light mostly sideways than veritcal, weird.
Here's some more on isolastic dynamics to ponder or practice.
http://home.clara.net/captain.norton/cnn2sec33.html
From: John Pinkham
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 17:35:40 EDT
Diagnosis:
Vibration: up to 3000 RPM
o Rear engine mount tight- remove 0.005 shim
o Front engine mount O.K.
From 3000-5000 RPM
o Front mount tight- remove 0.005" shim
From 0-5000 RPM
o Both Mounts tight.
Don't support the bike on the center stand when servicing the isolastics.
From: Chuck Kichline
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 94 10:52:31 CDT
> Diagnosis:
I believe the best (and classic) method is the "night ride" where the analysis and adjustment requirements of the system is diagnosed thusly:
1) All tests should be made at 1000rpm intervals. Each interval should be tested for ~ 30 seconds.
2) All tests should be made in appropriate gear for use at that rpm.
3) Rider will position himself in front of an automobile who has turned on their headlights and is driving at an appropriate speed.
4) The rider will examine the pattern made in the rearview mirror(s) by the headlights for diagnostic wave patterns.
5) Diagnosis:
Figure 8 below 3000rpm
o Rear engine mount tight- remove 0.005 shim
Figure 8 above 3000rpm
o Loose front engine mount.
Horizontal line 3000-5000rpm
o Front mount tight- remove 0.005" shim
Vertical lines 2000-4000rpm
o Loose rear engine mount.
Squiggles at all rpms
o All mounts loose.
Handlebars squiggle at all rpms
o All mounts tight.
Two rock-solid spots above 5000rpm
o Blew your engine or flying off road d/t eyes off path too long.
Here's some more on isolastic dynamics to ponder or practice.
http://home.clara.net/captain.norton/cnn2sec33.html
From: John Pinkham
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 17:35:40 EDT
Diagnosis:
Vibration: up to 3000 RPM
o Rear engine mount tight- remove 0.005 shim
o Front engine mount O.K.
From 3000-5000 RPM
o Front mount tight- remove 0.005" shim
From 0-5000 RPM
o Both Mounts tight.
Don't support the bike on the center stand when servicing the isolastics.
From: Chuck Kichline
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 94 10:52:31 CDT
> Diagnosis:
I believe the best (and classic) method is the "night ride" where the analysis and adjustment requirements of the system is diagnosed thusly:
1) All tests should be made at 1000rpm intervals. Each interval should be tested for ~ 30 seconds.
2) All tests should be made in appropriate gear for use at that rpm.
3) Rider will position himself in front of an automobile who has turned on their headlights and is driving at an appropriate speed.
4) The rider will examine the pattern made in the rearview mirror(s) by the headlights for diagnostic wave patterns.
5) Diagnosis:
Figure 8 below 3000rpm
o Rear engine mount tight- remove 0.005 shim
Figure 8 above 3000rpm
o Loose front engine mount.
Horizontal line 3000-5000rpm
o Front mount tight- remove 0.005" shim
Vertical lines 2000-4000rpm
o Loose rear engine mount.
Squiggles at all rpms
o All mounts loose.
Handlebars squiggle at all rpms
o All mounts tight.
Two rock-solid spots above 5000rpm
o Blew your engine or flying off road d/t eyes off path too long.
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Worth checking the rear Engine / Cradle bolts (shafts)/nuts . not good loose . also chaincase support stud/bolt in center .
One thing leads to another .
Powererplant will skew.
thatll throw the whole cabboodle out .
One thing leads to another .
Powererplant will skew.
thatll throw the whole cabboodle out .
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platinumsmith said:
Early Racing KKT velocettes had bad vibes from their New Alloy Bars....so they filled them with lead :!:
john robert bould said:
I've got around 1/2lb of lead in the ends of my bars. The mirrors don't blur and there isn't any vibration to speak of. Many modern bikes have bar-end weights, but they are rubber mounted so they probably do a better job of damping vibration with less weight.
Sometimes a loose front brake lever can really start to rattle at certain rpm's.
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rpatton said:
Did you pour it it molten? I know my bar end mirror vibrates ,and at 1500 rev's i can see bugger all in it, :!:
john robert bould said:
I pressed a penny in one end of the bar then poured in the lead shot followed by about a 1/2 cup of epoxy resin and let it set. For the other side I dumped in the shot and resin then sealed it up with another penny and tilted so it all flowed into the other end of the bar. I've had the bar off a few times and nothing rattles, so I guess it's staying put. I didn't pour it it molten because I thought it might shrink when it cooled an then rattle around inside the bar.
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John,
Try retarding the ignition a couple of degrees. Anyhow, what are you doing tootling around at 1500rpm ?
Nearly forgot, The high speed buzz can be caused by a stiff links in the rear chain. But on one side, perhaps not, either way it cost nothing to spin the rear wheel and listen for louder than normal sprocket noises
Cash
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cash said:
Cash,
I dont tottle about at 1500, its when i carnt pass heavy traffic , nornaly 4000-5500 just above the vibe level, but i have only had the bike three weeks and it's in need of some tuning,
Carbs need balancing, timing strobed...plus the iso's are original 35 year old, mayby a winter rebuild on them.
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Another way to dampen bars is stuff paper in then a mix of RTV and lead shot, similar to whats done on archery bows. The total lack of vibes on linked Peel above 2000-ish is still a mystery to me why she feels and handles so different to others i've tried. I only ever rode Peel with rather tall hollow T140 bars, 8" rise IIRC, which I'd think would aggravate any vibes getting through. Racers warned me not to remove rubber from front isolastic as upsets the handling but boy howdy I sure liked it so did similar to Trixie w/o links. Reviewing data points implies Trixie's RH > mostly horizontal mirror test, is d/t front gap a bit tight yet or the slight nick in RH exht. cam lobe is flapping slack on cam chain or front tire is too hard worn or a carb out of tune or throttle cable route binding .... or my TS crank cheek not dyno balanced... and can never get rid of RH vibes till total tear down again.
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Mike1, I had exactly the same problem.
Cruising speed vibration on right side. My fingers would tingle within half an hour of constant cruising.
At first I put it down to two collapsed discs and two more on their way, in the lower back.
Then one day I took both hands off the bars, only to find the bike veer to the left.
Not unusuall in Oz as we drive on the left, and obviously, the roads are cantered to the left side.
Experimented a bit by riding on the wrong side of the white line, only to find it still heading to the left.
Checked wheel alignment, to find front of rear wheel slightly to the right, which was coarsing me to pull on the right of the bars.
After re adjusting the back wheel, things improved considerably.
It worked for me.
Also, do you do a lot of riding. If not, you might be gripping a bit hard, try relaxing your grip abit.
Of course if you have a genuine mechanical vibration, disregard this story.
Cruising speed vibration on right side. My fingers would tingle within half an hour of constant cruising.
At first I put it down to two collapsed discs and two more on their way, in the lower back.
Then one day I took both hands off the bars, only to find the bike veer to the left.
Not unusuall in Oz as we drive on the left, and obviously, the roads are cantered to the left side.
Experimented a bit by riding on the wrong side of the white line, only to find it still heading to the left.
Checked wheel alignment, to find front of rear wheel slightly to the right, which was coarsing me to pull on the right of the bars.
After re adjusting the back wheel, things improved considerably.
It worked for me.
Also, do you do a lot of riding. If not, you might be gripping a bit hard, try relaxing your grip abit.
Of course if you have a genuine mechanical vibration, disregard this story.
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hobot said:
Intersting, But isn't vibes normal for Comandos?..you dont mention the top fixing or carb balance either?
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