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Ethanol gas treatment
- Thread starter tomspro
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tomspro said:
Yes I use ethanol treatment in any E-10 fuel that sits or will sit over 30 days. Chainsaw fuel, snowblower that sits over the summer or lawnmower that sits over the winter. You must install it while the gas is fresh or it's efficacy is nil.
However best is to drain and use it up before it gets old.
It does not prevent ethanol damage to polyester resin, plastics or rubber,
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All about ethanol gasoline stabilizers 4 factors to cover.
http://petelandrysrealgas.com/2013/02/w ... of-choice/
http://petelandrysrealgas.com/2013/02/w ... of-choice/
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There was a good talk about that at the INOA End of the World Rally in Vermont,
I think I have a t-shirt from there.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
I think I have a t-shirt from there.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
htown16
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Saw an interesting concept in latest issue of Cafe Racer in an article on carb floats. Seems this guy has come up with a method to remove ethanol. He puts 4 gal of ethanol laced gas in a translucent container and adds 10 oz of water to it.
Water draws the ethanol out out of the gasoline and settles as a layer at the bottom and then he decants the ethanol free gas off the top. The Stabil article alludes to something similar when they talk about forming a water/ethanol layer in the bottom of the tank that can only be removed by draining the tank. Sounds like it should work, thinking about doing an experiment on it using a smaller volume, maybe run it in a small engine like a lawn mower first.
Water draws the ethanol out out of the gasoline and settles as a layer at the bottom and then he decants the ethanol free gas off the top. The Stabil article alludes to something similar when they talk about forming a water/ethanol layer in the bottom of the tank that can only be removed by draining the tank. Sounds like it should work, thinking about doing an experiment on it using a smaller volume, maybe run it in a small engine like a lawn mower first.
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Ancient basic alchemist way to separate many different mixed up liquids. You can add as much water as ya like to the ethanol gasoline to pull almost all the booze out of it into water on bottom gas on top. An extra hassle compared to just draining a stored tank/carb and burn the spiked gas off in something else. Of course avoiding fast dissolving floats would have too.
or just buy ethanol free fuel for the old bikes. That is what I do, then enhance with Stabil, octane booster, and 100:1 2 stroke oil. carbies, floats, slides, petcocks, valve gear, everything is happy happy happy and has been for over 10 years now since I made this change.
htown16 said:
Once you cause the phase separation, the gas that is left is most likely 83 octane, too low to run. If your base unlead is 87 octane, that process might work for you. Dicey. You need to know what the base is.
Phase separation is amazing to look at. In a jug, you see the the layers like parfait, shake the hell out of the jug and it separates right back instantly. There's no going back, it stays separated. Since our area changed over to the 83 octane+10% ethanol = 87 octane recipe, several of our customers have had phase separation in their tanks, and the crap near the bottom, the ethanol/water mix gets sucked up the pump first and screws up the vehicles.
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Stabil additive is not particularly much help for boozed gasoline issues of solvent and water collector, its more for the oxidation and gel gumming up of plain un-leaded gasoline. The farmers here order 100's gallons non-booze gas with Stabil added to store on farm in over head stand tanks as I do too. when season warms up for summer low volatility gasoline formula I'll have my 300 gal tank topped off with them adding Stabil for me of extra cost of course. I go about 2-3 yr tapping it for saws, mowers, farm PU and cycles and car too some, if not enough gas left to make it 20 miles to a station. Its a type of investment for me as we know it ain't getting cheaper out in the wild.
On a funny side note, I got a 500 & 300 gal tank/stand set at a auction and got em home and set up but when they put gas in 300 gal tank half a dozen bottom rust leaks showed up. A bit freaked it'd leak it all out in a day I took self tapping roofing sheet metal screws and ran one in each hole to stop it. That was almost 15 yr ago and still gas tight amazingly.
On a funny side note, I got a 500 & 300 gal tank/stand set at a auction and got em home and set up but when they put gas in 300 gal tank half a dozen bottom rust leaks showed up. A bit freaked it'd leak it all out in a day I took self tapping roofing sheet metal screws and ran one in each hole to stop it. That was almost 15 yr ago and still gas tight amazingly.
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Red dye is likely trade secret but here's some data points on Stabil scope.
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/faq.aspx
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/faq.aspx
850cmndo
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Q: How do I remove a spill-related red stain?
A: If spilled immediately blot-up STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer with a paper towel. If a stain remains, moisten a paper towel with mineral spirits (common paint thinner) or dry cleaning fluid available at most hardware stores and home centers. Test for color fastness, then place moistened towel on the stained area for 30 seconds -- this may be repeated twice. Rinse area with Isopropanol (common rubbing alcohol).
Guess that's my point...
A: If spilled immediately blot-up STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer with a paper towel. If a stain remains, moisten a paper towel with mineral spirits (common paint thinner) or dry cleaning fluid available at most hardware stores and home centers. Test for color fastness, then place moistened towel on the stained area for 30 seconds -- this may be repeated twice. Rinse area with Isopropanol (common rubbing alcohol).
Guess that's my point...
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Implies the red dye is organic non-polar hydrocarbon based not water soluble polarized food dye type stain so might not react as an allergen to dylexic - autistic tendencies but as a direct poison like other organic solvents are famous for. Latest research shows all cancers are pure random cell reactions that have no relation to dose of exposure, like Russian Roulette though of course the more concentrated and often exposed is like spinning the cylinder more times with more bullets loaded to put barrel to head the more likely random fates will strike ya down.
A small dash of Bean-Oil 2 smoke helps intake guides slide and smells like model air plane engines and vintage race events.
A small dash of Bean-Oil 2 smoke helps intake guides slide and smells like model air plane engines and vintage race events.
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I will try to contract Stabil and ask what red dye chemical used for those that might be sensitive to it, maybe from prior over dose exposures from other stuff not directly fuel related. i have over dosed on Bean-oil in my chain saws in still air in deep brush jobs in summer humidity til had to evacuate and dilute down or vomit and swoon while i work.
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Fuel additives (not stabilizers) are problematic for me. Same for using av-gas or high octane racing fuels. Works great for the tank full leaving on a ride, but when that runs out in the middle of the ride the re-fuel is still what's available at the pump. Unless you ride out an back on one tank what's the point. Stabilizers are great for when the fuel sits in the tank while waiting for the next ride.
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