Exhaust Rose replacements

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maylar said:
A long time ago there was a note in the Norton tech digest suggesting that the Suzuki 14181-01D00 washers were the best out there.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-NOS...-38x46x5-11-/402242815568?hash=item5da78a4650
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I don't use them...but I did try them.

The lip on my custom made header pipes is too thick to be compatible, meaning that with these thick sealing washers there is very little thread engaged.

They are probably fine with other header pipes.

So I use standard AN washers. Cheap. And they work!
 
saftey wire? not me...some see this as ugly but the spring method from the 80's allows you to put the rose on.... even loose and it self tightens aided by vibration. I still use it today and was not originally my idea...a new england thing I guess. works real good! Some have made fancier clips but the principle is the same.
Exhaust Rose replacements
 
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dynodave said:
saftey wire? not me...some see this as ugly but the spring method from the 80's allows you to put the rose on.... even loose and it self tightens aided by vibration. I still use it today and was not originally my idea...a new england thing I guess. works real good! Some have made fancier clips but the principle is the same.
Exhaust Rose replacements
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Exhaust Rose replacementsmine is even uglier. Suggested by the local Norton dealer when I was getting the threads repaired back in 78. Never had a problem since. Could use a new spring. Maybe stainless?
 
And what may I ask is this non crushable gasket ? Thanks.

Sorry, missed your question.

A solid aluminium gasket would be best. Copper compresses but could be ok.
Fitting the headers with the solid "gasket" plus Maniseal means fit it once an leave it alone.

I had a bad experience with my 2005 Hilux. the injectors were fitted with copper gaskets from new, but they shrank and caused compression blowby into the crank case which caused a carbon buildup that was not obvious, and resulting in a blocked oil squirter for no. one piston. This piston collapsed resulting in a complete engine job. Toyota knew about it but did not inform their customers. The engine had done approx 110,000 kms. Just useless info for you.
 
Adding to the 3 types, Dave mentioned.
The longer single cylinder variety used on singles.
 
kerinorton said:
Should use a non crush-able gasket with a bit of Maniseal [ made and developed in NZ by Cyril Austin { Penitril Laboratories employed a drunkard chemist to work on this stuff } way back, and bought out by CRC ] on both sides. Do the nut up and forget about it.
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Maniseal looks like it's the perfect solution, but is not available stateside. Is there an alternative stateside?
 
ntst8 said:
"And what may I ask is this non crushable gasket ?"

The tight fisted among us don't throw away the crush gaskets when pulling things apart, but re-use the already crushed gasket on reassembly.
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I constantly re use mine, even when changing exhausts from stock to 2:1 and back again etc. They seem to seal just fine!
 
Yes. Like you guys, I do reuse my originals when that are fully compressed. Its not being tight fisted, its perfectly practical. [ I wasn't going to admit that in case someone made a ridiculous comment. Thankyou for being brave enough to admit it ].
I also laugh at all the un-original ways of keeping those nuts tight. I still use the original lock tabs, and they dont rattle or come loose. It must be something to do with KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

BTW, Maniseal is manufactured by CRC now. It is just a very good exhaust sealant. It is a fairly liquidy type but thicker than tooth paste. They probably make Manigum as well, which is a very thick version of the Maniseal. Manigum is a bit like Gun Gum except it does not expand like gun gum, so wont block your exhaust. Sorry, not familiar with products available overseas.

When I did fit my front pipes, I spread the Maniseal towards the outer surface of the flanges [ so it does not spread to far inwards ] and allow extra around the circumference so when the exhaust nut is done up, it touches the Maniseal as well, giving a greater area of sealing.
 
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Both lock rings and safety wire can be false solutions. The whole dang exhaust is levering and bouncing against the rose, washer, and seat. The engine/trans/rear wheel powerunit is twisting and vibrating and working through the isolastics against the rest of the chassis. Meanwhile the entire exhaust system is torqued too; supported by those rubber isolator bolts and an exhaust rose with less than 3/4" of purchase.

Tightness of the rose can be, no, will be, lost. The rose then vibrates in the softer head, captured by that ring or wire, BUT without the rider noticing that damage is being done, by that unnoticed but captured looseness, to the exhaust port's soft aluminum female threads and to the washer and maybe even its seat.

That's why a spring is best but the design of the head makes attachment of any spring problematic. I tried to dream up some kind of good looking and effective spring bracket but gave up. Dynodave's solution is a good one.

Some time ago, when I got fooled by safety wire and was looking at a beat up loose exhaust port thread but wanting to ride instead of wrench, I grabbed a tube of a product similar to Maniseal - a simple water/silica based automotive exhaust system sealant - out of my box of car exhaust stuff - and it worked, wonderfully. At the time, I figured it would be hard to disassemble when the time came. That was years ago. Still holding.

However, at that time, I also added a head pipe support bracket to each head pipe, similar to those on Triumphs. Each bracket is L shaped and the short leg of each L bolts to the front isolastic mount; that way the head pipe still can shake with the engine. Each rose though, is captured onto the head pipe permanently by the tab that I welded to the head pipe which the outer long end of the L bracket bolts to.
 
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I had my exhaust threads redone and bought new chrome plated exhaust nuts. They were extremely tight and I couldn't get them to fully seat so I took an old head and used lapping compound to remove the plating on the threads until I could get the nuts to seat properly. I use a liberal coating of never seize and fully tighten after riding until they are tight. I've never had a problem since replacement.
 
...and no it's NOT mine. I happened across it earlier today on here. I was looking for the post where someone threads in allen head screws into the fat fins of the rose clamp to lock the tab washer against the head. I was wondering what would happen when they seize in?
 
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