Exhaust thread repair sleeve needed, where to source?

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concours

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My cylinder head had been repaired with aluminum sleeves welded in, before I got it. One has soiled the sheets. I've removed it with a die grinder, and before I call in a favor to have them made, does anyone know where I could buy a set? The O.D. is 2.250" nominal.

Exhaust thread repair sleeve needed, where to source?

Exhaust thread repair sleeve needed, where to source?




Exhaust thread repair sleeve needed, where to source?


Exhaust thread repair sleeve needed, where to source?
 
I do only aluminum bronze inserts. They are threaded in on the OD. I don't know who would have aluminum inserts available.

I have a bucket full of aluminum inserts I have cut out. Jim
 
If you want to stay with the aluminum, Sunset Motors in Kenosha, WI (TC Christiansen shop) should be able to help you.

If you can, go with threaded aluminum bronze.
 
I'll do the bronze, I agree a better solution... but for the here and now, I need to be up in a week. Winter teardown will be the final solution repair I also am not sure if there is enough material left for threading the head.
 
Yes the head /port wall looks thin,i would skim out the hole and press in the insert,heat the head and freeze the inset, then drill and tap for a 5mm allen /grub screw 1/2 and 1/2 in the face...should get you up and running untill another comes along
 
john robert bould said:
Yes the head /port wall looks thin,

Thin wall...yes if you put a 2.25 insert. Not liking the 2 1/4 repair size, I made my own inserts, then later had a batch of 2.187 (3/16) inserts made and have done many heads that way for mostly NENO members.

To date, I have not had a strip or pull-out failure reported to me of one of my port repairs. However I'm not planning on doing any more until I fix my TIG welder.
 
concours said:
I'll do the bronze, I agree a better solution... but for the here and now, I need to be up in a week. Winter teardown will be the final solution repair I also am not sure if there is enough material left for threading the head.

If the hole is 2.250 it will accept my largest bronze insert. Any larger than that and it will need a weld build-up. Jim
 
Jim,
Just out of curiosity, how many exhaust thread repairs do you rekon you have done over the years?
 
Mark said:
Jim,
Just out of curiosity, how many exhaust thread repairs do you rekon you have done over the years?

I would hate to take a guess. I started out slow doing welded aluminum inserts 25 years ago, then quickly went to steel inserts retained with a hidden snap ring. I did them for a few years then I went to a threaded aluminum bronze insert manually cut and threaded with custom taps. [that was hard labor]
Now they are all done with a CNC Bridgeport. I did 78 pair in 2011. I am over that number now for 2012. Jim
 
I bought my Commando about two years ago and almost immediately found out that one of the exhaust nuts was frozen in the head and both exhaust ports had been repaired by the previous owner. I sent the head to Jim Comstock (Comnoz) and he recommended replacing both sides. I cheaped out and only had the stripped side repaired. Jim did a great job and it really looked good. I ended up having to send it to him again to get the other side fixed.

My advice is; send it to Jim and have him do both sides even if you the other will be OK...you'll be sorry if you don't.

Now I don't cringe when I tighten up the pipes!

Dave
 
Use Never Seeze. You don't need to over do it but make sure both inner and outter thread surfaces and any bearing surfaces are coated and then wipe off excess or it will end up on your bike and pants legs for the next few runs.
 
drp said:
I bought my Commando about two years ago and almost immediately found out that one of the exhaust nuts was frozen in the head and both exhaust ports had been repaired by the previous owner. I sent the head to Jim Comstock (Comnoz) and he recommended replacing both sides. I cheaped out and only had the stripped side repaired. Jim did a great job and it really looked good. I ended up having to send it to him again to get the other side fixed.

My advice is; send it to Jim and have him do both sides even if you the other will be OK...you'll be sorry if you don't.

Now I don't cringe when I tighten up the pipes!

Dave

I just packed mine up for a trip to Colorado. Both sides.
 
Anti-sieze or copper silicone to the precious threads and never need to spend money on this issue ever. Run up hot then re-tighten.
 
Did you even see the OP's Pictures?
I don't think anti-seize is gonna fix his issues.
 
Sorry, don't know New Hampshire options, Prevention was on my mind hundreds of torque-downs later.
 
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