cylinder install question/advice

S

sharon piquet

Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Messages
43
currently installling the cylinder on my 850. the workshop manual refers to "locktite" plastic gasket material to the cylinder base flange....are there
any "gasket sealers" that I can use with good results? also the manual puts the locktite on in step #1 but doesn't put the cylinder on until step #13...will this be an issue I need to foresee?

thanks for any and all advice!

Sharon and ....Jim
 
Lock tight has an anaerobic sealer the sets up with the LACK of air and remains a little flexible. I don't have the # right off but I will say it is a little pricey and use it sparingly so you don't block off the drain hole from the head at the rear of the engine. with this sealer you DON'T use a base gasket!
 
I used Yamabond 4 aka Hondabond 4 aka Three Bond TB1194 on my cylinder. Gray stuff - sets up soft. Found it at my local giant Japanese all-brand dealer. No leaks!


Russ
 
Apply the sealant last,if you put it on first you will have sealant and oil spread from top to bottom.Just before you sit the barrels down fully, degrease all sealing surfaces then apply a bead of sealant,don't forget to start the nuts before the barrels touch the sealant.Personally I prefer to use good quality grey silicones,threebond,loctite maxbond ect. not all silicones are created equal and that red crap is just plan disgusting. A piece of wire or small cable tie down the barrel drain hole will keep it clear, or you could just fit a base gasket.
 
Sharon
I think Mick Hemmings uses Wellseal Jointing Compound to bond on the two crankcase halves and he leaves it over night to set.
He puts the crankcase to cylinder base gasket on Dry, but he uses Wellseal on the flame ring cylinder head gasket.
at least thats what he does in Norton Engine Rebuild DVD
Regards,
CNN
 
sharon piquet said:
currently installling the cylinder on my 850. the workshop manual refers to "locktite" plastic gasket material to the cylinder base flange....are there
any "gasket sealers" that I can use with good results? also the manual puts the locktite on in step #1 but doesn't put the cylinder on until step #13...will this be an issue I need to foresee?
Click to expand...



"Locktite" is generally associated with various thread locking compounds, but, of course, they do also sell other products, including gasket sealants, and "Locktite Plastic Gasket" was a type of silicone gasket sealant, if I remember correctly?

However any good quality brand of gasket sealant such as those that have been recommended should be fine.

One thing to note is that the manual instructions were written when NO BASE GASKET was fitted as standard by the factory.

And that was the reason why they specify the use of a plastic gasket sealant. If you were to fit a base gasket, then it would normally be fitted dry
 
"Locktite Plastic Gasket" was a type of silicone gasket sealant, if I remember correctly?
Click to expand...

Actually it was an anaerobic sealant. That is what you want to use. Loctite 518 I believe is the current version. Other sealant manufacturers make similar products. Siicone is not advised here. Anerobic will not cure in areas where there is air present, so any squeezed inside the engine stays liquid and dissolves in the oil.

Silcone will form little balls of rubber and can block the oil passages.

Base gaskets were eliminated to help solve issues with gasket failure leading to or caused by loose barrel stud nuts. The adhesive helped to "glue" the barrels to the cases. Base gaskets re-appeared with the 850 and the through bolted cylinders.
 
splat

it might be disgusting stuff but it is one of the best things for this application.
if i remember it was originally designed for rolls royce and it has been used buy others such as OMC ( johnson evenrude ) to seal the crank case half's.
 
Ron L said:
Actually it was an anaerobic sealant. That is what you want to use. Loctite 518 I believe is the current version. Other sealant manufacturers make similar products. Siicone is not advised here. Anerobic will not cure in areas where there is air present, so any squeezed inside the engine stays liquid and dissolves in the oil.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected, as I was probably thinking of Hermetite "Instant Gasket"? I certainly don't remember anything like Locktite 518 being readily available in the UK during the early seventies?
I think most UK Commandos would probably have been reassembled with whatever was on the shelf at the local Halfords store, which was likely to have been either Red Hermetite...or...Red Hermetite!


Ron L said:
Base gaskets re-appeared with the 850 and the through bolted cylinders.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that base gaskets disappeared around the time of the introduction of the 850 ('73)? As base gaskets weren't listed in either the '73 or '74 parts books? And only reappeared around the time of the 850 MkIII?
 
I Just checked my spares and I have a 06 5030 engine gasket set from Andover Norton and the kit comes with a base gasket. So Its up to you what you use. I use Stag Wellseal and DP 300 made by Wurth this stuff is manufactured under licence from Rolls-Royce Ltd. I use that on my Series II LandRover and other engine rebuilds that came along. They both behave the same by remaining flexible and it never sets Hard. It also dissolves in Oils. Bill. I think its called Hylomar.
 
Wurth make or made a use full clear sealant,called engine paste,it was good for holding gasket in place,hylomar was good but bloody hard to apply, although at one time you could purchase it in a spray can,good for head shims or steel gaskets.Series 11 landrover,you are a sick puppy aren't you,I suppose you have a couple of tridents lurking in your shed to.
 
I have moved 100% to the loctite anaerobic sealant of which 518 is one version, I get MOD surplus stock off ebay UK. I used to use Hylomar blue which was good but the risk of it blocking an oil way was too high in my mind, the 518 works well and gives piece of mind.
 
I have always run a base gasket in my Mk111 because that's what the book said when I first started. However, as a result of an early failure, I now remove the head after running the new gasket for a while and re-torque the cylinder fittings. This is a real pain-in-the-posterior as it usually means a new head gasket (and re-torquing the new head gasket).

It seems to me self-evident (with the benefit of hindsight :) ) that check-tightening the cylinder fixings as per the book will leave the through bolts not doing any work at all as they cannot be checked, surely thus defeating the point of having them ? They do settle with a base gasket fitted, believe me.

I intend to omit the gasket after the next re-bore. I'm just starting to get a wear lip at the top and it doesn't seem to be a good idea to let the rings ride up on this which would be the effect of deleting the gasket and thus dropping the cylinder a fraction.
 
The base gasket will give a bit and lose a little clamping force but is it enough to warrant head removal. When I originally converted to 850 style 750 barrels I used an 030" spacer plate + 2 gaskets to drop the Combat compression to about 8.7:1. I torqued all bolts and nuts +10% and never found any to have lost much torque when the head was removed one time. However, I do use a smear of DIY silicone (no need for overpriced automotive gasket goo) and never had leaks anywhere. I've since removed the gaskets as I felt the lower CR did nothing for my 750 which has had some headwork done and means I don't have to think about pulling the head to retorque!
 
Excovkid
I got Engine "Heavyweight Twin Rebuild" and the "Gearbox Rebuild" DVD from http://www.inoanorton.com/ click on Merchandise-scroll down Bracebridge St. Depot…Jim Evens…good guy to deal with.
If you are not a member... you should be. Lots of good Tech help and you get Norton News Magazine and you get PMS which is Parts,Service,Membership Directory…where you can find all the Dealers and people around your area for help....All Top Notch
Regards,
CNN
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top