Cylinder head temp

B

Britjunkie

Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
63
Richard-7 can probably answer this but I thought I'd let the members check out what I found on my bike. I have the SBN "torque" pipes installed and the bike runs fairly well until it's shut off. After pie a la mode and coffee, the bike restarts fine but has a terrible flat spot between 3600-4000 rpm. MCC currently has the ecu to check out the mapping. I'm currently doing a spring once over of the bike [so far, broken chain guard, fractured tire hugger, loose screws etc.] I found the wire to the cyl. head temp sensor crushed from incorrect routing and it seems to me that this could be the reason for the poor running after the bike is restarted. I figure if my wiring was crushed the rest of you ought to check yours because I haven't been in that area until now. Thanks, britjunkie. 2015 961 sport.
 
Britjunkie,

Do you have the SBN de-catted crossover pipe installed, or stock one with cats?
Which map do you currently have installed?
 
Stock with cats and the map is unknown. The ecu was sent to SBN and supposedly remapped, but they had it for a long time and lost it for about a month, I was just glad to get it back.
 
I had a similar flat spot 3600-4200 RPM on my 2013 CR with Dominator silencers, with the SBN de-catted crossover pipe.
There were other fueling issues as well at that time that needed sorting.
The flat spot was there initially when I used the stock 961 map. It improved a bit when I remapped to the 077 map.
Was finally gone when I had the 090 map installed.
Since you are using the Torquer silencers and stock crossover pipe with cats I would think that the 077 map should be about right for your setup.

Thanks for the heads up on the cyl hd temp sensor wire. I checked mine seems fine, but given its location it’s probably a good idea to keep an eye on it periodically.
 
I realize yours was very visable and suspect to the reason why it runs poorly. And I would agree as the main issue. However, there is a little thin wire inside the temp sensor that it easily broken if the plastic part is turned even by hand. And it is not so easy to notice. Happens on cars too. Once broken it might as well be missing. Same issues you are experiencing. Its unfortunate that sensor isnt better protected. As a side note, I had the flat spot for some time and finally it went away with a new BIN file loaded into the ecu. This is loaded in the same as a fuel map. But just a different file. Get a hold of Jonathan Reece (skeleton cycles on here) and he can load it for you. Hope this helps.
 
Britjunkie said:
Richard-7 can probably answer this but I thought I'd let the members check out what I found on my bike. I have the SBN "torque" pipes installed and the bike runs fairly well until it's shut off. After pie a la mode and coffee, the bike restarts fine but has a terrible flat spot between 3600-4000 rpm. MCC currently has the ecu to check out the mapping. I'm currently doing a spring once over of the bike [so far, broken chain guard, fractured tire hugger, loose screws etc.] I found the wire to the cyl. head temp sensor crushed from incorrect routing and it seems to me that this could be the reason for the poor running after the bike is restarted. I figure if my wiring was crushed the rest of you ought to check yours because I haven't been in that area until now. Thanks, britjunkie. 2015 961 sport.
Click to expand...

Hello Britjunkie , Where was the crush point ? Thanks
 
It was about 6 " above the temp sensor, looked like it was pinched in-between the idle solenoid and it's mounting. That said, I was able to get leads small enough to insert into the ecu harness plug and the continuity checks out, so thats not my problem. Rats.
 
Re: Chain guard. Do yourself a favor. If its under warranty, pay the balance for a carbon fiber one. Mine broke too right on the 90 where its mounted in the front. Thin crap. And the bike never got wet for it to rust. The CF is much better.
 
Same thing happened to me with the chain guard but I've had two replaced under warranty, thinking that a CF unit may also fracture I didn't want to waste my money. So the CF unit has held up? If I do another one I'll definitely go for a CF.
 
The CF chain guard is WAY better. Its has meatier mounting points and no thin areas. It is not impervious to moisture so it can't rust. Although stiff and brittle, it quite strong. Broken chain guards I've been told by someone at the factory, are not uncommon. Mines a 2013. Not sure if they've upgraded the newer bikes.
 
I did 14'000 miles with the CF chain guard. Not at least because of its low weight and thus less vibration the CF one holds. The steel guard was repaired once and broke completely after 6'000 miles...
 
Try rubber washers under the flat washer and don't tighten too much. Also use Loctite on the bolts so they won't back out.
 
Well, another fly in the ointment! MCC only has 16 and 17 bikes on the floor and of course Norton changed the ecu harness so my older ecu [2015] won't fit. I tried calling Skeleton Cycles but the listed number doesn't work. Anyone else I can call for a remap? Thx. Mark
 
skeletoncycles
At
gmail.com

Pm me if you want Jonathan's area code. Heres the number. But I made it a little tougher for robots to get his number from this forum. +1 (area code for denver) 514-6745
 

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