Dyno Dave Mk 3 Starter motor connection (s) .

Torontonian

Torontonian

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Disconnected the starter and forgot how to reconnect it properly again . I have a large bronze phillips screw , 2 bronze screws , 2 bronze nuts , 2 black rubber (insulator) washers ( now hard ) , 3 bronze washers too . There is a bracket to support the electrical bronze screw assembly . Out of the starter motor itself is a short thick lead to it's angled copper large connector piece end . I do't want to risk a short when I hit the magic button .
There is a long thick wire from the solenoid that has a terminal boot for attachment at the motor electrical .
The only reason I took the motor off was to replace a disintegrated O-ring , and all I can find for that is : 1.5 mm x 68 mm. E 10 Spec. for gas and oil .
Dripping gas from Amals . Where to get these big O-rings Too .
Thanks .
 
Installing a deflector shield against dripping carbs would be a good idea, I think.

- Knut
 
mdt-son said:
Installing a deflector shield against dripping carbs would be a good idea, I think.

- Knut
Click to expand...
Yes , I could/ should make a deflector shield for the D.D. starter . If I continue to choose to retain drippy Amals .
To be honest , they don't drip , all drips were from over-tickling in this freezing climate to achieve a rich start mixture .
Any shield designs or ideas ?
 
Torontonian said:
Disconnected the starter and forgot how to reconnect it properly again . I have a large bronze phillips screw , 2 bronze screws , 2 bronze nuts , 2 black rubber (insulator) washers ( now hard ) , 3 bronze washers too . There is a bracket to support the electrical bronze screw assembly . Out of the starter motor itself is a short thick lead to it's angled copper large connector piece end . I do't want to risk a short when I hit the magic button .
There is a long thick wire from the solenoid that has a terminal boot for attachment at the motor electrical .
The only reason I took the motor off was to replace a disintegrated O-ring , and all I can find for that is : 1.5 mm x 68 mm. E 10 Spec. for gas and oil .
Dripping gas from Amals . Where to get these big O-rings Too .
Thanks .
Click to expand...
Whenever I take stuff apart that I've never done before, phone pics all the way are your best friend.

Contact the man if you still have no joy.

Atlantic Green Tech Svc https://share.google/K2b3nUCsRET9oSdNt
 
Torontonian said:
Any shield designs or ideas ?
Click to expand...
Something along the lines of the T160 shield.

Dyno Dave Mk 3 Starter motor connection (s) .

- Knut
 
Torontonian said:
Disconnected the starter and forgot how to reconnect it properly again . I have a large bronze phillips screw , 2 bronze screws , 2 bronze nuts , 2 black rubber (insulator) washers ( now hard ) , 3 bronze washers too . There is a bracket to support the electrical bronze screw assembly . Out of the starter motor itself is a short thick lead to it's angled copper large connector piece end . I do't want to risk a short when I hit the magic button .
There is a long thick wire from the solenoid that has a terminal boot for attachment at the motor electrical .
The only reason I took the motor off was to replace a disintegrated O-ring , and all I can find for that is : 1.5 mm x 68 mm. E 10 Spec. for gas and oil .
Dripping gas from Amals . Where to get these big O-rings Too .
Thanks .
Click to expand...
Do these pictures help at all ? Basically the rubber or plastic washers are insulators I would say, which are intended to stop the cable from the solenoid shorting on the starter body.

1777893322760.jpeg


1777893535152.jpeg


Edit.

I reckon this is the assembly order.

1) Brass washer over bolt.
2) Bolt upwards through starter cable.
3) Rubber insulator washer next onto bolt ( if it has a shoulder face that away from the bolt head).
4) Now push the bolt through the mounting bracket, and place the other insulator washer onto the bolt ( if it has a shoulder face that towards the bolt head).
5) Place a brass washer over the bolt, followed by one of the nuts. Ensure the bolt is central in the bracket hole, then fully tighten the nut and bolt.

(If you Haven’t attached the bracket to the starter already, you can use a meter the check that there is no continuity between the bolt and the bracket).

The remaining brass nut and washer will attach the cable from the solenoid to the bolt.

Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
cliffa said:
Do these pictures help at all ? Basically the rubber or plastic washers are insulators I would say, which are intended to stop the cable from the solenoid shorting on the starter body.

View attachment 124665

View attachment 124666

Edit.

I reckon this is the assembly order.

1) Brass washer over bolt.
2) Bolt upwards through starter cable.
3) Rubber insulator washer next onto bolt ( if it has a shoulder face that away from the bolt head).
4) Now push the bolt through the mounting bracket, and place the other insulator washer onto the bolt ( if it has a shoulder face that towards the bolt head).
5) Place a brass washer over the bolt, followed by one of the nuts. Ensure the bolt is central in the bracket hole, then fully tighten the nut and bolt.

(If you Haven’t attached the bracket to the starter already, you can use a meter the check that there is no continuity between the bolt and the bracket).

The remaining brass nut and washer will attach the cable from the solenoid to the bolt.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Your efforts really help me . My brain was focussed on Africa all winter , so lost brain electrical synapses continuity to recall what connected to what . The rubber insulator washers placements seem important to reassembly .
 

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