Drifts for punching out wheel bearings

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powerdoc

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Is there a diameter of drift that is better than others for this operation? Is there a better tool for pulling the bearings than punching them out when you don't intend to reuse the bearing?
 
Boy I am all ears if there is such civilized tool approach as you imagine and ask for. All's I can say is I cut-ground 3 notches out end of the trapped alignment of the spacer tube for the next generation ease and nod at your long range thoughtfulness. I heat hub and then beat the snot out of my hand and the bearings out with sharpened damaging drift and 3# sludge. Ordinary rusted fused in hub bearings in other cases may just drop our with enough heat the grease is burning; Its just simple as pie mechanics nothing at all to get bloody caveman emotional over...
 
I like the largest diameter bronze rod I can find so that it limits the damage done to the inside diameter of my hub, should I contact it. I prefer one without a sharp edge for the same reason.

Russ
 
Search the web for "internal bearing puller" or "bearing extractor".
I recently bought a set containing 4 expanding pullers and a slide hammer suitable for bearings from 10 to 32 mm internal diameter. Cost 30 Euros. Works great.
 
Tusk makes a good set of expandable bearing removers. You are less likely to damage the wheel hub with pullers than with drifts and hammers.
 
Internal puller works great, yeah. Could ya make this available for postage to us that need it twice every life time or so? Heat and beat may be all it takes if not distorted or rust swollen. Wet rag in bearing helps the thermal difference more.
 
I don't mind loaning out tools. In the last year, I replaced 6 wheel bearings on the Laverda and both steering head bearings, 4 wheel bearings on the Commando and both head bearings and 4 wheel bearings on my T100R project. I think I got my money's worth. One wheel on the Laverda was buggered up by p.o. hamfisted bearing replacement and needed a wheel specialist to eliminate the wobble from distorted bearing seat. Tool set cost equivalent of 20 good beers; wheel repair equivalent of 60 good beers.
 
I pour a couple of kettles full of boiling water over aluminium hubs and find the bearings just tap out with a soft drift using the spacer first. Absolutely no need to whack them hard.
 
Yeah, the Norton bearings are pretty easy with a little heat. I've got nice new sealed bearings all around. But I have the multiple bike disorder; always taking something apart.
 
Front or back wheel ? what that did in manual about driving them out with spindle or does that only work for back?
I could get layshaft bearing out so I MIG welded a nut to it then heated case yet again an slide hammered it out.
Same works on wheel an other bearings if you just weld on inner race bearing seating will be ok as MIG is fast so not much heat transfer. I used to repair heavy machinery for steelworks an have got 20 inch diameter roller bearing out with that trick to
 
I have a very good drift set the secret is to tap them out, no need to bash them out just slowly work your way around the inner bearing and they will tap out easy, just remember the more force you do to them the more chance of damage, so slow and easy is the way to go.

Ashley
 
If they ain't trash already they are after pulling of drifting. Its nice that so many have so little difficulty but so of these are horrific stuck. Such is the scope of Norton extremes. You wear me out just reading your pulling list Chris. Quickest way is weld a stick on till glowing race then wait 30 sec and lift right out slicker than...
 
The simplest solution is usually the better solution (Occan's razor) and having the proper tool makes this job simple and easy. I doublt many previous owners changed steering bearing grease. fluids, or much else as per workshop mannual. I keep finding dry crust where slick grease should be and goeey water where fork oil should be.
 
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