Crankshaft bolts

It goes with another one which are basically replica's of the bearings to check crankshaft end float which looks to be 0.013" at this stage, 0.002" either way should be fine.

Might be a daft question but I've not looked at the spec does the engine not get hot enough to break the loctite down? Which number loctite are you guys using doing my crank re assembly this weekend.

Thats a cool trick for the end float Time Warp.

Time Warp said:

It goes with another one which are basically replica's of the bearings to check crankshaft end float which looks to be 0.013" at this stage, 0.002" either way should be fine.

View attachment 19314

Click to expand...

Thanks - very trick!
I've always linished down the outer race of what I just pulled out - slides in neatly and hopefully not too much error.
I also believe in shimming the outer race from the case.
Don't want shims, inside the inner race, "slinging around" potentially damaging the crankshaft

I always thought blue loctite was the one which needed heat to get it to release it's grip. There was an aircraft in the RAAF on which all the fasteners had been done up with blue loctite . It made things extremely difficult. I think the safe way to tighten crank or con-rod bolts is to measure the stretch when they are tensioned to the prescribed torque for their diameter. It the bolt is metallurgically weak, it is more likely to break, but excessive stretch can be an indicator.

acotrel said:

I always thought blue loctite was the one which needed heat to get it to release it's grip. There was an aircraft in the RAAF on which all the fasteners had been done up with blue loctite . It made things extremely difficult. I think the safe way to tighten crank or con-rod bolts is to measure the stretch when they are tensioned to the prescribed torque for their diameter. It the bolt is metallurgically weak, it is more likely to break, but excessive stretch can be an indicator.

Click to expand...

From what I see on the Loctite packaging, both red and blue are rated to 300 F. I do know that Permatex supplies a high temp red thread locker rated to 450 F.

Ed

I know there is not that much interest in this sort of thing but have to say the new and improved main bearing shim making jig worked better than expected.
As a continuation from bolts.
I found the crankshaft end float to be more than expected and enough to require shims to fit in the engine case bearing bores.
70 mm OD x 58 mm ID using two mandrels and the front and rear of the main body.
A case of a quite a bit of time to make the jig and a fraction of that to make some S/S shims.