Agree, do not fool with asbestos. Some formulations are more dangerous than others - so you are kind of playing Russian Roullette. Smoking multiplies the risk.
Converting old style TLS to newer support plate type
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DogT
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This is from an old post from norbsa, I could not find it, it used to be post number 1656 in the old forum. I have the old link but it doesn't show up.
'So time for fresh Ferodo shoes. These need to be turned but no need for a lathe or hundeds of dollars. This is what I did it works well. Clean the drum with sand paper on the inside with 60 grit this knocks down the glaze and prepares the surface for rubber cement. Cut some strips of 60 grit the width of the drum, you will need to paint up the back of the strips with rubber cement as well as the inside of the drum. The paper needs two coats, let it dry and line the inside of the drum no gaps with 60 grit. now assemble your new shoes on the backing plate just like you were going to run it this way. You will need to back off all your adjusters but go ahead and hook up the cable. Ok now for the helper bikes on the center stand and the stands on a piece of 2x wood helper is on the bike keeping the bike on the rear wheel and gently applying the front brake you are on your side on the ground turning the front tire buy hand when your helper tells you the handle has touched the handle bar it's time to pull it apart for a check. When you get 90% touching your done with the sanding. You now need to sand a half inch of taper on the leading side of each shoe don't skip this step or it won't quit stopping. Now after you have got this done and every thing is clean and relubed don't forget to put a little grease on the shoes were they contact the cams, It's time to adjust the two shoes. Again you need a helper to get this right. The first shoe is the one that the cable pulls directly on and the second shoe is the one that is pulled on by the adjustible rod. You need to start by backing off the second shoe so there is no contact when the brake is on. Now hold the brake on with your hand and have your helper slowly adjust the second shoe till you feel the lever move just a little in your hand. This is critical and may take a few trys to get right. Each time having your helper back off the adjuster just a little while you take rests from holding the brake on by hand. Make sure that it's as close as you can get it re adjust and tighten everything, time for a brake in also critical. This is first gear work take the bike up to shift point and use the brake easy at first than harder and harder each time till your skidding to a stop. You are heating the brake up to very hot on this first run. Now let it cool down all the way and re adjust everything. I took mine apart at this stage just to clean out the dust and recheck the lube and such. With all the cleaning and fussing plan on four hours work and an hour of cool off time than another hour of cleaning and readjustment. The only time this system shows it's weekness is when your riding with bikes that have two front disk brakes and they are using them hard in their riding style. My brake will lock the front wheel at anything shy of 65 MPH if I really grab a handfull. I have left out some details on grease types and tighting sequinces to keep this shorter but you get the idea. If you need more info PM me.norbsa'
I hope he doesn't mind my re-posting this since it once was posted. It's pretty much what I did. It worked good enough for my casual riding style.
'So time for fresh Ferodo shoes. These need to be turned but no need for a lathe or hundeds of dollars. This is what I did it works well. Clean the drum with sand paper on the inside with 60 grit this knocks down the glaze and prepares the surface for rubber cement. Cut some strips of 60 grit the width of the drum, you will need to paint up the back of the strips with rubber cement as well as the inside of the drum. The paper needs two coats, let it dry and line the inside of the drum no gaps with 60 grit. now assemble your new shoes on the backing plate just like you were going to run it this way. You will need to back off all your adjusters but go ahead and hook up the cable. Ok now for the helper bikes on the center stand and the stands on a piece of 2x wood helper is on the bike keeping the bike on the rear wheel and gently applying the front brake you are on your side on the ground turning the front tire buy hand when your helper tells you the handle has touched the handle bar it's time to pull it apart for a check. When you get 90% touching your done with the sanding. You now need to sand a half inch of taper on the leading side of each shoe don't skip this step or it won't quit stopping. Now after you have got this done and every thing is clean and relubed don't forget to put a little grease on the shoes were they contact the cams, It's time to adjust the two shoes. Again you need a helper to get this right. The first shoe is the one that the cable pulls directly on and the second shoe is the one that is pulled on by the adjustible rod. You need to start by backing off the second shoe so there is no contact when the brake is on. Now hold the brake on with your hand and have your helper slowly adjust the second shoe till you feel the lever move just a little in your hand. This is critical and may take a few trys to get right. Each time having your helper back off the adjuster just a little while you take rests from holding the brake on by hand. Make sure that it's as close as you can get it re adjust and tighten everything, time for a brake in also critical. This is first gear work take the bike up to shift point and use the brake easy at first than harder and harder each time till your skidding to a stop. You are heating the brake up to very hot on this first run. Now let it cool down all the way and re adjust everything. I took mine apart at this stage just to clean out the dust and recheck the lube and such. With all the cleaning and fussing plan on four hours work and an hour of cool off time than another hour of cleaning and readjustment. The only time this system shows it's weekness is when your riding with bikes that have two front disk brakes and they are using them hard in their riding style. My brake will lock the front wheel at anything shy of 65 MPH if I really grab a handfull. I have left out some details on grease types and tighting sequinces to keep this shorter but you get the idea. If you need more info PM me.norbsa'
I hope he doesn't mind my re-posting this since it once was posted. It's pretty much what I did. It worked good enough for my casual riding style.
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I am happy to say all that brake shoe arcing is done for now (Some original 71 750 and 49 Sunbeam shoes are off to be relined though)
In the end I took a different route and ground the last 20 or so thousandths and then ground the leading edge reliefs on also.
Reinforcing plates might be fine but it seems shoes that fit is top of the list in a correct compound for the drum material but of course the proof will be in the stopping.
In the end I took a different route and ground the last 20 or so thousandths and then ground the leading edge reliefs on also.
Reinforcing plates might be fine but it seems shoes that fit is top of the list in a correct compound for the drum material but of course the proof will be in the stopping.
acadian
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In the process of rebuilding/upgrading my TLS assembly myself.
Turned up a drift as per the old britts site and installed the new short pivot pin for the reinforcement plate, I do notice the cams that come with the kit need a bit of shimming however.
While waiting for new shoes I bodged together a mandrel to mount the brake plate in my lathe, but I see that you've arced them in a mill. I had initially thought of doing something similar, by simply bolting the plat to the mill table with a centre bush.
Where, may I ask, did you find those sanding drums? Seems much more efficient than using a cutting tool (end mill etc.)
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I machined the drum from 6000 series bar to fit the collet holder.
It was finish ground with a stone @ #80 from https://littlemachineshop.com/
Its Australia so you have to do most things yourself.
#
Need new camshaft bushes and the same thing, machine something to line ream both in the same operation.
A day to make, 10 minutes to ream the bushes.
If I can be of any help just send me a PM........ There is a lot more to the brake thing but it has to be remembered there is no guarantee of even the axle being perpendicular to the backing plate (rhombus arced shoes) yet there are other area's where chasing toolmaker measurements is probably missing the forest for the tree's.
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