Confirmation of my Wassell ignition setup on N15CS

I have read the Wassell instructions carefully and set up my ignition. I have good spark at both plugs, but I have a bit of a doubt about the timing.

Given my ignition housing is in place of the magneto, I have set the rotor's indicator mark to align with the electronic unit's 'C' reference point (for clockwise) at ~30 degrees BTDC as per Page 1:

NORTON ATLAS | CLOCKWISE | 28/31 degrees fully advanced

Inside the housing, it seems the rotor's magnet should be dead on the unit's pickup when set to the fully advanced position, but it doesn't seem to be. There's a fair bit of distance. Just trust the instructions I guess, but it seems odd. Anyone got any insight?

Well, the plugs were dry so I tried a small shot of magic starting fluid on the foam sock air filter, and bam, fired right up. It was super tight after the rebuild. That was enough to wake the carb up. I took a quick blast to bed in the brakes and checked things out, no surprises, good gearing (very tall) and clutch, brakes are working fine. Won't idle well but that's expected. Oil is returning to the tank and can see vapor in the breather line - I put a clear PVC line on to verify that initially, will change it out for something proper. Very happy and answered my own question.

I never trusted the timing marks except to "put me in the ballpark".
I would use a degree disc and devise a way to pick up when the EI triggers, then set the trigger point to coincide with the degree disc at the desired advance point.

Slick

texasSlick said:

I never trusted the timing marks except to "put me in the ballpark".
I would use a degree disc and devise a way to pick up when the EI triggers, then set the trigger point to coincide with the degree disc at the desired advance point.

Slick

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Good advice. It seems to run quite well for the initial setting. I'll give it a go after I check a few other things.

First ride, hmm, up for first, eh? I was surprised at how well the clutch works as all I did was clean up the old discs. Shifts well too, so now I can say I successfully rebuilt a transmission.

You have to check the timing with a strobe lamp, like the instructions say, at the rpm that the instructions say.

Compression ratio, ignition advance and jetting are all in balance. As long as the motor does not miss when you ride the bike, you will not do any damage if the balance is slightly wrong. When I am in doubt, I always strobe the ignition. However do not strobe the trigger of the ignition system - strobe a degree disc on the end of the crank. If you are out riding and you have a miss in the motor, stop and raise the needles in the carbs one notch. Do not continue to ride, if you have a miss.

Yes of course strobing is best, and it shall be done. Per the instructions even! But first we must get zee bike fired up, no? And with a very tight engine, getting it to draw fuel through the carbs is no simple task. So magic fluid helped me past that hump and erased my doubt about timing. That was just one thing that came to mind when kicking it over, the lack of fuel was the only issue. I use a degree disc. It's a bit of a pain to set up on this bike, but it worked for static timing and will work for strobing.

Motor sounds good. Your motor "might be" easier to start with timing set closer to 29 degrees all in.

I never set the timing on my P11 with a strobe light. Always static. Same level of PITA with a N15 that uses the Matchless style primary cover. Commando owners will never understand. lol

Static timing a TriSpark electronic ignition with the Red LED that lights up when the ignition is at the firing position is much easier than the other alternatives. You could probably rig something up that is similar. I have no idea how to do it on the Wassell. Too lazy to figure it out.

Schwany said:

Motor sounds good. Your motor "might be" easier to start with timing set closer to 29 degrees all in.

I never set the timing on my P11 with a strobe light. Always static. Same level of PITA with a N15 that uses the Matchless style primary cover. Commando owners will never understand. lol

Static timing a TriSpark electronic ignition with the Red LED that lights up when the ignition is at the firing position is much easier than the other alternatives. You could probably rig something up that is similar. I have no idea how to do it on the Wassell. Too lazy to figure it out.

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Yeah thanks, I think it sounds really good. Could be at 30 degrees, could be 29. Hard to tell. I'm gonna fiddle with the VM34 Mikuni first, it's way too rich.

I took it apart and had to use magnifying glasses and saw that it has a 290 main and 45 pilot (and pilots seem to max out at 37.5 wtf). I ordered a variety and put in 230 main and 30 pilot, I think. I have the notes in the garage.

I looked at the needle jet, being a 159 P-2, and 6F15 needle with the clip in the middle position, which seems to be in the ballpark from the millions of opinions. Cutaway 2.5, middle of the pack. I think it should do OK and be tuneable. Eventually I want a carb that mounts to the flange, with no rubber spigot. I'll get there.

I may dump the oil and check the screens etc. I want to put a filter on, have a small screen type but there's so little room. Again, I'll sort it out.

Same here on the actual timing. Mine is probably in the 29-30 range as well. I'm fairly certain timing jumps around a little and is not 100% consistent on an old Norton anyway.

I've never had a single Mikuni on the Norton 750 engine. No clue what jetting works. I did have a single Amal on a Commando 750. Only thing good about the Amal was it had a tickler which made the engine easy to start.

When I had twin Mikuni carburetors on my 750 engine the only time the plugs looked really good is when I was able to get on the HWY and spin the motor up for a few miles. On in town rides with multiple stops the plugs always looked like the jetting was rich. The bike is still that way with the FCRs. I'd rather be a little rich down low in the RPM range than too lean up in the top of the RPM range out on the HWY.

Definitely do your oil and screen checks. I've found small bits of gasket maker in the sump screen after the first and second ride. Kind of expensive these days to check oil and filters twice after only a couple of short 50 mile rides, but I've always figured it has to be done.

I was able to get a spin-on filter behind and below the gearbox on the P11. Not sure what you have on the N15 space wise, but I'm sure you'll figure something out.

You have a great looking Norton N15CS with a safe front brake for some spirited rides. Enjoy it