cylinder head off,,whats causing this
- Thread starter MK 111
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The Normal Copper Gasket IS the SOFT Copper Gasket , AFTER youve annealed it ( essential ) .
Id through a bit off coppercoat on , or use a flame ring one ( ditto ) .
Are the bores glazed ? / worn ?
Pull the valve springs and investgate guides / clearance / seals .
No stone unturned .
:lol: 8) doesnt leave other issues if youre thorough .
Id through a bit off coppercoat on , or use a flame ring one ( ditto ) .
Are the bores glazed ? / worn ?
Pull the valve springs and investgate guides / clearance / seals .
No stone unturned .
:lol: 8) doesnt leave other issues if youre thorough .
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Could also be bad ring seal or gap. Copper is copper but with use work hardens so must be heated cherry red in all parts to soften first but don't need all parts cherry red at once, so small torch can do it over time. Blow by from rings can blow oil by copper gasket then smokes and coke the chamber. Check gap and eye ball the bores.
MK 111,
What we are trying to suggest is that the inlet valve guide boot has slipped off the guide, my bike did this and it looked exactly like your cylinder. If it is, its an easy fix, see the photos below:
You'll have to remove the offending valve springs.
Watch the left exhaust pipe in this video, this is what it looks like ( watch it full screen ), i popped the boot back on and all was well :
http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... l11001.mp4
Stick with the copper gaskets, they've worked OK for the past 40 odd years, you'll need to re-tourque a few times.
Suggest: fit the head torque up, run the bike really hot and let cool, re-torque, ride 30 miles, re-torque, ride 100 miles re-torque, ride 2 or 300 miles then re-torque, then may again at 1000 miles, you'll probably never need to touch again..........................
What we are trying to suggest is that the inlet valve guide boot has slipped off the guide, my bike did this and it looked exactly like your cylinder. If it is, its an easy fix, see the photos below:
You'll have to remove the offending valve springs.
Watch the left exhaust pipe in this video, this is what it looks like ( watch it full screen ), i popped the boot back on and all was well :
http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... l11001.mp4
Stick with the copper gaskets, they've worked OK for the past 40 odd years, you'll need to re-tourque a few times.
Suggest: fit the head torque up, run the bike really hot and let cool, re-torque, ride 30 miles, re-torque, ride 100 miles re-torque, ride 2 or 300 miles then re-torque, then may again at 1000 miles, you'll probably never need to touch again..........................
yeah looks exactly like mine josh,little smoke out of 1 exhaust when at idle,,and i thought that your picture was mine but enlarged,,,by the way when you say easy fix are you forgetting that those F..KING pushrods have to go back in...Josh Cox said:MK 111,
What we are trying to suggest is that the inlet valve guide boot has slipped off the guide, my bike did this and it looked exactly like your cylinder. If it is, its an easy fix, see the photos below:
You'll have to remove the offending valve springs.
Watch the left exhaust pipe in this video, this is what it looks like ( watch it full screen ), i popped the boot back on and all was well :
http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... l11001.mp4
Stick with the copper gaskets, they've worked OK for the past 40 odd years, you'll need to re-tourque a few times.
Suggest: fit the head torque up, run the bike really hot and let cool, re-torque, ride 30 miles, re-torque, ride 100 miles re-torque, ride 2 or 300 miles then re-torque, then may again at 1000 miles, you'll probably never need to touch again..........................
There is an easy way to do the push rods:
I went and purchased some elastic bands, took my testicles out of my wifes hand bag and had a crack. The elastic bands hold the tension on the pushrods while you jiggle everything into place ( well it worked for me ).
One smart bastard on here worked out how to do the boots without taking the head off, I couldn't make it work, but I have limited metal working gear.
I went and purchased some elastic bands, took my testicles out of my wifes hand bag and had a crack. The elastic bands hold the tension on the pushrods while you jiggle everything into place ( well it worked for me ).
One smart bastard on here worked out how to do the boots without taking the head off, I couldn't make it work, but I have limited metal working gear.
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My head looked exactly like that when one of me intake seals was gone. I would get puffs of smoke on deceleration when oil was getting pulled into the cylinder. I was burning about a pint of oil in 200 miles or so. Put new seals on and no more oil burning and no more smoke
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