Clutch woes.......

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Surfdog

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Mar 1, 2010
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OK,
Clutch was working pretty good.
Easier pull since getting CNW easy pull clutch/pressure plate kit.
Put about 600 miles on it.
Out and about on sunday afternoon and felt a pop kinda and clutch lever went limp.
No clutch. Felt like the cable let go on first suspicion.
But the last 3/4" of the lever pull had tension.
Loaded the bike on the truck and got her home ok.
Upon removing the inspection cover the cable looked intact?
But the actuator was limp and loose. Moving all about in the mechanism.
I can't tell whats going on, but I thought I'd run it by youse guys to see if anyone has been down this road.
I tried to see diagrams of the actuator in my Shop Manual and Parts List on Old Britts, but i couldn't find any detail on it.
Thanks in Advance!
J. Doggg
 
clutch hub nut probably came loose. pull the clutch pack and have a look.

Debby
 
1) The retaining clip for the clutch spring has popped out of the groove in the clutch basket.

or

2) The circlip on the mainshaft behind the clutch has sheared.

Either should be pretty obvious when you pull the primary chaincase cover.
 
Ah yes, that distunctive "pop". Ever so slightly muffled, yet unquestionable.
99.99% Circlip behind the clutch, .01% Diaphram spring
 
Oh, I missed the part about the "pop". :oops: That does sound like a sheared circlip.
 
Yes, I have 2 extra clips I keep around, it looks like the most vulnerable item on the bike, except for the rider. Don't crank shaft nut down to 80# against the clip like they say, use about 40# and blue locktite.

Dave
69S
 
kraakevik said:
I don't use the circlip anymore--I just shim to allow the lands and grooves on the mainshaft to solidly locate the clutch center.


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos
Click to expand...

I wonder why Norton changed to the circlip, I know they had to redesign the mainshaft to make it work with the Commando clutch, but the Atlas system seems much simpler, and probably cheaper to make.

-Eric
 
Mmmm... wondering if a larger more robust circlip could be applied if the shaft groove could be turned to fit. Also turning down of clutch locating spacer may be required to compensate? I'm asking, if this can be done and maybe a worthy mod!?
Foxy
 
Foxy said:
Mmmm... wondering if a larger more robust circlip could be applied if the shaft groove could be turned to fit. Also turning down of clutch locating spacer may be required to compensate? I'm asking, if this can be done and maybe a worthy mod!?
Foxy
Click to expand...

There is a circlip on the 850 Mk3's starter idler shaft that is slightly larger that the clutch circlip. If you take that circlip and sand a few thousandth from the thickness it fills the groove and is slightly larger in OD than the original circlip so it fits snugly in the relief in the washer. It is much stronger than the original clutch circlip and I have been installing them for years with much better results. Jim
 
comnoz said:
Foxy said:
Mmmm... wondering if a larger more robust circlip could be applied if the shaft groove could be turned to fit. Also turning down of clutch locating spacer may be required to compensate? I'm asking, if this can be done and maybe a worthy mod!?
Foxy
Click to expand...

There is a circlip on the 850 Mk3's starter idler shaft that is slightly larger that the clutch circlip. If you take that circlip and sand a few thousandth from the thickness it fills the groove and is slightly larger in OD than the original circlip so it fits snugly in the relief in the washer. It is much stronger than the original clutch circlip and I have been installing them for years with much better results. Jim
Click to expand...
Would that be #15? part # 06-8072
http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html
 
Yes part 15 is the one. I stick them to a 1 inch square "sanding block" with double sided tape and work them down slightly on a stone. It doesn't take much. Just until they are a snug fit in the groove. Jim
 
Hey thanks guys for all the input,

Bike goes to shop on Monday for inspection.
When I had the CNW Easypull kit installed the circlip was replaced (maybe 5-600 miles ago).
I had ordered 2 of them, thinking what an inexpensive but important part.
So my ace mechanic will be installing the spare.
1. I'll tell him not to over tighten to 70ftlbs. and to only go 30.
2. I'll mention the '75 MkIII Starter Idler circlip as a possible future remedy (part # 06-8072)(ala comnoz)
Although I'll still have to order it and modify that part and hold it until next time.
I will post results of the exploratory and repair soon after mission accomplished.\

Meanwhile here is a shot of the Commando in the Wilds of Kauai, just off the side of the road awaiting rescue.
Clutch woes.......
 
Thanks for that Jim & Co, still wondering though if your trans was in pieces like mine, enlarging the groove to suit would be better?
Foxy
 
The groove in the mainshaft is cut before the part is hardened. I would be afraid of starting a fracture by widening the groove. I have seen them break off there anyway. Jim
 
Thanks Jim, I'll go back to your original recommendation and try the starter circlip.
Foxy
 
Debby was Correct in the analysis!
Clutch hub nut was loose.
What is the remedy so this doesn't happen again?
J. Doggggg.....
 
RED? Really? Hows about a tab washer, blue and 40ft lb's? But you're right, RED would do it.
 
Ha! I was right and RonL was wrong! (I don't get to say that very often)

I had one come loose with 40 ft lbs, a tab washer, and no loctite. I used blue loctite and 50 ft lbs and it's been good since. Red would be better, I think. Jim's starter circlip mod sounds like a good idea too. Then I suppose you could torque the nut a little more.

Debby
 
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