ELECTRIC START NOISE
- Thread starter MK 111
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,110
MK 111 said:
In that case I'm [Edit]not sure. It sounds as if it could be kicking back and/or backfiring through the carbs and I've never knowm mine to squirt fuel from the carbs though.
What type of ignition has it got? Points or electronic ignition (if electronic, which type)?
You could try operating the starter with the primary cover removed as you may be able to spot an apparent problem with the starter drive by watching the mechanism?
yeah i reckon your right GRM 450 the battery has been on its way out the last 2-3 weeks,,,,thanks for the advice,,,im only new to the NORTON ,,have had dirtbikes all my life so this forum is of great help,,,in saying that im more addicted to this site than my kids are to facebook which is a massive call..
GRM 450 said:
Mk111, LAB was on the verge of saying the same thing I bet he ered on the cautious side.
If you do have an older boyer, it can advance if it doesn't have full voltage making the engine kick back and perhaps causing the noise.
Is the fuel/air mix being blown back out of the carb? or squirting out somewhere else?
AntrimMan noted the noise could be the Anti Backfire device doing its job and making a noise.
A good battery, good cables and connections are a must with Mk3s. Mine has a standard starter motor and starts fine when the engine is warm but some times I have to kick it when cold.
Get the best battery with the most CCA you can afford and it will last a long time.
(all the above learnt on this site, Thanks)
Regards
graeme
If you do have an older boyer, it can advance if it doesn't have full voltage making the engine kick back and perhaps causing the noise.
Is the fuel/air mix being blown back out of the carb? or squirting out somewhere else?
AntrimMan noted the noise could be the Anti Backfire device doing its job and making a noise.
A good battery, good cables and connections are a must with Mk3s. Mine has a standard starter motor and starts fine when the engine is warm but some times I have to kick it when cold.
Get the best battery with the most CCA you can afford and it will last a long time.
(all the above learnt on this site, Thanks)
Regards
graeme
yes, start with a known good battery fully topped up and go from there.
The battery and connections is the easy place to begin.
The entire starter system is thought by some to be marginal and adequate by others.
There are suggested cable and other improvements on Dyno Daves atlantic green web site as well as the Norton Andover heavier cables too and others as well I'm sure.
Recently there has been credible discussion here of the often overlooked earthing problems that may also arise. A good return path is vital.
Get the ign timing straightened out by whatever means while you are at it, the working MGD 4111 motor is rare and the internal bits in the chaincase are very dear to replace. They make the cost of a good complete ignition system pale in comparison.
Every thing from the battery all the way to the oil viscosity will have some influence.
All the best.
The battery and connections is the easy place to begin.
The entire starter system is thought by some to be marginal and adequate by others.
There are suggested cable and other improvements on Dyno Daves atlantic green web site as well as the Norton Andover heavier cables too and others as well I'm sure.
Recently there has been credible discussion here of the often overlooked earthing problems that may also arise. A good return path is vital.
Get the ign timing straightened out by whatever means while you are at it, the working MGD 4111 motor is rare and the internal bits in the chaincase are very dear to replace. They make the cost of a good complete ignition system pale in comparison.
Every thing from the battery all the way to the oil viscosity will have some influence.
All the best.
- Status
Similar threads
