Cylinder oil leak

Stephen Hill said:
Why fit new studs? Is there something wrong with original studs? Or are you referring to an upgraded version?
Click to expand...
Did you read any of the thread?

I may have a racers mentality of changing anything I doubt the integrity of, but pulling the engine apart isn't something you want to do every year, like I tend to do, but why not use new and available consumable parts?

Upgraded parts? I might use the available ARP 12 sided nuts.

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CYLINDER BARREL STUD NUT & WASHER FIXING KIT 1972 - 06.7342

CYLINDER BARREL STUD NUT & WASHER FIXING KIT 1972
andover-norton.co.uk

Upgraded parts? I might use the available ARP 12 sided nuts.

coloradonortonworks.net

cNw / ARP Barrel Mounting Kit

Custom made Stainless studs Studs are short to allow you to install the nuts after the barrel is completely seated Polished ends on studs 12 Point, stainless ARP nuts The 12 point nut allows you to use a closed end wrench to tighten, giving you a far better engagement than an open end wrench...
coloradonortonworks.net coloradonortonworks.net
 
I read the thread. I would not have thought that every time you take the head and cylinder off you would replace all the fasteners. This is a straight question: What fasteners would you replace when you re and re a cylinder head and barrel? All the studs? All the nuts? All the bolts? All the washers? Every time? What if you used the upgraded ARP bolts last time? Replace them too?
 
To update - I pulled the the top end and discovered a split in the base gasket that I must have done during the original assembly. In installed a new one with sealant. Regarding the studs, all of them are installed down to the plain section. As I recall, the cases were missing their studs when I had them vapor blasted and as I was building the bike out of bits and pieces I had lying around, I must have installed ones that are from different bikes but with the correct threads. The leak is rectified.
 

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Stephen Hill said:
I read the thread. I would not have thought that every time you take the head and cylinder off you would replace all the fasteners. This is a straight question: What fasteners would you replace when you re and re a cylinder head and barrel? All the studs? All the nuts? All the bolts? All the washers? Every time? What if you used the upgraded ARP bolts last time? Replace them too?
Click to expand...
Only replace on torque to yield bolts or if they look knackered ! 😅
 
Stephen Hill said:
I read the thread. I would not have thought that every time you take the head and cylinder off you would replace all the fasteners. This is a straight question: What fasteners would you replace when you re and re a cylinder head and barrel? All the studs? All the nuts? All the bolts? All the washers? Every time? What if you used the upgraded ARP bolts last time? Replace them too?
Click to expand...
I’m think the point is that the studs looked like the wrong ones, and may not be utilising all of the threads in the case.
 

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