Earth path on a 71

How does the earth path run on a 71 and how might it be improved without a wholesale remaking of the wiring loom?

I see earthing points at the cylinder heads from the warning light assimilation and earth wires at the zenor diode, I will be removing both of these when fitting an Aone regulator/rectifier. So trying to ensure that I maintain a proper earth path (running a Boyer as well).

All advice welcome

How does the earth path run on a 71 and how might it be improved without a wholesale remaking of the wiring loom?
Do you have an earthing problem????

earthing points at the cylinder heads from the warning light assimilation
I got no idea what your talking about, someone else may!!!

Aone reg/rec, does it have intstuctions?? and why are you using it ???

If you dont have a wiring diagram it would be a good idea to get one...... I have no real answers for you questions cos i dont see a problem.

I know this wont help but its a start................

Those ground (earth) wires are shared with lights and all other electrical devices, usually with red wires. The commonality all goes back to the positive terminal of the battery.

When in doubt, dedicate a line to a known point like where the strap attatches to the frame from the positive terminal.

Having 4 grounding points is not uncommon. Headlamp shell, head, somewhere around the tail light, frame at or near the battery, etc.
Bare metal contact is the key.

I have in the past made a good bare metal contact and then painted the lug over with liquid electrical tape to seal it. Overkill in this regard is hard to attain.

The red wires are the return path to the battery and you will probably notice that there are a number of terminals with more than one wire crimped to the same terminal. If you disconnect these wires don't simply cut the terminal off. The wires need to be connected together. Either leave the old terminal on or if you cut the wire you need to splice those same colored wires together. The reason is that those push on terminals also double as a wire splice. There is no internal splicing in the harness only at the various terminals. The same goes with the zener diode terminal. Go ahead and inspect both of the brown & blue wires and red wires to ensure that the crimped terminals are in good condition. Even though you are no longer using the zener diode those wire connections need to be in good condition. If they are suspect go ahead and cut and splice those wires however, instead of splicing the red wires I would put another ring terminal on them and ground it to the z-plate. The reason is that there are a couple items on the motorcycle that rely on chassis ground such as the turn signals.

As for hooking up your A-one regulator, probably the most convenient place to hook up would be where the rectifier was connected. As for the Boyer, I would hook the 'ground' to a red wire terminates instead of trying to find a nice ground point on the bike.

All ground or earth connection points should be made on a bare metal surface. An internal or external "star" washer should be between the metal surface and the ring terminal, which will " bite" into the metal on tightening the screw or nut. The connection may be covered as Pete.v suggests.

Slick

Many thanks guys,

After looking at the wiring diagram, and playing around with my voltmeter to work out continuity, I think that I'm sorted. the ground wires on the zenor have been resecured to the Z plate, the yellows from the A one have been connected directly to the alternator. The main power wires and the black from A one have been fitted to the - point on the battery with a fuse.

Using the continuity tester, a get continuity when I check the ground wires at the battery with frame and engine and Boyer ground so it looks as if I have a decent earth.