Commando Cam Bushes

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Dec 24, 2003
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When replacing the two commando cam bushes, are there any special requirements ?

I have never replaced cam bushes before so any information would be appreciated.

This is for an 850 1973 model(not mine), so I need to get it right.
 
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Depends upon whch cam you have, the golden rule is that either the cam or the bushes must have scrolls in the bearing surface to allow oil to lubricate the bush/cam, don't know if there is a problem if both have a scroll but don't see why there would be a problem. As you have an 850 you should not have the additional problem with the thrust washers, on the 72 750s they had tabs which sheared off and entered the oil pump seizing it, on the 850 I would fit bushes with a integral flange so dropping the need for thrust washers, not sure but they may have been the std bush for the 850.
 
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Thanks kommando, but maybe I should have been more specific.

Can I just remove the bushes & replace with new ones ?
Do the new bushes need to be line - bored once in place ?

I need to know the details on the placement of the new cam bushes.

Cam & thrust washer is standard 850, I am not worried about any of that.
Cam has the scroll in it etc etc. What needs to be done to the new cam bushes, if anything at all.
 
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A buddy of mine who races a 750 engine in a featherbed reports on his site that cam bushes come undersized and require reaming.

FWIW

Chris
 
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Nortonfan didn't ask but what is the best way to remove the split bushing? The workshop manual doesn't cover this and with a lip on both sides it doesn't look like they can be driven out. Special tool?

Scooter
 

Ron Hulton

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On the timing side the bushings will slide out quite easily using a screwdriver and for the primary side i use a dremmel tool to grind 2 relief cuts full length of the bushing 180 degrees from each other . You can now collapse the bushing and remove it with ease. I have just replaced mine and did not have to do anything other than push them back in.

Line reaming will be tricky as you probably don't have the right equipment and would most likely make it worse than when you started. The original holes would have been line bored so you should be alright.
 
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Thanks for all your replies.

I have done the job & as Ron Hulton noted, it was simply a matter of removing & replacing the bushes.

Norton engines really are simple, nothing complicated about the bike at all.
I guess that is why I love them, we can do most work on them ourselves with a bit of common sense.
 

Ron L

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Scooter,
By split bushing are you refering to the MkIII right hand (T/S) crankcase bushes? It takes two, one on each side (P/N 065428). There is no tool that I'm aware of. I would use the dremel to grind a relief and collapse one side and then you should be able to use a drift to drive out the other.
 
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Ron

You're correct; the timing side 2 peice bushing with a shoulder or lip on each side. I've seen some pullers for bearings that grip on the inside but didn't think of using dremel surgery. Thanks for the tip.

Scooter
 
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