Electronic ignition

What's the deal with electronic ignition running points some time s starting sucks when every thing is perfect no problem is it worth it and what kind do you all recommend

I have pazon on all my bikes and have never had a problem also put pazon on pal's bikes too use 6V coils might as well get podtronics or typmanium while you are upgrading elec. system

what Alan said only my EI is a Boyer MK4 , works great

PJFlynn said:

What's the deal with electronic ignition running points some time s starting sucks when every thing is perfect no problem is it worth it and what kind do you all recommend

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If I am understanding your question which I interpret as: Why do some electronic ignitions utilize points and, therefore, a mechanical advance? If this is your question then the answer is that such systems greatly diminish the current load on the points which permits the points to last much longer. The downside is that the point heels will still wear and the ancient mechanical advance units don't stop wearing either, crap in crap out. My opinion is that such hybrid systems have a very poor value proposition.

Popular full electronic system for your Norton are: Boyer, Pazon, TriSpark, Wassell, Power Arc; all available in various "flavors", and all discussed to madness on the forum. Each brand has its supporters and its detractors, so pick your own poison. In all cases where installed on a street bike there is little to no difference except for price point and ease/lack of ease of installation and tuning. I have installed and used all the above and will not offer my opinion on them for fear of starting yet another pointless, protracted exchange of barbs. You can go blind reading all the threads about EIs, and will probably be considerably more confused then when you started reading, however, if you persevere and make a discovery akin to penecilicin please share.

Buy what you want/can afford, follow the manufacturer's instructions TO THE LETTER, move on and go worry about something else.

Your Norton is very adept at showing you Gordian Knots.

Best

In 1978 I replaced my points after the advance unit ceased up and replaced with a Lucas Rita, it failed before 12 months and it was replaced with a Boyar it failed in 1982 but it wasn't the Boyar fault, the major fire was the black box undoing, so replaced it with another Boyar and it was on the bike till about 8 years ago and was still going without any problems but I replaced it with the Joe Hunt Maggie so now run without a battery and very little wiring, a lot of people complain about Boyar EI with kick back mine only did that 2 times in all the years it was on my Norton, if they are tuned right they don't kick back, but I do love my Joe Hunt Maggie but of course everyone will say it has no advance, I just laugh, it starts on first kick every time, first kick for the day one big swing on the kicker after its been started for the day it will fire on 1/2 a swing on the kicker every time and the faster it spins the bigger the spark.
The first Joe Hunt Maggie on my old 81 Triumph Thunderbird was on the bike for 9 years and I clocked up 250k kms without any problems with the JH and the new Joe Hunt's are better than the old ones, its been on my Norton for nearly 8 years now and has about 35k miles on it and I haven't touched it, so really its up to you what you want to put on your bike, just do your homework first and remember everyone will have their own opinion and there have been a lot of EIs that have failed.

Ashley

This is my translation of the original query:

“What's the deal with electronic ignition?
I am running points. Sometimes starting is difficult, even though everything appears to be adjusted and in order.

Is electronic ignition it worth it and what kind do you all recommend?”

Using the original points system doesn’t cause starting problems, unless they are worn, maladjusted or dirty, or some other components are faulty.

The common types of electronic ignition appear to be just fine, but may not fix your problem because we don’t know why your bike is hard to start.

How much money are you willing to spend, and how well does your Norton idle? The answers to these questions could narrow down your EI choices.

Triton Thrasher said:

This is my translation of the original query:

“What's the deal with electronic ignition?
I am running points. Sometimes starting is difficult, even though everything appears to be adjusted and in order.

Is electronic ignition it worth it and what kind do you all recommend?”

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My translation, with punctuation and added words (in brackets) was :
What's the deal with electronic ignition? (I am) running points, some time s starting sucks... (but) when every thing is perfect, no problem. is it worth it and what kind do you all recommend ?

Triton Thrasher said:

This is my translation of the original query:

“What's the deal with electronic ignition?
I am running points. Sometimes starting is difficult, even though everything appears to be adjusted and in order.

Is electronic ignition it worth it and what kind do you all recommend?”

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Yes my interpretation also. Punctuation is a wonderful thing, ain't it?

If the Bmt put: If the B. putting :

One can easily graduate from high school in the USA and be barely literate.

Panda eats, shoots and leaves!

Tornado said:

Panda eats, shoots and leaves!

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He's bloody lucky the natives haven't found a use for his gall bladder!

EstuaryBoy said:

He's bloody lucky the natives haven't found a use for his gall bladder!

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Won't shed a tear for them. I live in constant fear of finding one knawing on my homemade bamboo bike!

Fast Eddie said:

I suggest we invite the OP to re type his question, in English, with some pronunciation...

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We don’t need to know how he pronounces it.

I use an early Boyer on my 850. It probably has a fixed advance curve, but if you are looking for performance, programmable advance curves are probably a good way to go. There are about 4 variables in getting your tuning right. fuel type, comp. ratio, jetting, inlet port size and the shape of the ignition advance curve. I my case, I use methanol fuel, standard compression ratio, supposedly fixed advance. 30mm inlet ports. I vary the size of the needle jest and the shape of the needle to get the mid-range jetting right.
So in effect, all but two of the variables are fixed. If you have a programmable advance curve, you can adjust the ignition advance in a much more flexible way.
If I was not so lazy, I would buy a modern Boyer and work with it. However methanol fuel hides-up your tuning errors. So I would probably only get real value from a programmable ignition system, if I wanted to race using petrol as fuel. For a street bike, a fixed ignition curve is probably better. The closer you get your tuning to ideal, the more weather dependent it probably becomes.

With my Boyer, I try to avoid ever moving the position of the pick-up, because that can mean re-jetting to restore the tuning balance.