Exhaust Chirping and Misfire

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I f mine ain't rattling and making noise it's not running, so I ignore most of it as long as it's familiar and steady. The oil up front drives me nuts and I've done everything but pull the head, which isn't happening until there's a better reason to warrant the task. So's I just keep cleaning it off and live with it, though I'm not at all pleased. Good ole pushrod tunnels score another one.
 
Check rocker spindle covers, gaskets and bolt tightness on covers. Oil leak here is almost invisible but can really gush out and find inner channel that leads to front fins.
 
oldbeezer said:
could the exhaust chirping possibly be an exhaust leak? just a suggestion.
NICE tank btw.
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Don't know...there seems to be very little information on what causes chirping on these and other forums. Note I did not have this at all when I was running the single Amal 932 carb. When I converted over to dual 932 (the pair that came with the bike, dubious history etc but all jets/needles/seals replaced) and also swapped in separated headers as my original set had developed a big crack at the balance pipe weld on left side, this is about when I first heard chirping pretty much constantly out right side at idle.
As I just reported, it seems to have been cured now...not quite sure what did it...new plugs, re-tweaked idle jet/settings; re-torquing on header rose nuts?
 
batrider said:
Check rocker spindle covers, gaskets and bolt tightness on covers. Oil leak here is almost invisible but can really gush out and find inner channel that leads to front fins.
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Thanks. I'm running re-useable silicone gaskets for the covers. These appear to seal very well. Might try to confirm with the talcum power trick....
 
Rode it some 150 miles today. No chirping anymore. Occasional misfiring, esp noticed if I slowly advance throttle to around 5k rpm in 3rd or 4th. I'm sure I have not got the carbs balanced where they should be...I'm just dialing them in by watch/listening to rpms. Need to pull plugs to check how they look.

Tank cap is leaking presumably at seal (which is new). Seems a not uncommon issue on other threads. Any tips on fitting an added layer of gasket material as one chap reported this solved it for him but didn't detail where he added it (on filler neck lip; above the proper seal against the cap metal or sticking to the proper sealing surface so the added material is in contact with the filler lip???). I guess the point is to thicken up the sealing surface to create more spring pressure on the lip when snapped fully closed. Plenty of additional movement possible on the spring loaded plate.
 
Where did you pick up those sillycone gaskets? I'm tired of making mine & feel like getting spoiled for a change.

I read the one on that additional gasket, but mine doesn't leak enough for me to really become interested in doing something about it. Prevents rust in hard to get to spots.
 
jbruney said:
Where did you pick up those sillycone gaskets? I'm tired of making mine & feel like getting spoiled for a change.

I read the one on that additional gasket, but mine doesn't leak enough for me to really become interested in doing something about it. Prevents rust in hard to get to spots.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/NORTON-Twi...076621?hash=item3fbebe370d:g:4VYAAOSwVFlT9l-m

I believe better quality sets also available from JSMotorsports.com.

My cap leakage is fairly heavy. If I fill er up I'll soon see steady stream down right side of tank, forming fuel drops along lower edge of tank. Even if I leave a good inch below top I'll still get leakage after road bumps and leaning turns.
 
Tornado said:
Thanks. I'm running re-useable silicone gaskets for the covers. These appear to seal very well. Might try to confirm with the talcum power trick....
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Wasn't talking about the valve covers - It's the rocker spindle covers on the sides of the head. These are subjected to full oil pressure.
 
I found that the misfire on the TR6 car was caused by incorrect timing. Perhaps advance or retard the timing just a tweak to see if it improves?? It actually sounds pretty much the same as my 750. But then I'm 50% deaf as a post.
 
[QUOTE="Tank cap is leaking presumably at seal (which is new). Seems a not uncommon issue on other threads. Any tips on fitting an added layer of gasket material as one chap reported this solved it for him but didn't detail where he added it (on filler neck lip; above the proper seal against the cap metal or sticking to the proper sealing surface so the added material is in contact with the filler lip???). I guess the point is to thicken up the sealing surface to create more spring pressure on the lip when snapped fully closed. Plenty of additional movement possible on the spring loaded plate.[/QUOTE]

There are two rubber seals in the fuel cap. One is for the sealing disc and the other is a rubber tube that hides behind the sealing disc. If you have the original fuel cap it is riveted together therefore you need to drill the riveted portion to dismantle the fuel cap. Then you need to drill and tap the standoff for reassembly. If the cap has never been dismantled I am sure that the sealing tube is completely rotted away. Here is a picture from Andover-Norton that shows this rubber sealing tube.

I hope this is helps,
Peter Joe


Exhaust Chirping and Misfire
 
Thanks. Had not realized there was another rubber component to check on. My HighRider tank seals well with its presumably original cap that I fitted a fresh main seal to. The re-pro Roadster tank I've just had painted is using a cap I acquired for another forum member and again I fitted the main seal fresh. So if that second "bushing" type seal is bad, petrol will pass up over the top of the plate and reach outside of tank. Both caps are rivetted so will need to do the drill out and tap routine.

Is there a source for just the bushing? I'd like not to have to order the whole kit with plate etc.

PeterJoe said:
[QUOTE="Tank cap is leaking presumably at seal (which is new). Seems a not uncommon issue on other threads. Any tips on fitting an added layer of gasket material as one chap reported this solved it for him but didn't detail where he added it (on filler neck lip; above the proper seal against the cap metal or sticking to the proper sealing surface so the added material is in contact with the filler lip???). I guess the point is to thicken up the sealing surface to create more spring pressure on the lip when snapped fully closed. Plenty of additional movement possible on the spring loaded plate.
Click to expand...

There are two rubber seals in the fuel cap. One is for the sealing disc and the other is a rubber tube that hides behind the sealing disc. If you have the original fuel cap it is riveted together therefore you need to drill the riveted portion to dismantle the fuel cap. Then you need to drill and tap the standoff for reassembly. If the cap has never been dismantled I am sure that the sealing tube is completely rotted away. Here is a picture from Andover-Norton that shows this rubber sealing tube.

I hope this is helps,
Peter Joe


Exhaust Chirping and Misfire
[/QUOTE]
 
The Triumph TR6 are beautiful sport cars from days gone by .... did I ever dream of having one as a poor young man ... hope you enjoy yours as much as I would have !!!!
 
Craig said:
The Triumph TR6 are beautiful sport cars from days gone by .... did I ever dream of having one as a poor young man ... hope you enjoy yours as much as I would have !!!!
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My 73 TR6 is for sale, if interested.
 
While it would be great to have one , my time, space, and cash are very limited , hope a real enthusiast comes along and takes it off your hands , good luck !
 
The front rocker covers often leak onto the head fins. This will slow it down. First make sure the gasket side of the cover is flat by using a sheet of sandpaper on a piece of glass. Then use some 3Bond to glue a gasket to the cover. Once it sets use an exacto knife to trim the gasket flush with the inside of cover on the bottom part of the cover. This removes the small dam that can trap oil. Use some grease on the gasket side towards the engine. This will make it easier to remove to adjust the valves. I've also had the covers over the rocker spindles leak. If you tighten them too tite you will crush the gasket. Don't go by the torque spec in the manual, just nicely snug. Also, use 3 bond on both sides of each gasket.
 
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