Current on coils?

So... What boyer do you have NOW? black box? red box??...

You said your plugs are new... What are the plugs ?? BPR7ES?? BP7ES?? Champions?? What is the code number on them?

I assume that you removed an old boyer to install a new one?? correct?? Did the old one ever work to your knowledge??

How are you testing for spark?

o0norton0o said:

So... What boyer do you have NOW? black box? red box??...

Click to expand...

Black box

o0norton0o said:

You said your plugs are new... What are the plugs ?? BPR7ES?? BP7ES?? Champions?? What is the code number on them?

Click to expand...

BPR8ES from champion

o0norton0o said:

I assume that you removed an old boyer to install a new one?? correct?? Did the old one ever work to your knowledge??

Click to expand...

Yep, the original worked, bought a new one on eBay, A BOYER mkIII.

o0norton0o said:

How are you testing for spark?

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Directly on the engine, by removing the spark plug and kicking the bike. Tried the Boyer test procedures as recommended by LAD. No luck

phliper said:

o0norton0o said:

So... What boyer do you have NOW? black box? red box??...

Click to expand...

Black box

Click to expand...

OK, that's an analog boyer

phliper said:

o0norton0o said:

You said your plugs are new... What are the plugs ?? BPR7ES?? BP7ES?? Champions?? What is the code number on them?

Click to expand...

BPR8ES from champion

Click to expand...

That number is an NGK spark plug number, NOT a champion number. IF you have a champion it should be an N7Y. The proper NGK plug doesn't need to be a resistor plug for the analog boyer and also doesn't need to be as cool as an "8" plug. The standard is a "7" plug and the BP7ES is what you should try. (It isn't a resistor plug like the one you are using)

phliper said:

o0norton0o said:

I assume that you removed an old boyer to install a new one?? correct?? Did the old one ever work to your knowledge??

Click to expand...

Yep, the original worked, bought a new one on eBay, A BOYER mkIII.

Click to expand...

Right off the boyer website: MKIII and MKIV do not require suppressed plug caps for operation although we recommend using supressed 5000 ohm plug caps. Micro Digital and Micro Power units must be fitted with supressed plug caps. Plug caps fitted with suppression resistors are usually fitted to prevent radio interference. Radio interference (noise) can cause more complex electronic circuits like radios and computers to malfunction.

phliper said:

o0norton0o said:

How are you testing for spark?

Click to expand...

Directly on the engine, by removing the spark plug and kicking the bike. Tried the Boyer test procedures as recommended by LAD. No luck

Click to expand...

that's the hard way to do it because you shake the bike when you kick it... Here's how I do it. I pull the plugs out and take a pair of small spring clamps and pinch the plugs against the flat part of the head right where the fins stop to return backward near the spark plug hole. That leave both my hands free to work the wires from the points compartment to test for spark by removing the trigger wires from their pick up connectors so I can touch them together with the key ON.... to induce a spark (the whole troubleshooting process is explained on boyer's site) If you don't get a spark like that, kicking the bike isn't going to give you a spark. It's just going to keep you distracted so you can't see if your spark is non-existant or just very weak.


My advise is: go buy the right spark plugs NGK BP7ES, check your wiring against the simple wiring diagrams on boyer's site, Then bleed the carbs so they spit gas, twist the throttle to half way open, and give it a few kicks... report back...

phliper said:

I should have mist your suggestion about testing the coils with a different test. What is that test?

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I suggested you re-test the coil secondary circuits but without the spark (HT) leads connected.

o0norton0o said:

I assume that you removed an old boyer to install a new one?? correct?? Did the old one ever work to your knowledge??

phliper said:

Yep, the original worked, bought a new one on eBay, A BOYER mkIII.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Hopefully, you haven't thrown the old, apparently working, Boyer ignition and coils away? If not, then try substituting the old parts, one at a time (Boyer box, pickup, coil 1, coil 2) until you get sparks again?

Hopefully, you haven't thrown the old, apparently working, Boyer ignition and coils away? If not, then try substituting the old parts, one at a time (Boyer box, pickup, coil 1, coil 2) until you get sparks again?

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, yes I through it in the garbage... Don't yael at me... Loll

I will redo every tests in the correct order... I'm becoming an expert in spark diagnostics.

Ok, so after a prety busy month at the office, I'm back on the norton!

I bought new coils, I am running the Boyer test procedures. But I have a question, if I have painted my frame with powder coated paint, and paint my engine with high temperature paint, can this interfer in the spark process? When I check the voltage, I don't have any thing on the frame or the engine, except on the metal or iron piece.

thanks

phliper said:

I bought new coils, I am running the Boyer test procedures. But I have a question, if I have painted my frame with powder coated paint, and paint my engine with high temperature paint, can this interfer in the spark process? When I check the voltage, I don't have any thing on the frame or the engine, except on the metal or iron piece.

Click to expand...

As you are using separate coils, the spark plugs must have an electrical "return" to battery(+). A harness (red) wire connection at the head steady is the return to battery(+). Paint or powder coat can certainly interfere with that process so make sure there is a good ground/return between the cylinder head and the red return wiring, and ultimately, battery(+).
The Boyer pickup plate however, does not connect to ground.

phliper said:

I changed the old electronic ignition from Boyer for a new one. The red connects to the + of the primary coil, the black to the - of the secondary coil. There is a wire from the + of the primary to the - of the second. The white wire connects to the positive ground of the bike. There is also a wire from the + of the primary coil to the positive ground.

I did a test with a multimeter, and on 200 ohms, I got 2.3. Which seems to be ok.

Still no spark.

Any ideas.

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Hi.
The correct coils wiring diagram is + / - + / -; better two 6V in series with electronic ignition.
The first + coil goes to the red, and the second - coil goes to the black, from Boyer E I..
Ciao.
Piero
First +

As you are using separate coils, the spark plugs must have an electrical "return" to battery(+). A harness (red) wire connection at the head steady is the return to battery(+). Paint or powder coat can certainly interfere with that process so make sure there is a good ground/return between the cylinder head and the red return wiring, and ultimately, battery(+).
The Boyer pickup plate however, does not connect to ground.

Click to expand...

Can i put a ground wire from the interior of the cylinder head to the end of the spark plug to test?

phliper said:

As you are using separate coils, the spark plugs must have an electrical "return" to battery(+). A harness (red) wire connection at the head steady is the return to battery(+). Paint or powder coat can certainly interfere with that process so make sure there is a good ground/return between the cylinder head and the red return wiring, and ultimately, battery(+).
The Boyer pickup plate however, does not connect to ground.

Click to expand...

Can i put a ground wire from the interior of the cylinder head to the end of the spark plug to test?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you are referring to as the interior or which end of the plug you mean, but there should be continuity between the cylinder head and battery(+). Is there a (nomally) red wire connected to the head steady by a ring terminal?

If so, check continuity between the terminal and the head, and also terminal to battery(+).